Question about Whirlpool GR448LXPQ Electric Kitchen Range

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Eroor code E1 F2 - Whirlpool GR448LXPQ Electric Kitchen Range

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Try unplugging for 5minutes and letting it reset, should fix your problem

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore self-cleaning range, display shows code E1-F2.

F2-E1 - Touch Pad (Keypad) Cable Unplugged -
Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

It appears your timer/clock has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid KGRT607HW9 MODEL FAULT CODE F2:E1

F2-E1 - Touch Pad (Keypad) Cable Unplugged -
Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

It appears your timer/clock has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!@#$

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: error code f2:e1

F2-E1 - Touch Pad (Keypad) Cable Unplugged -
Check the connection between the touch pad (keypad) and control board (clock) to make sure it is secure.
Select the 'cancel' function and wait 60 seconds.
If error code reappears then replace the touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly.

It appears your timer/clock has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.#%^

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore gas range beeps and displays code E1-F2

I'm not sure if the error codes are the same for gas ranges as they are for electric, but this is the solution for that same error code with the electric version. you might give it a try with yours and see if it works the same for gas as well (I would assume the electronics are similar between the two).
you probably don't need to replace any parts to solve this problem. E1 -F2- = the keytail (connector ribbon) that plugs into the control board is not making good contact. first unplug your range and then remove the two screws on the underside of the back-splash controls panel to access the back of the control board. now simply cut a slip of heavy paper such as a business card to the width of the ribbon and slide it into the slot along with the ribbon connector. that will help press the contacts on the other side together snuggly. screw the back-splash back in place, plug in your range, and the problem might vanish. if the error code returns, try pulling out the connector, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser, reinserting it into the slot and repeat above with the paper.
the paper trick worked for me for about two weeks, then the problem happened again. the next fix I tried was to unplug the keytail (the ribbon connector) from the slot on the control panel. there is a clip in each side of the black plastic receptacle (the place where the keytail plugs in on the electronics control board). pres them inward to separate the top portion of the receptacle, which I think helps to clamp the keytail into the bottom portion. the top and bottom fit tightly together, so you might need to use a small screwdriver at the joint to pry them apart, however, I did not find it necessary to remove that clamp in order to remove or replace the keytail on mine.
smoke and other sticky cooking fumes cling to the contact wires on the keytail and the pins in the receptacle (as well as other surfaces) and that buildup interferes with the electrical connection they need to make. once the keytail is free, clean it well with a mild cleanser (I used a slightly soapy, damp dish sponge) and dry it with a clean paper towel. FYI, one side of the keytail has the exposed wires which make contact with pins in the receptacle on the control board. the exposed side is on the inside surface of the curled keytail ribbon, the outside surface is translucent plastic insulation (you can feel that the outside is smoother than the inside because the inside has the contact wires exposed). the inside is the side you want to make sure is clean because those are the wires that need to make electrical contact with the pins in the receptacle.
next, use sharp scissors to carefully trim a small uniform strip (roughly 1/16 of an inch or less) off the end of the keytail. then plug it in again (remembering to use the top portion of the receptacle to secure it in if you had removed it). doing this provides a fresh spot on the exposed wires to make contact with the pins in the receptacle. my theory is that over time the wires wear out at the points where they make contact with the pins. trimming the edge allows you to insert the keytail deeper into the receptacle and therefore, the pins will contact the wires in the keytail at a new, unworn spot. it's been over a week now and so far, it seems to have fixed the problem on my stove. if I get the error message again in the future, my next step will be to try paper trick again (at least as a temporary solution), but I doubt it will be necessary any time soon.
be sure to try all other solutions first before ordering any parts. I first changed the control board for $125 and there was no change. then I ordered the touchpad, but ended up fixing the problem before it arrived. I sent the touchpad part back to Sears Parts Direct after I figured out I didn't need it and they eventually refunded $15 less than I'd paid. of that difference, $13 and change was for shipping, so the other dollar plus must have been a miscalculation or a restocking charge or something, but I didn't bother following up to find out. I also had to pay about $3 to ship it back to them via USPS because I didn't hear the UPS guy when he dropped it off on the doorstep, so I wasn't able to simply refuse the delivery.
good luck with your repair.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

on Apr 24, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.


4 Digit Failure Codes

F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective

Two digit codes:

F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure

Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:

F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction

F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error

F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.

If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

Regards.

on Mar 27, 2010 | KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave...

1 Answer

I replaced circuit board in whirlpool combo microwave / oven, shows fault code F2, error code E1.


Did you get the circuit board from a trustworthy place?
It is a circuit board error. Did you install it correctly - right wires to right connections?
Control displaying F2 E1:
There may be a problem with the User Interface (Touchpad), or the associated wire connectors.
Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.
Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
Monitor the oven for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
Verify oven operation
Have to go the long way to bring up the link by first:
e1 f2 whirlpool oven Google Search
and then click on https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjprvf2_7nJAhXKVRoKHe7zAmMQFggdMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.whirlpool.com%2Fproduct-help%2Ferror-code-oven-f2-error-code-f2-e1%2FPH7389%2F&usg=AFQjCNFoDK8E-zgNHF3Kp4EoihGu1tbyEw

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E1 & E2 EROOR


E1: Comms error indoor to outdoor
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E1 F2 error code


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Hello,4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
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1 Answer

F2:E1 Code


F-2 is oven temp too high, which would be a bad thermostat or thermistor.potentially. It could be the oven control module (which is probably what the guy changed out already).
Here is the code for kitchen Aid:

F2 - E0
or
F2 - E1 Keypad not connected Check keypad connector for firm connection.

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1 Answer

Kebc207 oven error code E1 F2


This is information from the Tech Sheet.

Fault Code F2 - Error Code E1: Code Explanation: Keypad keytail not connected. Recommended Repair Procedure: 1. Check keypad connector for firm connection. 2. Press CANCEL. If error code returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad. 3. Replace control.

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