Question about Whirlpool GS6NBEXRS Side by Side Refrigerator

5 Answers

Ice dispensing motor (IDI Motor) inoperative

I have a Whirlpool refrigerator with the Fastfill Dispensor system.

The ice dispenser motor (referred to as the IDI motor in the tech repair manual) has stopped working.

At first, it was intermittent. I suspected some part was freezing since I would wiggle the auger to get the motor to run again. Then, it would run off and on and finally just quit working completely.

Today, I removed the ice bin and plastic piece which covers the top of the drive shaft. Nothing appears to be frozen. While depressing the "door closed" rocker switch and activating the dispenser, the shaft did rotate a few times and then stop.

The "door motor," however, is operating properly.

All indications are leading me to believe a new IDI motor would fix the problem. Since this is an expensive part, I wanted some advice to see if anyone thinks this might be a "core board" or electrical supply, or any other common problem. Thanks!!

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  • flyabus Oct 02, 2009

    I already removed the coupling, spring, and shaft. Nothing appeared to be rusted together or frozen. But, thank you for your suggestion.

    I'm wondering how common it is for the IDI motor to fail on these refrigerators. It is only two years old, but we use a lot of ice. And, since the door motor is properly functioning 10 seconds and 1 hour after pressing the ice button, I'm assuming the overall logic is still correct.

  • flyabus Oct 07, 2009

    For anyone reading this thread with the same problem..

    I replaced the IDI motor and the dispenser works like new...

  • flyabus Nov 05, 2009

    Thanks. I don't know if you saw my comment above, but I replaced the ice motor and it works like new. Maybe we'll get more than 2 years out of this one! :)

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I had the same problem. GS6NBEXRS00 is 4 years old. Intermittently the ice dispenser would stall. Usually in crush mode, but occasionally stalled in cube mode. A sharp bang on the front of the door or the back of the ice dispenser from inside the freezer would get it working again for a short time. Went through the same steps you did. Replacing ice dispensing motor 2252130 fixed it.

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

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This seems to be a common failure. What is happening is the thermistor inside the motor is going bad. $100 fix for a $0.33 part.

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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  • johnny-metro Jul 05, 2010

    @bmathews2
    you can crack it open with a steak knife. if you position the knife on the perimeter seam and knock it with something working your way around the perimeter, it cracks the sonic weld allowing you to get inside. Unfortunately the thermistor (Vishay CM 307C 1170) is nearly impossible to source. I suppose you could fake it with a 250ohm resistor, but that might represent a fire hazard.
    I've seen the 2188860 motor listed as replacement item for the old one, haven't tried it yet, but it is cheaper.

  • johnny-metro Jul 09, 2010

    I received my 2188860 and in my case it is NOT a direct replacement for 2252130. I can shoehorn it in, but don't recommend this approach. Worse than that, even though it is made by a different supplier, it appears to contain the same circuit board with the faulty thermistor. :/

  • Tyson Fish Mar 08, 2012

    I had the same problem. It turned out that the thermistor was fine, but a solder joint on it was bad. I re-soldered and the motor works good as new. No money spent!
    Thanks for the post!

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Second auger motor on my Whirlpool too. Must be a poor design, or need a beefier motor.

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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Johnny-metro: This part (#2252130) has just gone bad on my Kenmore Elite for the second time in 3 years (fridge was new in 2007)! How did you know what was going wrong inside the motor? The ones I have seen have sealed cases and don't come apart for inspection. I'd sure like to be able to break the cycle of planned obsolescence on this part!

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Remove the ice bucket . Remove the 2 screws , holding the coupler on , on the door itself . Also remove the long shaft . The coupling is probably rusted onto the shaft . Remove the coupling , possibly with hot water or by tapping on a wrench , below the coupling on the shaft . When removed , a spring will come out also . Clean the shaft where the coupling goes , and put a light coat of grease or oil on it , so that the spring can push the coupling freely . Reinstall shaft , spring , and coupling .

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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