Question about Ingersoll Rand - Rand Type - 30 Reciprocating Air Compressor - 5 Hp, 230 Volt 1 Phase, Model - 2340L5

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Air is returning from the receiver through the check valve and continuly leaking through the suctsion unloader. Have replace o-rings around and under check valve and problem still excists

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It sounds like your check valve is stuck open and will need to be replaced.

John

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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1 Answer

My truck builds air 4 or 5 times in a row on its own. Then all the sudden it stops and wont. If i put it in nutral and rev it up real high it will start building air again. What is causing this?


Sounds like your Unloader is hanging up. What type truck and year?
1 check air line to govenor make sure no leak.
2 Check dis-charge hose or pipe.
3 Check to make sure air drier pop off valve is not leaking
4 The unloader valve in compressors become gummed up and o-ring break and cause valve to hang up in open position which prevents it from building air.
Good luck

Jan 31, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Porter Cable pancake air compressor is getting too hot and melting my air hose


ASSUMING THIS IS AN ELECTRIC MOTOR DRIVEN SINGLE STAGE COMPRESSOR, IF THE COMPRESSOR USES OIL IN THE CRANKCASE, THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHOULD CUT OFF AT 125 PSI AS THE ACT OF COMPRESSION HEATS THE AIR QUITE HOT. THERE IS ALWAYS SOME OIL THAT PASSED THE PISTON RINGS IN THE COMPRESSED AIR. IF THE COMPRESSED AIR GETS HOT ENOUGH, THE OIL VAPOR CAN IGNITE AND THE FLAME CAN CARRY TO THE TANK FOR AN IMPRESSIVE EXPLOSION. THIS ORDINARILY DOES NOT HAPPEN BELOW 175PSI OR MORE.

OILLESS COMPRESSORS CAN BE SET TO 150 PSI. WITH EITHER TYPE OF COMPRESSOR, THE HOSE SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE REGULATOR OR THE REGULATOR STACK, NEVER TO THE COMPRESSOR, AS THE COMPRESSED AIR LOSES MUCH OF ITS HEAT WHILE IN THE RECEIVER. IF THE WHOLE TANK IS GETTING HOT ENOUGH TO MELT A PROPERLY ATTACHED HOSE, YOU HAVE A DANGEROUS SITUATION, CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE PRESSURE SWITCH, UNLOADER VALVE AND RELIEF VALVE. THE RELIEF VALVE SHOULD OPEN AT NO MORE THAN 150 PSI, THE UNLOADER VALVE OPENS WHEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH SHUTS THE MOTOR OFF, AND SHOULD ONLY HISS FOR A FEW SECONDS AS IT DUMPS THE PRESSURE ONLY IN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE LINE FROM THE COMPRESSOR TO THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE. IF THE UNLOADER VALVE HISSES MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS, THE TANK INLET CHECK VALVE IS LEAKING AND NEEDS TO BE SERVICED, CLEANED OR REPLACED. IF THERE IS CARBON BUILD UP IN THE VALVE, THERE IS EXCESS OIL PASSING THE COMPRESSOR PISTON RINGS, REPLACING THEM MIGHT FIX THAT IF THE CYLINDER OR RING LANDS ON THE PISTON ARE NOT TOO TAPERED OR WORN.

Jan 25, 2016 | Porter Cable Air Tools & Compressors

2 Answers

Pump is not shutting off, and pressure not building up


Hi Kendal

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

*Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

*Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
*Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.
*Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.
*Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.
*Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.
*Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Nov 01, 2012 | Campbell Hausfeld 26 - Gallon Air...

3 Answers

Is the reed valve part of the pressure switch


relief valve should only open in a over pressure condition. If it is opening prior to reaching pressure ....replace it.

May 21, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

I have a Dewalt D55141 Air Compressor that will work normally through one or two cycles, and then when it try's to power again it will just hum and quite repeatedly until I shut it off. It also bleeds...


I believe that you have a very simple problem related to the in-tank check valve. Follow the discharge hose from the compressor to the tank. It should connect to a brass or chrome valve. This valve has a one way check valve that allows air into tank and not return to compressor (if air leaks back, compressor will be under load (motor will not overcome) and air will leak from the pressure switch unloader valve). With air in the tank, remove the hose at the check valve and spray soapy water to verify leak, replace part or clean as needed. Good luck

Sep 30, 2011 | Dewalt Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

My Maxus ex8000 4 gallen conpresure will only pump up to75 psi, and wont shut off, and there are no air leaks.


If there are *no leaks* - including the unloader valve and head gasket - your valves are not closing enough for it to build up pressure to the shut of level which is around 150 psi. They might have gummed up - you would need to pull the head and clean them , head gasket should be replaced. The rings would be the next thing to consider.

Don F

Sep 07, 2011 | Campbell Hausfeld Twinstk Air Compressor...

1 Answer

Air leaks via the head so tank does not maintain pressure


The air leak you have described is probably from the unloader valve which may not be seating after it dumps cylinder pressure. If you can find a good manual for it, disassemble the unloader valve and check for contaminates or build up around the seat. The differential spring may have lost it's value also, in which case you will need to replace the unloader assembly.

Jan 20, 2010 | Porter Cable C2002 Wk 150 Psi 6 Gal. Oil...

1 Answer

Dayton air compressor to much head pressure to restart


Head pressure is caused by a malfunction of the unloader valve at the pressure switch or leaking checkvalve at the tank. Follow the discharge hose from the head to the brass valve at the tank. The brass checkvalve allows compressed air into the tank and not return to pump. Also connected at the checkvalve is the 1/4 airline to the pressure unloader at the pressure switch. This unloader releases the air in the discharge hose when the cycle completes. Look/listen for a release of air which lasts only for a moment after cycle at the pressure switch. Some pressure switch unloaders look like a tire stem valve with a small mechanical arm to activate pin. To check for faulty check valve at the tank, with air in tank remove the 1/4 line at the checkvalve and l look for leak. If leaking replace valve. Check valves and pressure switches are available at www.grainger.com. You can use generic parts instead of factory to save money, just pay attention to thread sizes. Good luck with you repair and email if you have questions.

Apr 02, 2009 | Campbell Hausfeld Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

AIR LEAK ON CRAFTSMAN AIR COMPRESSOR, 3HP,25 GAL, HORIZ TANK


The needle valve that you see is the unloader which releases air pressure from the discharge line after set pressure is obtained. If air continues to leak after the compressor shuts off, the check valve installed in the tank is leaking air out of the tank. Follow the air discharge line from the compressor to the tank. There you will find a brass valve which is the check valve. Simple test is to remove the smaller airline (1/4") from the brass valve and check for air leaking. If leaking remove brass valve and check for debris under the white seat. If you cannot clean the valve, replace with generic check valve from www.grainger.com. It will cost less than factory part. Just order the valve considering the fitting sizes that you need. For exact replacement,( www.sears.com parts). If you sears model # begins with WL then your compressor is made by campbell hausfeld and parts may be ordered from www.chpower.com. Good Luck with you repair and email if you have more questions.

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1 Answer

Makita MAC2200 runs fine (with new Manifold Switch and repaired power cord) but there is an air leak under the new manifold switch that seems to be a feature of the switch. When set to automatic, the...


I have worked on many makita compressors and have run-across this problem on a few of them. Your compressor has a check valve that is supposed to hold tank pressure after the switch reaches set pressure. There is an unloader valve built into the pressure switch that releases the pressure in the discharge hose after the unit shuts off. The unloader allows the compressor to restart with-out any pressure in the discharge line. If the brass check valve is leaking pressure back into the system, air will leak out of the unloader valve. Follow the discharge line to the tank and you will see the brass check valve. To test valve for fault, run the compressor till it builds around 80 psi and unplug the unit from the wall outlet. Remove the 1/4" hose connector from the check valve and check for air leaking out of the valve. If it is leaking you can order form www.toolpartsdirect.com. or call the makita 1-800 number. The price is about the same. Good Luck on your repair.

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