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Frame has fractured at the point where the very long seat tube enters. Too much flexing of the long seat post causing excessive stress on the aluminium frame??

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Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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IM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT SIZE MY FRAME IS....IS THE SIZE ON THE FRAME SOMEWHERE?


Frame size is generally measured from the center of the crank axle to the top of the top tube or seat tube, but things have become complicated. More recent bikes have top tubes that are slanted downward and longer seat posts, so that a 21" frame today may be equivalent to a 23" frame that is much older as far as fit is concerned. See these links for more info:

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I bought a used Jeep Wrangler SE, but the seat is too high for me, even at it's lowest point because of the rubber squish tubing. Is there a way to take it off or where can I buy a new pole for the seat?


Try removing the seat post all the way and removing the squish tubing. Then put the post back in and see if you can adjust the seat low enough for you. You may have a bike with a frame that's too large for you, but I'm hoping that this will help. Good luck!

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I have 2000 issue rodeo flywheel cracked around center driving bolt are still in flywheel outside of flywheel completely separated what would cause this


too much vibration/stress on the flex plate.

many different things could have caused it,
incorrect torque on the flywheel bolts...
bad thrust bearing in transmission...
up to "you got the one lucky flexplate" that had stress fractures during manufacturing.

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Most Electra's use a 5mm Allen wrench to loosen the bolt on the seat post collar, once it is loosened (it doesn't need to be removed) you should be able to slide the seat post up and down within the seat tube. The seat post will have some markings on it about 1.5 to 2 inches from the bottom, this is the minimum insertion point of the seat post, do not pull the seat post out past those marks, it could break off. If the seat post will not go down any further, and it feels like it is hitting something, it is probably hitting a weld zone where two frame tubes intersect or one of the water bottle boss bolts. In this case it is ok to cut an inch off the bottom of the seat post so you can insert it further into the frame, keeping in mind that you cannot raise it higher now. Do at your own risk and discretion. Also rub a little grease on seat post to keep it from "sticking" inside the frame.

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Trying to remove seat center post out of 1949 harley electraglide


Look underneath the bike at the bottom of the seat tube of the frame. There is a nut with a special "washer" on the end of the rod in the "pogo stick". Take the nut off and the spring loaded shock comes out of the seat post of the frame.
http://www.bikebandit.com/1949-harley-davidson-fl-1200/o/m617#sch187019

Steve

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Hi, I can't get the cameleon frame to attach properly to the frame. It slides on and off, there is no click. The only thing I've noticed is that when we try and attach the frame the whit clips (that you...


The Cameleon base frame must be fully opened and the handle locked for the seat frame to fully engage on the posts and the white lock buttons click out to lock position. www,bugaboo.com/userguides has manuals with pictures if your unsure. If the frame still does not lock check the seat frame can side fully side down the posts and the stubs under the seat frame bracket can fit into the slots in the main frame hub. If this is fully down and seated then the lock buttons may be the problem. Bugaboo supply a small can of silicone spray in the maintenance kits that come with the strollers. What they don't tell you is how vital it is to use it regually on the main hub unit etc if you wish to get a good service life out of your Bugaboo. Give the whole area a good spay then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Don't use oil based lubricants like WD40. Check my tips section for more info.

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I am having trouble with my 1994 2500 GMC diesel... The Chassis seems to be flexing.... I am running a SnowWay Plow on it, the V blade, so it is a heavy front load.. Any idea where the flexing might be,...


You have a pretty decent chassis under there. I can't tell you if or where it is flexing but if you look at it carefully flex will often cause paint or undercoating to crack. Worst case is you may actually have some stress cracks in the metal itself making it even more obvious. No chassis is entirely rigid but they are not really designed to be front loaded with a heavy plow.
If you do find a stress riser, I suggest you weld a section of steel extending at least a foot before and beyond the fracture. That will spread the load a bit.
One other thought...If you are running with an empty box, you could be lifting the rear wheels off the ground. if so, get some weight back there.

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2003 focus 2.0L 14 spi EGR tube broken at exhaust manifold second time. anyone know what could cause it to do so?


Hello! This is a nagging problem...The tube is made out of copper and breaks due to flexing. It is to weak to handle normal stress...Replace and have it welded...Guru....Saailer

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I can't get the bike seat stem to come loose


I'm going to assume you that when you say, "bike seat stem" you mean "seat post". I'm also going to assume that the bike frame is made of steel and the seat post is most likely chromed steel.

What most likely is the problem (absent of more details) is that the seat post has rusted to the inside of the frame. If the bike is stored outside this is a very common problem on less expensive bikes.

I have never heard of a bike manufacturer putting any kind of paint or other anti-corrosion inside of the bike frame to prevent rust.

You can try spraying a little "Liquid Wrench" or WD40 oil on the seat post where it inserts into the frame. Let it sit over night and then tap it with a mallet to try to break the rust free. Use a pair of Channel Lock pliers to get a bite on it and see if you can twist it out.

On a steel bike the very last resort to use, if you by all means have to have that seat post out, is to apply heat to it, with a propane or oxy-acetylene torch. This will probably destroy the paint job and weaken the seat post.

If the bike frame is aluminum, you can get something similar to galvanic corrosion and this can seize the seat post in the frame. The remedy is the same as with the steel frame (but excessive heat and easily melt aluminum very quickly and leave a puddle of molten metal on the garage floor). If the frame is carbon fiber and the seat post is aluminum, carbon and aluminum don't like to touch each other and they will start a natural chemical reaction of corrosion which could cause the two to stick together (don't ever use a flame on a carbon fiber bike, it would be the end of the bike and just plain stupid). Anytime aluminum touches carbon or titanium an anti-seize compound should be applied to the parts.

Once you have the seat post removed, use your finger to wipe grease inside the seat tube and on the seat post before reinserting it and you won't have this problem again.

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My Sebo AirBelt K1 just stopped working


I work with a Sebo dealer (in the UK), where we repair all makes of vacuum cleaner. It's testimony to the quality of Sebos that in several years I've only had one of this model to repair (so my memory is somewhat sketchy). However, from first principles, the finger of suspicion points to two likely causes of this problem. First, the copper wire may have broken within the flex - this commonly happens where the flex is subject to both stress and tight bending, which is the two extremities (where the flex enters the plug, and where the flex joins the rewind reel). You will need a continuity tester of some kind to check this, of course. The flex may be visibly damaged, but often there's nothing visible externally. Second possibility is that one or both of the motor's carbon brushes is worn out. You will need to get them off the motor to check. Check both - they can sometimes wear very unequally - a new one will have about 2cm of carbon exposable, whereas a worn one can have nothing left at all. As for what's economically replaceable... it depends what you can do for yourself. In the UK a new flex complete with rewind reel will set you back about £45. However, it is possible just to wire in a length of new flex provided you make sure that any connection you make is good, safe and not subject to stress from winding and unwinding. As for the carbon brushes, in the UK they are about £5 each. For a complete new motor you'll not get much change from £100.
I hope this helps. If you need me to try again just post a reply, giving any more information you can, and I'll see what I can do. Good luck!

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