How to attach the metal spring and plastic rod back into the filter area
Hi. I was cleaning the plastic filter where the coffee grinds and filter goes when the spring and plastic rod came out. I am having the hardest time putting it back together!!!! Help me please! I need my coffee fix!
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Re: How to attach the metal spring and plastic rod back...
Wowserz, this is a very common problem for cofee drinkers, including me. if im right its the plastic part that is in between the mug and the filter. this is replacable, but if is broken off from the original place. no need for gevalia coffee maker people just get it for the free coffee.
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Yes, you place the spring into the tube at the back. When you replace the basket holder, make certain you reach in behind the holder and guide the spring into the proper place on the holder. (Otherwise the spring will be forced to a permanent bend and not work as well. Can't find replacements for this spring on Cuisinart's website).
As for why it pops out better now, when you removed the basket holder and cleaned it, you also cleaned the plastic guides on each side. In normal use, these guides acculuminate coffee and tend to get sticky or gummy. When the door pops open, the sticky rails grab the guides and slow the sliding action.
Cleaning them restores the clean guide rails to slide open on. (Next time you clean the basket holder, remember to reach in and wipe out all the inner parts, including the plastic rails that the basket holder slides out on. These get coated with coffee as well. And the place around where the grind basket fits over the ground basket. This area always gets sticky with old coffee. Just use a wet paper towel and clean everything. (But remember to be careful when you reinstall the basket holder so that the spring fits back properly.
What you will have to is to get another part( screw or spring ) from any of the authorise store that repair coffee maker or sale home appliaence arond your local area in other to be able to make use of the maker again.
The glass bead is part of the pressure system. It goes under the long tapered spring. The bead goes in first, then the small end of the spring, then the Oring goes around the spring on the plastic part of the head. Then the manifold goes on with the L shaped tube going towards the handle side. Hold down the manifold when you puty the screws in.
water in the dredge drawer is a sign of a coarse grind. The finer the grind the less water in the dredge drawer. Don't go too fine or you will be cleaning the brew head a lot.
There is a little cover over a spring. The loops of the spring go inside the screw that holds the cover. The spring ends are against the wall and a small pin connected to the button on the side. Keeps the button locked. Cleaning out dried coffee in the are may help and pam spray may keep it from sticking.
There is a lever in the back of the carafe area that pivots and controls a spring loaged valve on the bottom of the removeable filter basket. This lever breaks easily. Pull the filter basket out and you can see the lever hanging down into the carafe "bay". (assuming it's not broken off entirely).
When you pull the pot out during brewing, the lever swings forward and allows the valve on the bottom of the filter basket to close. This shuts off the flow of coffee to avoid drips. The plastic lever is held in place underneath the valve by two round tab "ears". One of these ears can break off, causing the level to hang at an angle. This means the filter valve never completely opens, even if the pot is pushed in all the way. During brewing, the filter basket can't drain into the pot fast enough and overflows.
I fixed mine by going ahead and removing the damaged lever and then wedging the valve open. The spring loaded valve has a little drip "Spout" which hangs underneath the filter basket that directs the coffee into the pot. You can push in on the back of the drip spout and wedge something into the two slots at the back to hold the valve open. This let the coffee flow freely during brewing.
Grinding coffee at a finer setting (stronger coffee) only speeds up the clogging effect it has on machinery. The finer it is the more it acts like mud. The oils in this mud cake dry up right after the water dries up (over night) and presto you have concrete! This concrete becomes to thick to clean, so cleaning with tablets has to increase dramatically if you increase the strength of the coffee. If you leave it strong clean it weekly. Normally you clean the brew unit with cleaning tablets every time you finish descaling. That's about once every 200-250 coffees based on the water hardness you set in the electronics. If you notice changes in the coffee waterflow speed it's usually from clogging.
If you're handy get your camera. Take pictures of every step you do. Remove the brew unit. Disassemble the left top section (2 screws holding the long pipe). It compresses a 1/2" long spring. It may get away from you so be ready for it. The spring attached to a half round plastic button (valve) that looks like a rivet. Clean all brown gunk from this valve and the housing and you're creme will return. While your in the cleaning mode remove the filter and clean inside under the filter. The filter is that round stainless steel screen disc with the phillips head screw in the center. All this is evedence that cleaning needs to be stepped up, good luck!
If you fill two esspresso cups at the same time it should be the correct size. But if it is weak, see below... For one cup, press the small coffee button to start. Press the button again when the desired amount of espresso is in the cup to stop the flow. if it is too watery but the correct amount see below.
If the espresso is too weak push the coffee grinds slide switch inside one notch finer and make another 3 cups. If the flavor does not get strong in 3 cups then there is an anomaly happening. The brew unit upper filter has gunk clogged behind it to a point where the pressure (230psi) of hot water trying to get through the gunk pierces a small channel through only a portion of the filter screen. All the water is running through only 4 or 5 holes in the filter screen. This eddy allows hot water to pass most of the grinds without extracting flavor. It's the same as if you clogged a sink strainer then pushed the blockage off part of the strainer. The water goes around the coffee not through it. The path of least resistance.
Remove the upside down stainless steel filter on the brew unit- Remove the screw using the allen key that came with the machine. It goes through the little finger nut on the top of the brew unit. Turn it counter-clockwise (lefty loosy) and the filter will come off from underside. The area behind the filter screen has to be cleaned of any coffee residues. Also check thew creme valve. It is under spring tension accessible from the top of the brew unit by removing two screws holding the long pipe on top. be careful not to let the spring shoot out and loose the creme valve. It looks like a plastic rivet on the other end of the spring. Clean out the entire channel by rinsing. Use a pipe cleaner for dried on grinds.
Note: the finer you set the grinds the quicker it clogs the filters. Increase the use of cleaning tablets when you grind finer coffee. A clogged brew unit is almost impossible to clean even for the most handy of people and the last I checked a new brew unit is well over 200 bucks! Good luck!
Make sure the slot between the grind basket and filter basket is clean and free of grounds - then inspect the area near the grinder motor - use the brush that came supplied with the Cuisinart to clean that area out. Once thoroughly cleaned, try one more time to Grind. Let me know if it works.
mazzers have 3 springs in grinder body, each one support for upper burr holder. check for them , if it is not the case than consider that the spring could come with coffee. often we see stones and metal parts geting between burrs. clean it again and look good for 3 springs , if they are in their place, close the burrs to finest than go back for half of circle and grind coffee.