I have a Roland FP-G8 digital piano and I have a white key and several keys to the right I also have a black key that won't come back up by themselves. I don't know really how to get into the area I need to fix the problem. Can anyone tell me how to get inside the machine where I can see what's going on & hopefully correct the problem? I don't want to take a chance on messing anything up.
Re: Key won't come back up on Roland digital piano
Roland FP is a nice keyboard but has a known problem on cracking key weights. There is a counter weight under each key to push the key upward. There are two sizes of weight beams, longer one for white keys and shorter one for black keys. Roland did not make the original weight beams strong enough to last. They will crack and eventually break. When it happens, the key will stay down. Fortunately, they can be easily replaced.
Roland FP-8 has 4 black screws at the bottom on each side end. Remove the screws, flip the ends up and expose the interior. Near the hinge of the problematic key, carefully ply open the hinge tabs and remove the key from the hinge. You will find a weight beam under the key. Remove and inspect the weight. There should be a metal wrapped in a plastic beam. If the metal part is missing, find the missing part and replace with a new beam. You can order weight beams from Roland. It costs about $10 each plus shipping. Put everything back in the reversed order.
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Re: Key won't come back up on Roland digital piano
If these use the silicone rubber/conductive rubber contact types common to some synths, the parts may have deteriorated.
You will have to open the unit to evaluate. Usually there are screws from the bottom.
I suggest getting a little partioned plastic box to put them in and mark the type at each one you remove. SOMETIMES there are different lengths and threads and you can damage the unit by putting wrong ones back.
Often the covers lift off the units BUT may have cables between upper and lower. Suggest you have a large area you can flop the top over if it is still connected.
The key is to NOT force any of the plastic cases. If you can't find remaining screws, rub over labels and look for "hidden ones".
Then look for plastic snap tabs holding any remaining points.
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On the rear of the piano there will be two 1/4" jacks labeled Output Left and Right. One will be labled Mono as well. If you are using a stereo amp, use both, and if a mono amp use just the mono output. If your amp is a guitar type, connect a shielded cable with 1/4" phone jacks such as you'd use with an electric guitar from these jacks to your amplifier. If you are useing a home stereo amp, you will need a cable with 1/4" phone jacks from the piano to RCA phono jacks on the amp end.
Yamaha FC4 and FC5 sustain pedals are normally closed, sorry Fred. Roland is opposite. I suspect the P120 just needs to be reinitialized. Hold down top white key (C) while turning on power. Wait 3 seconds and then release white key. Should now be reset to factory spec. Always plug the pedal in before you turn it on. If it still doesn't work check it with a meter.
Yep... Roland pedals are reversed, that is, normally closed contacts. Unlike some Yamaha keyboards, the Casio doesn't have an inversion function available. You have two choices to solve this: 1. Buy a pedal with the corect sense 2. Open the Roland pedal and MAYBE with a soldering iron you can move a wire to select a contact with the opposite sense.
The key contacts have gotten dirty or worn. Most Roland keyboards use conductive rubber contacts that are pressed against circuit traces underneath the keys. These can often be cleeaned to restore operation, but this is not a DIY type project. The cost of repair probably exceeds the value sorry to say and parts may not be availablle... In this case I would probably recommend you get a newer unit as they have many decent synths now for a little over $100 and repair would likely be several times that. Also look at the used market and MANY thrift stores have units... make sure you test any for operation before buying. If one can afford $250, here is a candidate with 76 keys: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/keyboards-midi/yamaha-ypg-235-76-key-portable-grand-piano-keyboard Also you can search Ebay but do be careful of used items that have no guarantee.
One of the lines in the keyboard scanner has opened up. I have an idea what it might be and it is a nasty problem involving circuit traces that are silver conductive paint on a plastic insulating base that separate from a jumper at each end of the strip that the key contacts are made by conductive rubber pills pressed down by the keys. The contact of the flexible circuit under the keys to the jumper cable can be broken by vibration. I have an EPS7 with the problem and other than replacing the whole contact strip under the keys it really has no easy solution.You should probably have a Roland shop look at this problem. If your unit has this same arrangement it is repairable only by replacing the whole key contact strip.
Did you ever get hold of an FP-8 service manual? The weight replacement is relatively simple: The case opens by removal of eight screws, four at each end on the underside. The top then hinges up. Keyboard assembly is removed by first unplugging the two white ribbon connectors at the center, then removing the screws at the front edge (underneath) and the screws (gold) at the back of the assembly (accessible from the top). Keys pop out by spreading the two "wings" at the pivot point, and then the weights (Roland calls them "hammers") lift out. Roland will sell you new ones, but I have no idea whether the replacements are any better than the originals. I've done two of these pianos so far, and have a third waiting to be worked on. I do have a service manual, but I think I downloaded it freebee somewhere.
The other failure mode on this piano is the electolytic coupling caps on the output board - I've replaced all of them on both pianos - don't remember the value offhand.
It sounds as if the membrane under the key needs to be replaced. It can be done with some careful work yourself but you might want to consider having it serviced by a Roland dealer as apparently the parts are becoming scarce. Hope this helps.
It's not really for the faint of heart, but generally this is caused by gunk getting into the key circutry. Underlying the 3000's keyboard is a silicone pad with 2 contacts on it, the measurement between each being hit is the issue usually but yours just sounds like there's something in there causing a physical or contact obstruction.
What you really want to do is to remove the keys and clean everything but this isn't easy... You could try using 99% alcohol (from a pharmacy) to clean inside it which may well help you.
Which may help you work out how to do the disassembly if you are brave, but I would start with pouring some alcohol in and poking it and hoping for the best 1st. It sounds crude, but it works amazingly well with some things.