I have a problem with a timer switch connection wiring. when I try to replace the timer, because when I push the start button and it doesn't reply, so I knew the timer switch is burn out, the smoke is come up from behide the timer switch, cause I push twice the button. ok then I bough a new timer, but stupidly when I'm unplug the wire I didn't make any mark or I should take a picture while is still connect.. you know the wires colore red, white, blue, yellow, pink and more. if any one know how to connect or have any original picture please let me know. I'm really appreciated. you know is winter time in up north of Minnesota, and is pain in the a&% when you try take it to the laundry store.. once again thank you.
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Because your dealing with water & electricity it can be lethal to fiddle around inside. That said...
Washing machines are controlled by a master timer unit, usually mechanical, but rotated by an AC Clock motor. If the timer is not getting voltages to the various Switches around the "timer unit" or "clock motor" then the individual selected functions won't work.
Manually Rotating to a particular function then Activating the On/Off Push/Pull switch should start things happening even if timer motor is dead. So
If your OK with AC electrical goods then open it up.
Connection wires may have fallen off or something simple. A multimeter is your best friend here. Look for the big rotary clock behind the main control dial. Listen for the clock motor running. The main Push in & out Button is the On / Off switch. Check that its got AC on the input wire & switches across to the other wire when the knob is pushed in / out. This may be the problem...
You can always call an appliance repair technician!
Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace
Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start
circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker
if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block
finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding
firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in) to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram
What you have a single pole light switch you are replacing with the timer. As you say you have 2 black wires. One black wire is the incoming power wire and the other black wire goes up to the light. On a normal single pole switch is makes no difference which of the screws you connect it to. Of course with the exception of the ground screw. Tie all the white wires back together that are in the wall box and shove them to the rear as they are not needed to make this connection. The correct connection is to connect one of the black existing black wires in the wall switch box to the black wire on the timer. Now connect the other black wire to the blue wire on the timer. The red wire is not used in a single pole connection and is only used in a 3 way switch connection, so just put a twist connector on it and shove it back in the box. To recap, connect black wire on timer to either black wire in box. Connect the other blue wire to the other black wire. Do not use the red wire. Hopefully you did not hurt the timer by connecting it incorrectly. If it does not work after setting the timer up according to the instructions you have ruined the timer by wiring it incorrectly. Hopefully no damage has been done.
Hello there: Please try these things i have posted It doesn't work at allIf your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check
from the houseDoor
or selector switchPower from the houseIs there power getting to the dishwasher? This can
be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired directly to
an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall. But at least
check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.Door switchThe door switch is important because, if it's
defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to
remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the
door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.WiringOften the main wiring connection from the house,
at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the
problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not
the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between
the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the
timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using
the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.Timer or selector switchAlthough it's uncommon, the timer or the selector
switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective part,
because neither of these can be
Disconnect power to the dryer and remove the screws attaching the console rear panel to the console and pull the panel off.
Inspect the wires connected to the timer and ensure a snug fit connection. Clean the connectors and terminals then reseat it several times to ward off dirt within the connectors.
Reconnect power to the dryer and start it; replace the timer (part number 3398195 ) if the dryer still won't stay running. Unplug the dryer and pull the timer knob off the console. Remove the screws securing the timer to the bracket and remove it. Secure the new timer in place then disconnect the wires from the old timer one at a time and connect it to the corresponding terminal on the new timer.
Push the timer back into position on the console and secure the console rear panel in place.