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Try loosening both top and bottom tension. while longer stitches are easier, it can be done on shorter stitches as well. A bennifit to shorter stitches is the gathers will be smaller and easier to work with! Remember to reset the bobbin tension before sewing again.
6.5fps is only the manufacturer's indicative maximum. The camera will not always perform at this speed when conditions aren't suitable (too dark, for example). In Sports Mode, the camera decides the correct shutter speed for that scene. If it's not a very bright day, shutter speed has to be lowered (slow) to compensate for the lack of light. This results in a lower frame per second.
If you want to test the max fps, set your camera on Tv, and set the speed to 1/1000+ on a bright sunny day. Set the Drive Mode to AI Focus or AI Servo. If at 1/1000th of a sec, the Aperture value blinks in the viewfinder, you don't have enough light. Increase the ISO. You should be able to achieve 6.5fps. That's my experience anyway. Good luck.
The tv has 2 focus adjustments for each tube, mechanical and electrical.
1. Mechanical focus is set by looking at screen from back (through inspection plate on back of most samsungs) and rotating the lens assembly on CRT. loosen wing nut and turn lens assembly to go through focus and back to best position.
Put convergence pattern on screen and manually misadjust bottom red and green lines convergence so they can be seen through inspection hole.
With back cover of TV off you can usually reach your hand up beside the lens assembly to loosen the wing nut then rotate to adjust. Green is in the middle. The focus will be obvious when you rotate and look
When you are finished make sure the foam dust protector is not over any of the lens assemblies and the wing nut is tight.
2. Electrical focus - located at front of unit. the front grille/speaker cover is removed and maybe a cover over the front crt inspection hole.
In the inspection hole there is a black plastic "Focus/screen adjust Assembly" with 2 rows of 3 controls.
One row is focus and the other is screen. The middle controls are for green with R/B on either side. Usually the controls are labelled as "focus" and "screen". You want to adjust the focus controls, one for each color. Look for the focus or screen label imprinted in the plastic. Don't play with the screen settings.
With the same misadjusted convergence pattern you can see a red, blue and green line. Adjust green focus and watch green line for best focus. Do same for other 2.
Screen adjustments are very exact and delicate. The easiest way to deal with them is to turn color off in Customer adjust menu. Put any color tone adjustments in the middle (low, med, high, put at med).
You should have a b/w picture if there are no crt or other color related faults. If it is close to B/W leave screens alone.
If the pix is too green, then the green screen setting must be reduced a small amount. Do not play with these adjustments as most TV repairrers have a difficult time adjusting them.
If focus adjustments don't help then focus control or CRT may be defective. Needs expert to determine.
Depending on how long you have had the camera - Nikon may come up with a free solution.
Contact Technical Support at Nikon.
The auto focus is not functioning as it should.
Do make sure you are not covering any 'Windows'
on the front of the camera when taking, shots.
re you sure the out of focus condition is due to the actually focus or do to motion blur? I think the 3100Z in auto and flash on will set the shutter speed fairly low like 1/30th of a second for wide angle and 1/90th for full telephoto. This may not be fast enough to avoid motion blur. I would suggest using manual mode and shutter priority and set the shutter speed to 1/100th of a second. This won't effect the flash output but will reduce the amount of ambient light being captured which could cause long range shots to become darker in the distance. Name of the game, don't be afraid to take it off auto mode and experiment with manual setting.
The two pictures were shot at dramatically different exposures - the "dark" one at 1/1600 shutter speed, f7.3, the "light" one at 1/320 shutter speed, f4.0. This accounts for the great difference, as the exposure conditions for the "light" one allowed much more light into the image during the exposure period. You didn't tell the whole story of how you set this up, I think you were shooting in a "spot" metering mode, where the particular exposure conditions the camera uses would vary considerably whether you were aiming at a dark area (making the picture light) or a light area (making the picture dark).
I would make two recommendations: Switch your metering mode to "center weighted" (the mode labeled "[(•)]"), and also change your ISO setting to AUTO, as there would be no reason for shooting these photos at ISO 200 that I can think of.