Question about Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore 80 series top load washer will not drain and go to rinse

Our Kenmore 80 series top load washer is having the following issues:
- it cuts off at the 6 setting and will not go to the drain-rinse-spin cycle
- no other option on the washer works as far as wash cycle type
- the ONLY option available is the time selection of the regular wash cycle
- if empty it will fill and proceed to agitate but goes kaput when the timer reaches the end of the 6 cycle, no draining, no rinsing, no spinning, basically nothing else happens except for the timer switch makes clicking noises

Please please please please help me find a solution so that we can know if it is a self-repairable problem or are we better off finding a replacement. It is at least ten years old, but it has worked very well with no problems at all until just now. Any specific direction would be sincerely appreciated.

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Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or if the washer fills then stops, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Try the 'drain' portion of a few of the other cycles (heavy, perm. press, delicates) and see if it will drain/spin there. You can also try advancing the timer slowly through the 'spin' portion to see if it kicks in anywhere.

If it will rinse and spin in the other cycles, you most likely have a bad timer.

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The model number on top load washers is usually found by lifting the lid and looking above the tub.

The Fixya numbers are Stock Numbers. Series numbers (70, 80, 90) only designate the number of "Bells and Whistles" that a washer has and don't reflect the model number.

See the following for where to find the model number:

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: Following is the Sears site for Whirlpool (110.) models with your model number.

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and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf



It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
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Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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BAD LID SWITCH,YOU CAN REPLACE IT OR BY PASS IT,REMOVE THE 2 CONSOLE HEAD SCREWS ONE ON EACH SIDE,FLIP THE TOP UP,YOU WILL SEE THE LID SWITCH JACK,YOU CAN CUT THE 2 OUTSIDE WIRES AND PUT THEM TOGETHER WITH A WIRE NUT AND PLUG BACK IN,YOU HAVE NOW BY PASSED THE LID SWITCH AND YOUR GOOD TO GO-MIKE

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