Question about Frigidaire GLEH1642DS Front Load Stacked Washer/Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Frigidaire GLEH1642DS1
Check the thermal fuse, a small disc with two wires on it located at the top of the heater housing at the rear of the machine. If it's blown definitely check your vent system for restrictions
Posted on Dec 26, 2007
If you are trying to shut off the buzzer because it sounds constantly, there is a problem with the dryer timer motor, and that is an entirely different problem.
However, if you are like me and find it really annoying and loud - and are trying to disable/remove it this is how to do so:
Tools: #2 Phillips head, 8-10" long
#2 Phillips head, 3" long
Optional but recommended: Vacuum cleaner with flex hose. (Unless your dryer is new or you maintain regularly, it is full of lint that is a potential fire hazard - this is a great opportunity to clean it out)
Optional but recommended: Duct tape, the metallic sealing kind, not the elastic adhesive tape
1. REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL. TURN THE DRYER CONTROL TO TIMED DRY AND TURN THE START KNOB TO ENSURE THE POWER IS OFF (IF THE DRYER STARTS, YOU PULLED THE WRONG PLUG - TRY AGAIN)
Note 1: As you start removing panels, it would be a good idea to clean as you go, otherwise you will have a big dusty mess...
Note 2: As you remove the panels either screw the screws back in to where to took them out of, or screw them into the holes of the panels you are removing, they can get mixed up or forgotten easily...
2. Remove the 2 screws that hold the cover from the underside of the dryer tumbler (above the lid for the washing machine)
3. Remove the 7 screws for the tin sheet that covers the blower/tumbler motor
4. Remove the 2 screws for the front control panel with all the knobs for the washer/dryer
5. The panel can be lowered out slots on each end by applying some pressure inwards, then down. Mine was a little more difficult to remove because of all the lint/**** built up so I used a screw driver for a little prying action. If you try this, pry on a side the that is not exposed in case you cause any dents, scratches, etc... for aesthetic reasons.
6. Once you have the panel down, vacuum this area very well, there are exposed contacts and terminals here that will be a source of ignition if a contactor goes bad and there is a lot of lint build up.
7. On the left side where the dryer controls are, there is is a little black rentangular box with two wires going into it - mine was between the dryer cycle knob and the start knob. It is the only component on the backside of the panel that will not have a corresponding knob on the front of the panel. Remove the screw that is holding it in place, and pull it up at an angle to clear a metal clip that holds it in on the side opposite the screw.
8. Once you have the buzzer free, follow each wire from the buzzer to its termination point on the dryer cycle controller. The buzzer should have black a wire going to the "common terminals" labeled either B or C, the other black wire is for the switch terminal of the dryer cycle controller. There should be "female" connectors on the wires from the buzzer, connected to the "male" terminals of the dryer cycle controller.
9. Remove these female connectors, which will disconnect the buzzer from the dryer. Be sure that you do not accidentally pull off an incorrect wire - and if you do, make sure to reconnect it before removing any other wires to avoid confusion as to what goes where.
At this point, get a flash light and take a look around the inner dryer housing. With your vacuum - if you have a brush attachment, use it - clean out all the built up lint from everything you can reach, especially around electrical connections, wires, the dryer motor windings, etc... Take your time, do it right - you spent the time taking the thing apart, it will not kill you (and actually may save your life) to spend 15 minutes cleaning the inside of your dryer.
If you have some duct tape, tape the blower exhaust connections from the plastic blower housing to the metallic duct and the flexible duct. I also taped the plastic piece that the lint screen inside the dryer door sits in because the foam rubber stripping had come apart. There areas are the main places that lint escapes into the inner parts of your dryer.
10. When you are done cleaning, reassemble the dryer in the reverse order you took it apart in.
11. Once reassembled, plug the unit back into the wall.
12. Turn the dryer control knob to as close to the end of a cycle as you can, turn the start knob to start the dryer. If the dryer starts, then stops at the end of the cycle without a buzzer - you were successful.
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 27 inch
pull the control panel off and behind there will be a black box with 2 wires disconect them and tape them up . also the box does not come through the front
Posted on Oct 25, 2010
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