Question about NorStar T7316E Corded Phone

1 Answer

Assistant was cleaning phone and now Line 2 is on hold and we can't release?

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 52 Answers

When cleaning norstar phones" do not" clean phones with soap and water use a electical contact cleaner. With this problem I think you have one of the keys on the phone stuck down take and run your finger over the keys.If this doesn't work you may have to have the phone taken apart.If there is water in the phone use a hair dryer to dry keys.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

How do I conference call


You may download the user manual part 1 and part 2. The conference call instructions begin on page 51 of part 2.

Feb 20, 2013 | AT&T ATT-974 Corded Phone

Tip

Brake bleeding procedure (step by step)


Required tools and supplies:

Box-end wrench suitable for your car's bleeder screws.
(An offset head design usually works best)
Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding)
(3 if you are completely replacing the fluid)
12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing (sized to fit snugly over your car's bleeder screws)
Disposable bottle for waste fluid.
Brake cleaner.
One assistant
(to pump the brake pedal).


1. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir.

2.Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir.

3.Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process.

4. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver.
(Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)

This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential
cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

5. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) (Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw)
6. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best since it allows the most room for movement.
7. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
8. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
9. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly.
(Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand)

10. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times,
hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release
the brakes until told to do so.

11. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line.
The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor
as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes
until instructed to do so.)

12. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently.
13. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while
the bleeder screw is open, as this will **** air back into the system!

14. The assistant should respond with "released."
15. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
16. Continue the bleeding process until air bubbles are no longer present.
Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel!
Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats
this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

17. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front -
repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake
fluid reservior and Keep it full

18. When all four corners have been bled, spray with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag.
Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner
can make these parts brittle.

19. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel.
(Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.)

20.Road Test.

on Aug 29, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My back lights won't turn off on my toyota tercel


  • Push the driver's seat as far back as possible, allowing you to lay on the floor on the driver's side.
  • 2 Shine a flashlight at the top of the brake pedal stalk and find the stoplight switch. It will be a plastic cube either connected to the brake stalk or directly opposite the brake stalk, depending on the vehicle.
  • 3 Depress the brake pedal and feel where the brake light switch contacts the stopping plate, a metal plate in direct line with the stoplight switch.
  • 4 Feel for an open hole where the stoplight's plunger-style button presses. If a hole is present, you simply need to replace the rubber stopper.
  • 5 Press and release the plunger-style button on the brake light switch and ask an assistant if the brake lights are turning off and on. If not, the switch is bad and must be replaced.
Stoplight Switch Stopper Replacement
  • 1 Clean out any remaining debris left behind by the old stopper from the hole that the stopper goes into.
  • 2 Press the new stopper into the hole on the metal plate until it snaps into place.
  • 3 Shine the flashlight on the stopper and check that it sits flush against the metal plate.
  • 4 Press and release the brake pedal and ask your assistant if the brake lights are turning off and on.
  • 5 Replace the stoplight switch if the lights continue to stay on.
Stoplight Switch Replacement
  • 1 Loosen and remove the bolts holding the stoplight switch in place. It could be between one and four bolts depending on the vehicle.
  • 2 Pull the stoplight switch from its mount. Disconnect the wiring harness from the stoplight switch by pressing or pulling the locking tab and puling the harness away from the switch.
  • 3 Plug the wiring harness into the new switch until the locking tab clicks into place.
  • 4 Place the new switch on the mount the old switch was removed from and tighten the bolts with a ratchet and socket.
  • 5 Press and release the brake pedal several times and have your assistant check for proper operation.

Oct 31, 2011 | 1993 Toyota Tercel

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

jturcotte_1047.gif
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Have an 89 festiva changed 5 master cylinders and still cant bleed front driver and rear pass wheel and also changed distribution block 3 times. i cant bleed it rite from the front port of the master...


Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding
  1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
  1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
  1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
  1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
  1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
  1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
  1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
  1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
  1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
  1. Close the bleeder fitting.
  1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
  1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
  1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
  1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
  1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
  1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

Jan 04, 2011 | 1991 Ford Festiva

1 Answer

My clutch went out and i had a mechanic friend replace the part...its the part under the engine not the actual clutch but he cant get pressure back in the clutch and cant figure out if bleeding the system...


Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

Oct 27, 2010 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

New performance clutch, new slave cylinder and master slave wont go in gear, and when in gear and pressing clutch vehicle wants to go


You may not have got all of the air out of the clutch line Try bleeding it again. The sequence is as follows:
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don’t forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don’t introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits securely over the bleed nipple which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles.

Aug 20, 2010 | 1995 Eagle Talon

2 Answers

Having trouble bleeding brakes on my ford f150 4x4 i had to put a new caliper on left front.i bled the front brakes but still cant gmuch of a pedal.is  there a switch or valve i need to turn off so...


1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).

3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.

4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.

7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.

That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Ford F150

2 Answers

Phones will not release hold when picking up on a different phone


Make sure you have filters on the lines between your DSL and your phones. Use the line out from the back of your modem to split to your phones if you don't have any filters. You may have to take line 2 from the back of the DSL modem to send to all of the phones. This is usually a filtered source and should isolate your phones from the DSL. Put the filter on any other devices that are sharing line 2 too, fax, computer, credit card machine etc.

Jan 19, 2009 | AT&T 944 Four Line Intercom Phone

4 Answers

Hard reset HP H114/111/100


bought it from a friend and he forgot password too. how do i reset it?

Apr 17, 2008 | Computers & Internet

Not finding what you are looking for?
NorStar T7316E Corded Phone Logo

Related Topics:

66 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top NorStar Lands Phones Experts

george  peters
george peters

Level 3 Expert

860 Answers

kakima

Level 3 Expert

102366 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76848 Answers

Are you a NorStar Lands Phone Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...