I have a similar problem as some other people here. I read the part about replacing the 6.3 amp fuse but can you tell where it is? Is it in the back panel??
Are there any diagrams available to help with locating the fuse?
I'm tempted to go right in and just hope for the best. Are there any other fuse that I could confuse it with?
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Its an PA amplifier and i think this is build with an integrated powerpack IC output stage,
There are different TOA amps but if this model look first the fuses if that are (important)measured defect give a new fuse a try if it blows again there is something wrong in the cables or a speaker conection or filter , ut if the fuses are good there could be an single great brown or black colored IC with STK (....)A or B or something similar is to read on it on the great heatsink inside the amplifier that could be having 15 or more legs must be replaced , BUT also some capacitors thats belong to the output stage because every defect is having a cause.
It think this amplifier IC should similar be looking like this
You should check and / or replace the 15 amp mini-fuse. It is in location #6 on the fuse panel under the instrument panel. 15 amp mini fuses are blue in color. Usually, but not always, you can tell if a mini fuse is burnt out by removing it and looking through the clear plastic to see if the fusible link is intact or open (burnt).
If it is labled, it may read "Parklamps, BSM, Instrument panel illumination"
Below is an image map of the fuse panel for a 2006 F-150.
If fuse blows, it normally means there is a fault. To briefly recap, compressor is about 2 amps, fans x2 is approx. 1 amp. and light/other 1amp. Possibly a 5 to 6 amp fuse. If it trips again, have the compressor or fans checked.
MOST likely the power amp chip is blown. They use a TDA2050 chip that is in a seven lead power tab package similar to the TO220 transistor package. Readily available from DigiKey.com for just under $3.
If you keep replacing the fuse, you may damage other components.
The other possibilty is a diode and/or filter capacitor has shorted.
Check the fuse on the unit first, if fuse is good and you have power to the am you may have fried it. This is common when the speaker load is not adhered to prperly. Make sure your speakers are connected properly (2/4/6/8 ohms) and not exceeding the limits of the amp, this fries them 99% of this time.
Your set has pico and micro fuses soldered in ( various locations) depending on what circuit B+ supply is being "watched"...the amperage can vary from 2 to 5 or more...
Went all white, then no pix suggests you lost the 200volt
source B+ that goes to the RGB pcboards = one on end of each CRT.......Some websites offer SM's = search your Model # then service manual.........HTH>...........T.
I had a similar problem, in that I could not find the proper fuse for my set. I bought a bit higher amp fuse from Radio Shack and it ended up blowing a couple months later. I've since pulled the TV down and replaced it with an LCD set, so I've solved my problem.
But, to address yours, I don't think the amp difference would not be the problem. Likely, there is a power issue on your set causing it to draw more amps and become out of specification. Using a higher amp fuse would buy you more 'capacity', but if its blowing those too (repeatedly), its likely a real problem in the set. I'm not a TV technician, so I can't tell you why. I'd suggest taking the thing in for service (cheaper than the house call) or if that is too expensive, looking at putting your money into a set that won't give you those problems. Or, just keep replacing the fuse until it doesn't fix the problem.