Question about Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi there i had this problem check bar studs make sure there tight bar must be flush on chainsaw body not on stud flange if bar is on stud flange there is a gap so oil leaks out near sprocket and not in bar oil channel
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
I'm not sure there are any "endorsed" tuning specs from Stihl as weather, temperature, fuel quality etc all contribute to engine performance.
Pictures of all types are all over the web.
As for the carb tuning procedure, maybe I can help?
Start with fresh fuel, all filters clean, and bar and chain installed. Also, fill the chain oil tank with bar/chain oil and VERIFY that the chain oiler works properly.
Initial fuel mixture settings (the H and L screws) should be 1.5 - 2 complete revolutions counter clockwise from lightly seated. Sight the carb's throttle plate and adjust idle screw counter clockwise until the plate stops moving.(Throttle closed completely.) Then go back clockwise 3 complete revolutions. This will produce an acceptable startup condition on a HEALTHY saw.
Clamp the bar in a STURDY bench vise and roll the chain with the shank of a screwdriver to verify it is clear. BE SAFE!
Choke the saw and pull the starter rope until the engine "burps".
NOTE: If no burp after 6 pulls, stop! Something is wrong.
After the burp, set choke to half and pull starter until it runs. The settings I gave should produce a slightly rich condition and a slightly high idle. (Chain will be in motion!)
Blip the throttle trigger and idle it down just enough to keep it running during the tune procedure.
Step 1) Using the "L" screw (closest to the engine), turn it clockwise until the engine smooths out or possibly increases RPM. Back it out slightly until the engine has a slight "LOPE" sound to it. (Like a drag car on nitro).
Step 2) Accelerate the engine to full throttle and go to the "H" screw (closest to the air filter) and slowly turn it clockwise and note the RPM increase. There will come a point when the saw will "Top-Out" and loose power. Not even enough power to turn an maintain empty chain's RPM! Go back counter clockwise to the edge of that point, and counter clockwise another fourth (1/4) revolution.
Step 3) Idle the saw back down. Again go to the "L" screw and repeat Step 1.
Step 4) Repeat Step 2.
Step 5) Idle the saw down until the chain stops moving completely. NOTE: Don't settle for a "crawling chain" condition. If the steps above are performed well and all else is healthy, you should be able to idle the engine down to a ridiculously low RPM and it will not shut off.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
Stihl IPLs (exploded parts list) are propriatary, You can request one here: The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for fuel line routing and it is sketchy at best; components are listed but on multiple illustrations.
Typical Fuel System (Primer Bulb and fuel lines may not apply)
Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
It appears from the IPL and OM this saw does not have an adjustable oiler.
OM example here (2005 - may not be your saw):
IPL example here (2005 - may not be your saw):
I know you have done this, please verify whether or not you get the ooze with the saw running.
Oil System Plugged:
HusqvarnaUSA Contact Us.com
If you try the repair yourself it has an outboard clutch (oiler behind it), this will help with removal. Your IPL is also beneficial.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; black numbers on silver tag 90s; silver numbers on black tag 80s)
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
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