Question about Viking VWH3010 Kitchen Hood

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My Kitchen Hood is not working, I need to replace the switch but I cannot remove the cover. There are 3 screws when I took them out I still couldnot remove. Is there anything you can tell me as to how remove the cover to replace switch?

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I just replaced the square switch myself. DO NOT UNSCREW THE PANEL. YOU CANNOT TAKE IT OFF ALL THEY WAY ANYWAY! Blue tape around the square switch, then take a thin scewdriver and work each side alternating and eventually the switch pops out. These are little plug in switches that just cost $10 but if a repairman has to do it, could cost you $300 - I know, I checked. What a waste of our money to spend almost $1000 on a piece of **** fan!!!

Posted on May 02, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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    • 1
      Unplug your unit and turn off the gas supply at the saddle valve near the unit.

    • 2
      Lift up the hood of the oven. If you have sealed burners, the lid will not lift up. Locate the ignitors near the burners of the unit. Clean any gunk away from the ignitor using a toothbrush. Test the unit.


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      Pull the burner dials off the front of the unit if the ignitors won't work.

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      Remove the screws at the ends of the front cover, where the gas supply knobs are located, using a screwdriver, and remove the cover from the oven.

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      Slide the wires off the burner valve switches and pull them off the burner valve by sliding the switch forward. The switch will have wires attached to it. Loosen the screws holding down the wires of the burner valve. Pull out the wires carefully. Place the wires in a new switch. Slide the new switch onto the burner valve. Replace the knob, and turn on the gas supply and power. Ignite the burner.

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Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7925141_repair-electronic-ignition-gas-stove.html#ixzz2ZPuc5nad

Jul 18, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

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We have a SV168n-36 Spagna Vetro Range Hood and it works well but the lights are having problems now. They only come on intermittently and when they do come on once they heat up they shut back off.


I had the exact same problem with my Spagna Vetro hood. The fan worked fine, but the lights started working intermittently and then stopped working altogether. The problem in my case was a failed transformer, which sits between the power switch and the lights and is necessary to step-down the voltage from conventional 120v to 12v to support the halogen bulbs in the unit. Although there are several steps to resolving the problem (replacing the transformer), it's really not difficult. Here's what I did to solve the problem:

1) Shut off the circuit at the breaker (always very important :^) )
2) Removed the glass arch from the top of the hood. Four screws hold it in place and are accessed from above the unit.
3) Removed the access panel above the fan and light switches. This panel is visible underneath the glass arch, when the glass arch is removed. I slid the lower section of the decorative stainless chimney cover upward to gain complete access to the back two screws of this panel.
4) I unplugged the original transformer from the light on/off switch (connected with two yellow wires on my unit). Remove the wire-nuts and disconnect the 12v leads from black and white wires that connect the transformer to the halogen bulb fixtures.
5) Using a flat-head screwdriver, I pried the transformer off the metal surface to which it was adhered with double-stick tape. This was strongly adhered and took a bit of prying.
6) Found a replacement step-down electronic transformer at the hardware store. My hood takes only two 10 to 20 watt bulbs, so only a small transformer is required. The original one I removed was rated to 70 watts max. I replaced it with a transformer rated to 60 watts max. Either was more than sufficient to cover the 20 watt load produced by my two 10 watt bulbs. Cost of the replacement was about $15.
7) Connected the replacement transformer to the hood power switch. Here, I had to be a little careful to maintain the original polarity of the wires from the switch. This is because the original transformer, though it had one white and one black wire on its 120v side, was attached to the switch via two identical-looking yellow wires, using a non-standard plastic connector. The new transformer did not have one of these connectors on its 120v input wires (black and white), and I wanted to make sure that the I wired the replacement exactly as the original had been wired. Fortunately, the original plastic connector ensured a consistent polarity. When I looked at the end of the connector, one lead was square and one lead was round and noted that the square lead had been attached to the White wire on the original transformer. The replacement transformer also had a white and black wire for its 120v side. So, I marked the yellow wire from switch that attached to the white wire through the square lead. Then, I cut off the plastic connector from the yellow wires, stripped the sheathing from them about 1/4 inch, and attached the white wire from the new transformer to the previously marked yellow wire, using a small wire nut. I then connected the black wire from the transformer to the remaining yellow wire in the same way.
8) On the 12v side of the transformer, the wires are the same color and I did not pay close attention to polarity, simply connecting each to the spliced wires leading to the halogen bulbs (that I exposed when I removed the wire nuts from them in step 4, above) using fresh wire nuts.
9) The double-stick tape that attached the original transformer to the hood remained firmly attached to the metal surface of the hood and it was still very tacky on the surface that had been attached to the original transformer. So, after I tidied up the wires in the space, I positioned the new transformer over the tape and pressed it down firmly, which seemed to adhere the new transformer to the hood pretty well.
10) With the connections completed, and power restored to the circuit at the breaker, the lights worked fine, and the fan continued to work fine. I reversed the steps I used to expose the switch and transformer.

So that's all there was to it. The cost of parts was about $20 for the transformer and a bag of wire nuts. Investigating the problem probably took more time than the actual repair, which took about 20 minutes from start to finish.

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1 Answer

How do you replace?


Kitchen hood replacement can be completed easily with a family member or a friend. While you may wonder why anyone would replace a kitchen hood, the answer usually is simple. Here is how to replace a kitchen hood.
Tools Needed

  • New Range/Kitchen Hood
  • Screws
  • Screwdriver
  • Friend
  • Wiring Nuts
  • Circuit Tester

Warning: Remember that you are dealing with electricity, so stay away from water and use all safety precautions issued by the manufacturer.
Step 1 - Shut off Electricity

Remember to turn off the electrical supply to the old kitchen hood. You will need to do this via the circuit breaker box. Wait for 10 to 20 minutes and then test the wires with the circuit tester to double check that no electricity is being supplied to the kitchen hood.

Step 2 - Remove Old Hood

After you know for a fact that it is not receiving an electrical current, you can begin the process of removing the older kitchen hood. You should first take off the electrical wiring cover that is located by the light fixture. Then have your family member or friend hold up the old kitchen hood while you remove any screws or bolts from it. Once that is done, you can then freely slide it off.
Step 3 - Check Wiring

Double check that you have at least 12 inches of wiring to connect your kitchen hood to the wall. It should be noted that if you have a kitchen hood without vents, proceed to step 5 next.
Step 4 - Find the Ducts

If your new kitchen hood has vents, you will need to locate the fan or vent duct. Once you have found it, you can open up the vent hole where it will belong.
Step 5 - Wires

Open up the covering for the wiring and put the covering in a safe area for easy reach.
Step 6 - Install the New Kitchen Hood

Have your friend or family member hold up the kitchen hood and mark the areas where the screws or bolts will be. Then have them put down the kitchen hood and screw in the screws half way into the holes. After that, you can slide in the kitchen hood.
Step 7 - Route Wiring

Lightly pull the wiring through the proper holes and connect both black wires from the new kitchen hood to the black wire from the wall with a wire nut. Then connect the two white wires from the hood with the white wire from the wall, again using a wire nut. Next, connect the green wire to the green ground screw. Then place the wire covering back on.
Step 8 - Tighten Screws

Finish tightening the screws in place.
Step 9 - Test

Check to make sure the fan and light work. If it is supposed to vent outside, make sure that the air is leaving the vent with no issues. If something does not work proper, repeat steps 6 and 7 until everything works well. Remember that you will be working with electrical equipment, so follow safety measures issued by the state or the city.

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Can this be installed over an island?


Bring a focal point to your kitchen by having an island range hood, combining function and elegant form. A suspended hood is also an efficient way to vent
grease, odors and smoke to the outside from a island stovetop while you cook. You can install an island range hood in just a few hours with the right tools
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1.Wear safety glasses and work gloves. Turn off the electricity to your kitchen at the circuit panel. Cover the circuit breaker with a piece of electrical
tape to prevent people from turning the on switch while you are at work.
2.Lay work drop cloths on your cooktop and floor to catch dust and debris. Mark the duct opening with a pencil in the ceiling, where the island hood will be
installed. Be sure the opening is centered directly above your cooktop. Cut the opening using a hacksaw.
3.Go up to the roof, using a cat's claw and hammer to remove stucco, tiles, sheathing and insulation to make way for the steel venting duct. Drop a
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4.Follow the manufacturer's instructions for locations, installing 2-by-2 wooden blocks in the ceiling to hold the ductwork hangers.
5.Install the venting duct from the outside of the home, down to the location of the exhaust vents on the island hood. The ducts should easily slip into each
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6.Screw a roof cap on the end of the duct at the roof. Seal any openings or gaps where the roof, ceiling and duct meet with silicon sealant. Let the sealant
dry, then paint with colors matched to the surrounds.
7.Place your hood upside-down on the floor, with the fan and filter facing upward. Locate and unscrew the metal electrical box cover on the island range
hood, to expose the wiring
8.Install the hood cover to the load-bearing ceiling frame with the package hardware through the four inside mounting corner flanges on the cover.
9.Measure what will be the distance from the bottom of your hood to the cooktop; it should not exceed 30 inches for exhaust efficiency. Have a helper hold
the hood in place while you attach the hood on the hood cover using the included screws. Use a level be sure the hood is level as mounted.
10.Connect the electrical wiring by consulting the manufacturer's suggestions or hire an electrician if you are not familiar with house wiring. Tuck the wires neatly in the hood electrical box and then replace the cover, after connecting the hood wires to the wall wiring.
11.Remove the electrical tape on the circuit breaker, turn on the electricity to your kitchen and test your island range hood.
8_9_2012_9_29_10_am.jpg

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You need to take the unit down to access the switchs. The unit should be mounted to the top of the cabinet by wood screws or nuts/bolts that you'll need to remove. Before starting any project having to do with appliances, always remember to turn off the power to that appliance by switching off the circuit breaker in your house panel. Once you have removed the screws, the unit will lower and you will see the cover that you'll need to remove and it will expose the switches. Goos luck
Ed
NC Electronic
Mills, Wyoming

Jan 06, 2008 | Viking VWH3048 Kitchen Hood

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