Question about Pioneer VSX-515 Receiver

1 Answer

Vsx 515 wont power on

Was connected to surge board. went to turn on recently nothing!
removed cover checked fuse its not blown
at a loss as to whats happened

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  • krishantha
    krishantha May 19, 2018

    vsx 515 no power

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  • Pioneer Master
  • 75,283 Answers

The main power supply regulator section circuit fault. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ /

Posted on May 19, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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techman
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SOURCE: Won't power on

If its less then a year old, take the unit with the bill of sale to an authorized repair depot. Most recivers like this have a 1 to 2 year warranty

Posted on Sep 12, 2006

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Receiver won't power on

My receiver was turned on and plugged into a surge protector along with my LCD TV. The power went out and everything shut down.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Pioneer VSX-517 was turne up lou. Showe

THERMAL SHUTDOWN PROTECTORS MAY BE BLOWN

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Won't power on

Our VSX-515-S quit suddenly while playing when it was turned up quite loud. The power would not come back on. I disconnected it, and opened it up. No fuses were blown, but there was no voltage in the power supply. When I pressed the on button, I could hear a very faint click, but no power. I even took some parts out and replaced them.

I went on line and bought a service manual download for $7.95.

Within 5 minutes, I found where the service manual said if there was a DC overload, the power would cut off. To reset, press the ENTER + ADVANCED SURROUND key simultaneously and hold for 3 seconds.

I did this and the power came back on. It even remembered the last FM station it was tuned to. Problem s.olved

Posted on Dec 06, 2010

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Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
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4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
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6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.


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It just has no power. Nothing happened, I just went to use it and it was dead.


The main fuse is blown, "ceramic type" usually caused by a defective door switch.

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My electric went off yesterday and when it went back on my tv wouldnt turn on it was working fine before the power cut we have changed the fuse but still nothing is there anyway i can reset it to make it...


you said you changed the fuse. (inside the tv)double check to see if its blown agian if not. keep it unplugged for about 20 minutes to reset the surge protector onboard . if you have done all that the fuse didnt protect your tv from the surge and it gone. IF ITS CONNECTED TO A SURGE PROTECTOR unplug it from that and plug directly into the wall TRY THAT FIRST let me know if this works.

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This morning I tried to turn my RCA TV (model 24R411T) on and nothing happened. I tried plugging it into a different outlet, still nothing. I tried leaving it unplugged about 10 minutes and trying again,...


Hello,

Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!

Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.

Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).

If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.

TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:

It will work fine, problem solved.

It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives (use the series light bulb to cut your losses - see the section.

It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic.

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