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Mod LEQ9558KQ1 won't heat at all. will tumble and otherwise run. Have multimetered ht element, 3 thermo's, power cord, 220 outlet, thermal fuse, and temperature switch. All check good (believe I checked the switch correctly). What else to check?

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After also checking the main selection switch (for perma press, normal, timed, etc.), which was also good, I finally started checking wiring. Found a wire burned in two. It was the red wire coming off the connections where the power cord connects to the dryer. Cut it, spliced it, put it all back together and it's now working as it should.

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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Samsung DV331AEW Dryers, Why My Dry it does not have heat?


Did you install the unit? Has the heat ever worked?

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Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

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Bosch tumble dryer, model wta 4100 , no heat, otherwise all OK


If the dryer isn't heating, check for a blown thermal fuse or a faulty heating element. Both components can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty component. Both components are located in the rear of the dryer. The thermal fuse is about an inch long and is usually attached to or near the exhaust duct. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Sep 12, 2009 | Bosch Dryers

1 Answer

No heat in dryer.


First, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Many things can cause this. From the most likely cause to the least likely:
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.

Jul 20, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Our Kenmore model 96292810 clothes dryer has stopped heating. What is the likely problem?


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer(If you have power, skip to the next possible issue)
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jul 18, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer tumbling but no heat....


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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1 Answer

Dryer does not heat up. MOD TEDS840pq1, Electric dryer


Ist thing to check on a dryer not heating is the voltage at the outlet. Make sure you have 220/240 volts. The dryer can run on 110/120 volts but won't heat. This can be from a bad breaker/blown fuse. On your dryer it is most likely the thermal fuse on the heater housing or possibly the element itself. If you have a voltmeter you can check each for continuity. The thermal fuse is a smaller thermostat at the top of the heater housing.

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1 Answer

Dryer tumbles won't heat


The problem could be related to one of the following; Not enough power from the house, a bad or broken heating element, a bad thermal fuse, or a brake in the wiring.

Solution
Check the house voltage for 220-240
Do a continuity test on the heating element.
Do OHM reading on thermal fuse.
Check wiring to heating element.

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2 Answers

Tumbles but does not dry


Check the thermostats for continuity. Also, check to make sure you're getting 220 at the terminal block. If you're not getting 220, it will run, but won't heat.

Apr 04, 2008 | Dryers

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