Question about Washing Machines
Top load washer does not stop filling with water
A machine that overfills or underfills can often have a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the plastic tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to shut off the water. Make sure there is no damage to or obstruction in the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a bad switch. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
My ge washer top loader overfills with water
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
your pressure switch may not be faulty take your lid off the pipe that goes into your pressure switch which should be located to the right handside blow into the pipe which should re-pressure rise it
Posted on Aug 13, 2007
SOURCE: washer does not fill
Firstly, check to see that your water temperature is selected properly. Next, check to confirm water supply to the washer is adequate, both HOT and COLD. If confirmed, try replacing the fill valve.
Posted on May 27, 2008
SOURCE: my washer won't stop filling
I have a Maytag that had that problem. Mine has a plastic tube inside of the machine that connects to a sensor. As the water level rises, some of it goes into this tube creating air pressure on a sensor that signals the machine that the water is at the selected level. The bottom of the tube had come loose and just needed to be put back onto the fitting. I accessed this tube by lifting the top of the machine, and it is in the back. Very easy to get at. I hope this works for you.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Check lid switch. Most will not run with lid open and the switch may not be pressed down when door is closed
Posted on May 17, 2009
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a symptom of a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
If the lid switch is found to be defective, it can be purchased at any of the following websites:
The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.
This is a very simple repair, but if you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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