Replace the ice maker . You can take a lot of time , measuring continuity , ohms , voltages , etc , but if you just replace the icemaker , jobs done .
I am not sure the thermostat is the problem it may be but not for the force feed you have arm that pull up after the box is field and when you use the ice the arm go down and the maker make more ice and push it to the box if the arm stuck up the ice will not get pushed to the box so the issue may be related to the arm that force the ice in you may try looking at the arm and see if the ice will come to the box by manually putting the arm down and see what will happen then we can go to the next step, remind you that we can not see any information that passed between you and other techs....let me know if that work for you and please do not forget to rate my service so I am able to continue providing same...god bless
1 thump not related
2 thump related but no recommendation
3 thumps related worked some issues
4 thumps related worked all issues and satisfied
Double check the thermostat. It is an high limit. By the way if it has continuity at room it should work. if it does not open at critical temp, it will just melt cubes too much.
Check also wiring harness inside icemaker, it should be part 20 on diagram below.
If you do not find anything wrong, then it can be a mechanical problem, for example the ejector may be jammed.
At that point the choices are disassemblying or buyng a whole replacement assembly.
By the way, you do not need to replace the whole icemaker, you can replace the molding assembly only:
PS1735141
Ice Cube Mold and Heater Assembly (Mold & Heater Assembly) -part 20 on diag.
Here more parts and diags.
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Across T & H I get 219K ohms, continuity should be like ~0.5 ohm. Also all mechanical operation work when I force an ice harvest
I just need more help to my reply to ginko
My original post
Whirlpool Gold refrigerator model GS6SHAXLB03 ice maker I have tested
the optics per the whirlpool repair manual twice and both times they
test OK. I can force an ice harvest but after the forced harvest the
ice marker fills but will not harvest again unless forced. I remove the
ice maker and test the thermostat(between T & H) and at room temp
it is open. I also test the heater (between L & H) and got 138
ohms. Replace the whole ice maker ? or is this a thermostat and can you
replace the thermostat ? The heater element in my manual say it should
be 72 ohms ? Randy
From Ginko
Double check the thermostat. It is an high limit. By the way if it has
continuity at room it should work. if it does not open at critical
temp, it will just melt cubes too much.
Check also wiring harness inside ice maker, it should be part 20 on
diagram below.
If you do not find anything wrong, then it can be a mechanical problem, for example the ejector may be jammed.
At that point the choices are disassemblying or buyng a whole replacement assembly.
By the way, you do not need to replace the whole ice maker, you can replace the molding assembly only:
PS1735141
Ice Cube Mold and Heater Assembly (Mold & Heater Assembly) -part 20 on diag.
My reply
Across
T & H I get 219K ohms, continuity should be like ~0.5 ohm. Also all
mechanical operation work when I force an ice harvest
I just need some more info on what to check next. I got a quick reply from Ginko and he stopped and I was wanting to try to work on again tonight.
Not the answer I wanted to hear, but what I expected.
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