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Should the feed table be parallel to the back table on a surface plamer

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The tables should be at the same height. you are going to be removing the wood from the top not the bottom. hope this helps you.

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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Delta tp 305 is sniping wood at both ends , is there a solution to this problem?


With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.

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Does the color of the surface of the ping pong table matter?


Yes. The color needs to provide a contrast between the floor and walls of the area in which you are playing. Traditionally, table top surfaces were green/ grey; however recently, a matte blue color became a popular choice because it is a good compliment to the red floor in most tournament rooms.

Jul 29, 2012 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

How do i level jointer tables to make them co-planer


I assume you mean that the two tables are not in parallel planes. No, I don't think adjusting the gibs is going to buy you anything unless they are so loose that the tables don't seat flat on the ways. If this is a very old jointer, and the ways are worn so they are no longer flat, then might have to regrind them - but that would be difficult. I would measure the amount of "out of parallel" that the tables are at different depth setting after tightening the gibs so that the tables are just a little harder to move. If they are out of paralell by the same amount at different table heights, then I would put the whole jointer (not the base of course) on a surface grinder and grind both table tops. Of course you would need a pretty big surface grinder, depending on the size of your jointer. Good luck!

Jul 20, 2012 | Masonry Tools

1 Answer

I have a Jet CS-13 surface planer. The cabinet version. The cylinder that holds the three cutting knives is not longer parallel with the cast iron table. I have tried adjusting the tilt for the cast...


Hello,
I am not familar with the Jet but have set up alot of planers.
-When you say cylinder do you mean "head" (a head is what holds the knives)?
-When you checked the head being parallel did it have the knives in it? If so it's most likely a knive problem.

-As far as the table being in a bind I don't know.

I would go to you tube and look up "planer set up" , I have viewed alot of there set up videos and they cover alot of the issues you are discussing. The wood whisper videos are a good place to start.

Hope this helps.

Nov 18, 2010 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

I have a 15in Grizzly planner that undercuts the last 2in and have to pull the board out.


What you are talking about is called snipe, so common to planers they named it. If you measure the distance from the middle of your cutter head to the middle of the out-feed roller it will be the same as the snipe. It's a deeper cut at either of the board end and can be caused by incorrect feeding or misalignment of the in feed or out feed tables, or an unnecessarily high setting of the rollers recessed in the surface of the in-feed table. Some planers overcome this with table extensions and you can try to adjust your rollers to get rid of some of it but I haven't worked with any planers yet that didn't have some degree of snipe. The best way around it is to leave your stock over length to allow later trimming. If you have to pull the board out before it clears the out-feed roller, it may be worn, misaligned or not turning under power enough to pull the board all the way out of the cutter head area.

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1 Answer

My fence is square to the table. How do I set the blade so it is square to the table? There is a 1\8" difference in the distance between the front and back of the blade in relation to the groove the miter...


I'm betting that the table isn't square to the blade. My Cabinet Makers Table Saw does the same thing - the top plate (the big heavy cast iron plate that weighs about 50 pounds) sits on top of the sheet metal box that houses the motor and motor lift. This cast iron plate is held onto the sheet metal box by 3 screws (usually).

Loosen the 3 screws and the cast iron plate can move around on top of the sheet metal box (the holes for the screws are large enough to allow 1/8 inch movement). Looking down from the top, you can rotate the cast iron plate clockwise and it will move the front of the blade closer to the fence and the back of the blade away from the fence. Counter-clockwise does the opposite.

For the best adjustment, use a dial indicator mounted to something that slides in the track of the table top. Position the dial indicator agains the blade and slide it back and forth in the track of the table top. This will accurately set the table top to the blad (so they are parallel within 0.0005 inches).

Then check the accuracy of your fence (sounds like this is good). Don't forget to check the alignment of your riving knife/guard & splitter to the blade (if it's off you can't feed wood because it will hit the splitter).

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Adjusting Blade/Miter Groove Alignment on 1950's Craftsman Table


Try using a 1/16 thick flat washer as a shim where the mounting bolts/trunions mate with table. 1/16 shim on front mounting bolt will shift front of blade over 1/16 or 1 on the back mounting bolt will shift back of blade over

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1 Answer

How do I align beds on Jet jointer?


i found on some jointer/planers that this problem, is the way its designed. you can adjust the two feeds close but not close enough. what your supposed to do is push the wood thru one side with pressure on top and side(right hand), then when it touches blade slowly but steadily switch pressure part on the outfeed side. when you think anout it you are cutting an L shaped notch(until the end) so you dont want the side to be exactly parallel. table top jointers are tricky to use.

Mar 13, 2009 | Jet Masonry Tools

1 Answer

Infeed Table leveling


Well, the infeed table is supposed to be lower than the outfeed table. This is how the jointer actually removes material to flatten a face or board edge. What is important is that the the outfeed table is level with the top of the cutterhead blades, so as you push material through the cutterhead, the outfeed table fully supports the workpiece.

The infeed table is supposed to be adjustable up and down to remove different amounts of material.

If both infeed and outfeed tables were aligned, no material would be cut (assuming the outfeed was aligned with top of the blades).

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