Question about Troy Bilt Tb70ss Gas Trimmer

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I need to replace the upper drive shaft. To do that it says to remove the spring in front of the clutch but i cant find it ?

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When you pull the shaft away from the engine, after you have removed the screws, hold the shaft in your hand and turn it upside down. The spring should drop out. If not, use a light that will allow you to see into the shaft and figure what you can remove the spring with. Good luck...Lee

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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1 Answer

Yamaha tdr125 clutch lever return spring


if the lever cant be removed from the external clutch shaft then i doubt you will replace the spring unless you remove the sidecasing !

Jan 04, 2014 | Yamaha Motorcycles

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I need to know how to replace the clutch in a 1993 colt vista


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Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista


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Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models


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Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

  1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
  2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
  3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
  4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
  5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.
  1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
  2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
  3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
  4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
  5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
  6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
  7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
  8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
  9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
  10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
  11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
  12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.
  1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
  2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
  3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
  4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
  5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

Jan 07, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

REMOVE 2009 RZT 50 VT CLUTCH


A impact wrench will do the job in 2 seconds.

May 07, 2012 | MTD LAWN MOWER PART # 603-04285 FRAME-RZT

1 Answer

My clutch went out just driving out of the driveway...although it seems like it isn't the clutch itself. There were no prior problems with it so I am thinking that it is something else. I can shift...


hi.

from your description, it sounds like the clutch friction plate has worn down and the grinding noise is caused by the rivets holding the friction material in place rubbing against the flycheel and the clutch cover.

i think that the best advice i can give you here is to find a mechanic who can do the job for you, or at least help you with the job..
i can understand that finances can be an issue, but changing a clutch is not a job to try with limited mechanical experience.
most clutch changes involve removal of the drive shafts (front wheel drive) or the prop shaft (rear wheel drive). then complete removal of the gearbox........ then the clutch cover needs to be removed, the clutch plate replaced and realigned. then it all need to be replaced.

i do not think it would be fair of me to advise trying this job yourself with limited experience, but if you do need to do this yourself, then i can only recommend that you get hold of a good workshop manual, that should have step by step instructions on the clutch change, usually with photos and diagrams.

i hope this advice helps.

Jun 20, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Front left tire is tilted inward and underneath the truck i found one of the support bars that run's across is broken off on the left side. I looked around the wheel and found that no metal was bent so...


General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Jun 27, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Troy-bilt tb539e head wont spin starts, and idles great but I cant get the head to spin


Since this is a split-boom machine, disassembly and inspection will be required. This unit has basically, 2 drive shafts and a clutch (up near the engine at the end of the engine's crankshaft). There is a drive shaft in the upper boom and one in the lower boom. Either the clutch or one of the drive shafts has malfunctioned.The string head SHOULD NOT spin with the engine idling. There is a centrifugal clutch that engages when the engine reaches a certain speed, in turn, it turns the upper drive shaft.
First, check the string head area for tangled string, wire, line or debris around the center shaft. Long grass can end up wrapped around that area and severely affect movement. Dissasemble the head and inspect. Make sure you can turn the string head by hand. If so, good/
To inpect lower drive shaft, just uncouple it from the upper one. Grasp the end of the driveshaft and turn it. Does it feel OK? Does the string head turn when you turn the drive? If not, you at least have a problem in the lower boom. If all is well, then proceed to inspect the upper boom.
Unscrew the main (uppper) boom from the front of the engine. If you can remove it out of the clutch drum and off then you will be able to inspect it. If the throttle cable and/or wires from the STOP switch are restricting you, you will need to remove the throttle cable from the engine's carburetor and try to get some slack in the switch wires. Those wires go to the ignition coil module under the engine cover.
When you have the upper boom off and can access the drive shaft, turn it to check it. Make sure the other end of it turns. If both drive shafts check out OK, then the clutch will need to be inspected. Post back if needed.

Oct 26, 2010 | Troy Garden

1 Answer

Prosedure on how to fix if the uper flex rod goes out it does not spin when motor running


The problem with your upper drive shaft may be clutch related. Here is how to get to the clutch to inspect it and the clutch drum that drives the flexible drive shaft.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next.It should have some play in it, but not a lot. See if it spins freely. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. If you get the drum off, inspect the clutch. The clutch pads should be uniform with no nicks, cuts or scorch marks. Check the plastic housing on the tube. It should not have score marks either. Next, if needed, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face, Use some lithium based grease to lubricate the upper and lower flexible drive shafts. Post back if needed.

Oct 25, 2010 | Troy Bilt Tb70ss Gas Trimmer

1 Answer

When I turn sharpling left or right(like parking) there is a binding noise ,but not driving straight or normal speeds. 0there is a binding


this is a verry common problem with the awd bravada a tsb was sent out telling you to change the transfer case fluid to gm tract 2 fluid well let me tell you my story first i am a mechanic of 40 + years i have a 2000 bravada awd i changed the fluid 2 times like the tsb says no fix got a low mile used transfer case instaled it put the trac 2 fluid in it no fix replaced the awd module no fix so i decided to take my old transfer case apart and see what makes it tick i found out that a spring pushes the clutch fork to disingage the front drive shaft clutches the encoder moter applys the fork sending power to the f drive shaft the spring was weak and did not disingage the cluch pack THIS IS AN EASY FIX but you should replace the fluid first if it remains the same then remove the plug in the bottom and i mean the bottom of the transfer case cant miss it it looks like a tall bolt when you remove the plug a spring will come out with it i shimed my spring about a 1/4 inch PROBLEM GONE i tested this on my old transfer case on the bench first and it worked fine i also tryed streching the old spring that did not work maybe replacing the spring with a new one might also work also i would think a new encoder motor might return to rest easer then an old one this spring is what returns the encoder motor and pushes the clutch pack to 2wd

Dec 16, 2009 | 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

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