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Which blades are recommended for cutting light brass tubing ?

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Use a small tube cuter. / pipe cutter

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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GE profile side by side refrigerator leaking water from the bottom on the back right side at refrigerator tubing pressure connection. Model# PS123NGMD 88


Try tightening the brass fitting first. If that doesn't fix it, look at the tubing for the source of the leak. If there is enough tubing left after you cut past the leak then you can reuse the brass fitting and the tubing insert on the tubing. If not, then you'll need to get some tubing and a brass splice connector from your home improvement store to fix the problem.

Jan 03, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

`fix tubing that has leaked


The heat from the light bulb dried out the plastic hose on the dispenser. the tubing is 1/4 in and I used a brass compression fitting brass insert . I cut off the head of the insert so the tube was round and could be used to join a short piece of plastic tubing to the existing plastic tube in the door. Cut off the damaged section of tubing in the door and replace that length with new plastic tube. Push the brass insert halfway into the new plastic tube and then into the existing tube in the door. Route the tube into the original metal part on the door and it's done.

Sep 23, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Regarding: GE Monogram Cooktop ZGU48N4G The problem I have is that I need to remove the brass tubes that attaches from the burner base to the inside. The brass tube (Chamfer) bound up and broke someth


I have a ZGU375ZSD. Same issue. I could not get below. I drilled a whole in the side, and used a hack saw and tin snips to cut a much larger hole so I could get vice grips on the lower nut. I bent the metal back and put some metallic tape over the whole. I figure the unit is under the counter, and in my case on the back side. GE said it was not repairable, offered me a 75% discount on a replacement. I fixed for around $400 instead of $1,200 replacement. There really is not good solution.

Dec 13, 2012 | Thermador PC366BS Stainless Steel Gas...

1 Answer

How do I put a light switch on a extetion cord


You want a light switch on extension cord.
What kind of light switch do you have? You posted under GFCI device which is totally different than ordinary wall switch.
And what type of extension cord?
Add a comment with more information.

If ordinary light switch is installed on 3-wire outdoor extension cord:
Slice open the side of cord and you see 3 wires: black, white and green.
Cut the black wire in half and connect each end to brass screw on light switch.

If ordinary light switch is install on indoor 2-wire extension cord.
Look at plug and notice there is a wide blade and narrow blade.
Narrow blade is hot. You want the wire connected to narrow blade.
Cut that wire in half, but do not cut other wire.
Connect each end of wire to brass screw on light switch

If you want to install line switch onto indoor 2-wire extension cord:
Narrow blade is connected to hot wire.
Cut that wire in half, but do not cut other wire.
Open line switch.
Connect each end of black wire to brass screw. OR if no screws, then place cut wire in open grooves.
Tuck other wire into groove and then reassemble switch.

Jul 05, 2011 | Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart...

1 Answer

Just hooked up a U.S. General vertical 3 1/2 hp compressor and when I turned it on started to pump up the receiver. Between 40 and 50 psi the plastic tubing between the discharge line and the unloader...


Is it failing at the copper/brass fitting going into the tank (the tank check valve)? That area can be 250 degrees F or more during operation. Plastic, in my opinion is not acceptable here. I'd recommend getting some 1/4" OD copper refrigeration tubing and the appropriate compression fittings, and replacing the line.

Mar 14, 2011 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

(troy built rototiller) engine cuts out when engaged


If the unit is already warm and it is cutting out under load or as you apply a load then there can be a few things causing it.

1. Make sure the fuel selector is all the way on
2. If there is an inline fuel filter make sure it is good.
3. Try applying 3/8 to 1/2 choke and see if it works well at that point. If it does then the carb has debris in it that needs to be removed.


Carb work if needed.

1. Fuel selector off
2. Remove the float bowl by unscrewing the mounting screws and nut onthe bottom of the bowl.
3. Inspect the Bowl nut for obstructions of the 2 holes in the side if the nut assy. Clean if necessary.
4. In the bottom of the throat venturi there is a brass jet. Remove the jet with a flat bladed screwdriver and inspect the orifice hole making sure you see light when held up to the light. If you can not see thru it clean the hole out.
5. Before reinstalling the jet under the jet deepr in the venturi there is another BRASS tube about 2 inches long.... Remove that with a GOOD flat bladed screwdriver and make sure all holes are clean.
6. Reinstall tube and jet
7. Using something like a spray paint can lid under the bowl area catch the fuel in this process.
a. turn on the fuel selector
b. note fuel flow it should be at a fair rate.
c. GENTLY push the float assy up and note fuel stops when float is level.
If you do not get good fuel flow in step b. you will have to remove the float and inspect the needle and seat. Before you do that.. FUEL Selector OFF Remove the fuel hose to the carb and make sure that you have good flow as you turn on the fuel selector. If the fuel flow is still not good then there is something in the fuel line from the tank to the carb. via the fuel selector.
8. Install float bowl mounting scres and nut.
9. Fuel selector ON
10. Functional test.

If after all of this it still tries to stall under load the governor will need to be adjusted.

Thanks for using FixYa,

Kelly



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2 Answers

I sharpened the blades at the end of last mowing season. The next cut was very uneven, so I checked to make sure that the blades were installed properly and re-leveled the deck. The last cut was even...


The problem you discribe is the classic broken blade spindle or quill. The tube that supports the bearings between the deck pulleys and the blades is almost certainly broken. Look under the deck [mower OFF] at the piece right above the blade that is malfunctioning and you will probably find a bad bearing or a chunk of the tube that holds the bearing/blade to be missing. That happens when the blade gets 'wacked'. The outer edge is cutting too high because the belt is pulling the shaft toward the center of the deck. The quills are fairly easy to replace. Get the model number off your tractor before you go to buy the part.

Apr 04, 2009 | Craftsman 42 in. Precision Cut Plus 24hp...

1 Answer

Jammed cutting blade in cuisinart tube


Try immersing the tube in super hot water. The plastic might expand just enough to let you slip out the blade. Since the tube is dishwasher safe, there should be no harm. A little soap in the water might help it slip out.

Jan 29, 2009 | Cuisinart DLC-5 Food Processor

1 Answer

Grinder support


They range in blade composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality. * One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new. * TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades so TCT blades are needed on them. o Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth. o Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances. * Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts. * Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials, and masonry products like block or brick. * Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing. * Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut different width kerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path). These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and rabbetts, used for joining lumber. * Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.

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