The dryer will operate ie drum will rotate go through the entire run but will not heat. The vents all check out fine and move air appropriately. The heating element was replaced with care but the problem still exists. It does glow during its cycle. The unit makes a funny noise when running but it isn't the normal solenoid clicking sound. This occurs when the normal solenoid noise should be occurring.
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Re: LGR5620KQ1 Dryer wont heat.
HI. The clicking noise you are referring to is caused by the sequential actions of the gas valve coils.These coils are responsible for the opening and closing of the gas valves. The absence of the clicking noise during the cycle will most likely confirm that there is serious damaged that has occurred in this section of the gas valve. These damaged coils will need to be replaced asap. Once replace, the gas will be able to flow correctly through the burner, during the cycle.
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Check the following:
1. Does it have 220 volts (yes it runs, but dryers run on 110 volts)?
2. Check the heating element and the safety thermostats located on the heat element canister. Low air flow from any restriction like lint build up or mashed ducting or blocked air exhaust vent cap can either trip the safety stats or burn out the element. Clean dryer and exhaust ducting thoroughly and replace bad parts before placing back in service. Poor air flow is the number one problem with "No Heat" dryer issues.
Check to make sure that your cycling thermostat is operating properly. Also make sure that drum is rotating. What it sounds like is that the machine has either an air flow problem or thermostat problem. Try running the machine with the vent off, only if it is electric, not gas dryer. Also check your blower to make sure it is tight on the motor shaft. That would impede air flow and cause overheating.
If your dryer still heats, but your clothes take longer than usual to dry, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks, clogs, or excessive bends. The following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This will eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. Exhaust ducting that runs to the attic is usually the worst configuration, because the air has to be forced up. The blower fan will meet more resistance and any lint that does not exhaust completely, ends up stuck in the vent. Water appearing in the drum is another sign that you have a clog somewhere causing condensation to develop.FYI: There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this is generally a sign that the heating element IS working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat.If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
check the thermal fuse on the top of blower wheel housing,also while your there take off the cover of the housing and clean all the lint out,if your fuse was popped the lint buildup did it,check outside and make sure the air from dryer is blowing out and is not blocked,if it is blow out vent line if it's a long run with a leaf blower,if the thermal fuse is good read out the heater with a meter and if that's good read out the t-stats
sounds as if your experiencing an air flow issue, check your venting.. it would be normal to see a red glow from the right side vents with in the drum( its heating up after all, and its merely a reflection form the heater located on bottom of frame, no way its gonna heat entire drum to "red hot")
If the vent is blocked, it will not stop the heat, it will only restrict the air flow.
Generally a couple of things can cause the heat to stop.
Either the thermostat or the element.
I would first suggest the element.
It may be fatigued therefore the internal wire within the element becomes fragile and eventually breaks down. Although it is an electrical item, it is mechanically built and can fail.
In some dryers the element is held in clips.
These clips can cut into the element.
The thermostat maintains temeperature but again, it is mechanically built and can also break down.
If you are not capable of inspecting or troubleshooting the internals of the dryer (i.e remove the cover and look for the failurer), then have it inspected by a repairman. There is not too much that can go wrong with a dryer. The most expensive part wuld be the motor that spins the drum.