Question about Ovens

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The power went out and now the oven display and controls do not light up therefore oven doesn't work but elements do...where are the fuses?

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Found the manual

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Kenmore oven won't work


1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


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Apr 21, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Whirlpool oven display inop after oven control board replaced



Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


Oven Won Turn on
http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Feb 19, 2014 | Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Jenn air gas oven won't light off/heat up


Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. you have a electric oven or a gas oven that won't heat or doesn't heat properly, here are some things you will need to check. The most likely cause of a oven not heating correctly is a defective heating element. You have two types of heating elements in your oven. The bottom element(s) are the baking elements. The element(s) on the top are the broil elements. If you don't see the bright red glow from the element, chances are they are not working or not working correctly. If a heating element is bad, you need to replace the entire element. If your oven is warm and not correctly hot, one of the elements may be bad. In most ovens, when you preheat, both elements are used. This would make the oven to appear like it is working correctly but it is not. If the elements are not working, they might not be getting power. Test the wires to the elements with a voltage meter to make sure they are getting power before you decide to change them out. Many electrical ovens have a sensor that monitors the oven temperture. Ovens that have this sensor usually contain a digital display on the oven. The sensor could be defective. Those without the sensor use the basic mechanical system to control the oven temperature. You also want to check the thermostat sensing bulb. Make sure the bulb is good and has not come loose. Now, if you have a gas range oven that doesn't heat properly, first, you want to check your bake igniter. It may have burned out or it could be not working properly. It will be located near your burner. It is also possible that you are not getting gas to the burner. If so, it may be the gas safety valve or the igniter. You need to check your selector switch and thermostat as well. They may be defective. Always make sure you test the parts for power with a voltage meter of some type before you decide to change the part. If you have a part that appears to not be working, it may not be getting power because of a bad wire or broken connection.

Jun 13, 2011 | Jenn-Air Ovens

1 Answer

Hi i have a Samsung oven bf641fst the light and fan come on but the heat side wont work and the led sceen is blank?


Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. you have a electric oven or a gas oven that won't heat or doesn't heat properly, here are some things you will need to check. The most likely cause of a oven not heating correctly is a defective heating element. You have two types of heating elements in your oven. The bottom element(s) are the baking elements. The element(s) on the top are the broil elements. If you don't see the bright red glow from the element, chances are they are not working or not working correctly. If a heating element is bad, you need to replace the entire element. If your oven is warm and not correctly hot, one of the elements may be bad. In most ovens, when you preheat, both elements are used. This would make the oven to appear like it is working correctly but it is not. If the elements are not working, they might not be getting power. Test the wires to the elements with a voltage meter to make sure they are getting power before you decide to change them out. Many electrical ovens have a sensor that monitors the oven temperture. Ovens that have this sensor usually contain a digital display on the oven. The sensor could be defective. Those without the sensor use the basic mechanical system to control the oven temperature. You also want to check the thermostat sensing bulb. Make sure the bulb is good and has not come loose. Now, if you have a gas range oven that doesn't heat properly, first, you want to check your bake igniter. It may have burned out or it could be not working properly. It will be located near your burner. It is also possible that you are not getting gas to the burner. If so, it may be the gas safety valve or the igniter. You need to check your selector switch and thermostat as well. They may be defective. Always make sure you test the parts for power with a voltage meter of some type before you decide to change the part. If you have a part that appears to not be working, it may not be getting power because of a bad wire or broken connection.

May 31, 2011 | Viking VESO176 Stainless Steel Electric...

1 Answer

Whirlpool gdb307 oven display not working after storm


Some things to consider:

1. There are two thermal fuses on this unit
- one fuse is in the bake/broil element circuit and if blown, would cause no-heat but the display would still light.
- the other thermal fuse is in series with power to the control board, if blown the control board display would be dark and no oven related functions would work

2. There is a low voltage transformer that supplies power to the control board that sometimes gets damaged by lightning surges. This would also cause the display to be dark with no oven functionality.

3. We repair a number of these control boards that are damaged by lightning storms. Here's a link to a related article that might be helpful:

//www.fixyourboard.com/techzone/ovens/e6_f2/e6_f2.html

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

Mar 03, 2010 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

4 Elements and Oven not working


If there was a power surge when the power went out or came back on, it could have fried the controller.

Jan 16, 2009 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Whirlpool electric oven problem


thermal fuse to board blows, relays turn fans off, the thermal cut out on rear of oven kills element. change both fuses, install new style oversized blower.

Sep 22, 2008 | Ovens

2 Answers

Electric surge turned off the clock,oven but the stove top works


The clock and display are leds, right. If you can remove the panel where the board is and gain access to the back of it, look for a fuse, similar to a car fuse. The elements are controlled by manual independent switches, that's why they are working. If there is no fuse, or its still good, look for a burnt wire of some sort back there, as you said a power surge went through it.

Feb 19, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Wall Oven No Power


yes the oven thermal fuse blew when the fan went off its also called a tco switch if you pull out the oven and take the top off there will be a tech sheet there that will give the location of the tco some are on top some are on back this can also happen if the oven is too tight in the cabinet not enough room around it to let the heat dissipate its a round metal disc with two wires on it

Jan 30, 2008 | GE JKP30WMWW 27" Built-in Single Electric...

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