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I have a DCS stove, Model # DCS-RG-304 which is approximately 10 years old, uses natural gas. Burners and broiler ignite and function properly but recently the oven does not ignite/heat. suggestions on what part could be defective and any tricks involved in replacing it.

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  • skimmins Oct 01, 2009

    Thanks, it looks good. I called the DCS parts supply company and spoke to a rep who advised me after explaining the condition, advised me that he was certain it was the ignitor, "we ship these out all day long", FYI: cost $79.00

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HI. This will most likely be a defective or damaged ignitor. I would also advise to inspect for damaged gas valve coils as well. A damaged coil will click repeatedly. The ignitor can be inspected visually, and physically with a multimeter. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark(depending on model). If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.





When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven will not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles(Glow bar). If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.
If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve will not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.
A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

  • -- defective thermostat
  • -- defective selector switch
  • -- defective gas safety valve
  • -- defective gas vaklve coils


There are no tricks when installing or replacing this part. Its straight forward. There should be a kick panel in front of your unit and on the lower back side as well. Use these entry points to extract and replace if necessary.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Oct 01, 2009

    IGNITOR TEST PROCEDURE




    Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

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