Question about Singer Featherweight II 117

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Loops on bobbin side

I am sewing through three layers of thin denim (hemming) using jeans thread and the bobbin side is not straight and has loops.

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Typically loops are a tension problem. Have you tried resetting your tension? You may have to also adjust your bottom tension, but be sure you mark (with fingernail polish or a sharpie) the original position so that you can put it back if it doesn't solve the problem. Also, what type of needle are you using? Try a jeans needle, maybe a 90 or 100. And, what kind of bobbin thread are you using? If you're using the same jeans thread, it may be too heavy for the bobbin. Try regular cotton or poly in the bobbin.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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1 Answer

Sewing jeans hems


You need a couple of things. One is to flatten the seams before you try to sew them. One of the best is to spread the hems on a wooden cutting board or simiilar smooth surface and beat the hems flat with a flat faced hammer. This is an official sewing hammer: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tools_and_supplies/ and it will compress the fabric so it doesn't lift your presser foot up and let the tension off the top thread (which is what's causing your looping problem).

For crossing thick seams, you need a shim to keep the presser foot flat while sewing. These are usually called hump jumpers or jean-a-majigs, and are a couple of bucks. Or you can use a fold of fabric in the same way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbYenXIDaDk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKdW_vIZLBo

Alternatively, you can do the jeans hem alteration that pros will charge you more for (because it's "fashionable"), and it's also faster and easier. Often called Euro-hemming: http://www.sewmuchado.com/2011/06/tutorial-how-to-hem-jeans-and-keep-the-original-hem.html

Feb 03, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I'm trying to sew jeans hem and stitches are uneven on top and loops are showing underneath. Also the foot and needle will not sew over cross seams and thread keeps getting snarled up underneath. Tha


a lot of machines struggle with denim because it is such a heavy and dense textile. Many domestic machines won't stitch it at all due to this. Things you can try however:
  • Denim needle, this has a deeper groove at the back and is a heavy gauge needle, or use size 110 if you don't have denim needle.
  • Bash the side seams with a hammer in the area you will be stitching, to soften up the fibres.
  • Use a seam jumper, this is a piece of plastic to put in back of the presser foot as you approach a cross seam to help keep the presser foot pressure even across the fabric. Sometimes called a "thingy-a-jean" or similar.
  • Don't bother trying to use the heavy gauge yellow jean thread unless you put it through the bobbin and sew with the right side down. But even then, many machines can't handle having this heavy thread underneath and the regular 50 cotton on top, my Janome 1600 won't do it.
  • put your machine on slowest speed if you have a variable setting and turn the flywheel to assist it through the heavy side seams.
Personally, I never bother with the twice turned hem on denim if shortening, I just overlock the raw edge, turn up 1 cm and stitch around in a matching blue thread so it is seen as little as possible.

Feb 03, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have been sewing denim, and the top thread keeps breaking at the needle. What adjustments do I need to make. It also bunches from the bobbin.


Are you trying to use a heavy thread like buttonhole twist through the needle like the yellow thread on store bought jeans? Most domestic machines will not cope with this heavy thread and it will be too large for the eye of the needle too.

If you are using regular weight 50 polyester thread and its breaking then it could be because the top tension is too tight. Just loosen off 1/2 a number on top tension dial and see if this helps.

If possible, buy a pack of jeans needles size 100 too, these are blue coated with teflon I think, and makes it easier to slip through denim which is a very dense fabric.

Hemming denim jeans is probably one of the toughest jobs for a domestic sewing machine so if you are trying to do this, its a good idea to take it slowly and use a "humpjumper" which helps to maneouvre over the thick side seams.

However, even with all the above, many machines won't sew more than one layer of heavy dense weave denim.

Jul 20, 2011 | New Home HF-106

1 Answer

Bottom thread is loose and loopy


I would use a denim needle, these are blue coated to slide through the fibres, usually in size 100. But the looping is more about the weight of the seam, ie thickness. Also aremyou trying to use thick yellow jeans thread on the outside and normal thread inside? This is difficult to achieve as the thick yellow thread wont go through needle, you need to use it on the bobbin and sew right side down. I have never had much success with jeans hems on my Japanese machine and usually end up using my industrial Singer to do it. You can try usinf a seam jumper Sometimes called a jeans-a-ma-jig, this helps give leaverage to the feed dogs as you approach the side seams. Also, belt the seams flat with a hammer first.

Jan 18, 2010 | Elna Heirloom Edition 6005

1 Answer

STITCHES DEEP TO BOBBIN SIDE HAVE CHANGED


You do need an oiling and cleaning. Also, try adjusting on the bobbin cover by turning th little screw with a small screwdriver. Keep adjusting and testing until you get the loops just as you want them...

Aug 05, 2009 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

The needle thread on my bernina minimatic keeps breaking.


There is special thread for denim/jeans. It usually comes in shades of brown. It's a little heavier and might help with the breakage. You might also want to try a little less tension. I assume you already have a Schmetz denim needle?

Apr 06, 2009 | Bernina Virtuosa 160

2 Answers

My bobbin thread is making big loops


Bottom looping says upper tension problems (too loose). Rethread it making sure the presser foot is up so the thread is inbetween the tension discs.

Dec 11, 2008 | Bernina Bernette 75

2 Answers

Thread tension problem when sewing on heavy fabrics


Sometimes when I need to use heavy thread for top stitching to reinforce a seam that has come undone, I will use the heavy thread on the top and regular thread on the bottom. I haven't tried it the other way around for hemming but I would think it would work. I do not currently have a Bernina.

Jan 15, 2008 | Bernina Artista 180

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