Question about Kenmore 62822 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore 62822 electric dryer

The thermal fuse has blown. If I by-pass the fuse the drum will turn, but for some reason the heating element starts up with the door opened or closed when the dryer is on a heated cycle. It also heats up whether I by-pass the thermal fuse or not. The drum does not turn when I just close the door & push the start button. Help!!

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  • blownfuse Dec 21, 2007

    When I took the element housing off, the element wasn't touching anywhere on the part it was attached to & appeared to be fine. When I put it back together & looked up through the bottom (with a small mirror), it was just barely touching the housing in one spot. Took it back off & gently bent the piece that holds the element just a little bit where it was making contact. Now it works fine. Thanks for the help!!

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  • 290 Answers

Check your heating element to see if it is shorted to ground.
The element has 110V to it all the time, so if the element shorts to ground it will heat all the time. This is a fairly common failure.

If the element is ok, you may have a stuck centrifigul switch inside the motor, this is very rare but does happen sometimes.

Post back to let me know what you find or if you have any questions.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 20, 2007

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1 Answer

I have blown the thermal cutoff fuse twice. I bypassed the fuse and it works perfectly, for days. Were do I start looking for the main problem?


by passing the fuse is not a good idea. its more than likely the heater element is the problem.or the fan is not able to work correctly due to blockage or warn motor. over heating is the reason for the thermal switch cut off.

Feb 22, 2018 | Dryers

1 Answer

Cwsr ele 2406024 cv50


I'm inclined to think that the problem is in the electronics, in the circuit board, since it's acting so oddly. The timer dial shouldn't allow the heating element to energize when the door is open.

If the thermal fuse is blown, you should NOT get heat.

Aug 13, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Lg dlex7177wm heating element


If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.
If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.
This is a specialised job and should only be attempted by technically competent persons.

Mar 13, 2014 | LG DLEX7177 Dryer

1 Answer

Heating


The little white part with one hole is the thermal fuse, similar to the cutoff but service a different purpose.

The cut off will blow if there is lack of air flow, typically a plugged vent or lint screen.

The thermal fuse will blow if the exhaust temperature is too high. The reason the temperature is too hot can be one of two things.

#1 and most likely is the component right next to the thermal fuse, it is the operating thermostat.

#2 A shorted heat element that is on all the time, this can be checked by turning the timer knob to 30 minutes on the timed dry cycle, close the door but do not start the dryer. Open the door after about 2 minutes and see if the drum is hot. If it is not the element is okay.

I hope this helps

May 03, 2010 | KitchenAid KEYS700LQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat element all have continuity, power chord is good, 240v at plugin... stumped. It is a model # LER4634BQ1 Whirlpool SN# ME4471484


dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.







Feb 06, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

DRyer is turning just not drying clothes Maytag


Hello there:
Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

Jan 19, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat.


If the drum turns then either the element itself is broken or the thermal cutoff is blown.  The thermal cutoff is located on the element and is designed to keep the element from getting to hot.  If that is blown you will also need to replace your operating thermostat which turns the element on and off. is should be located on the exhaust.  If the drum is not spinning at all it is most likely the thermal fuse which is also located on the exhaust.

Oct 25, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Heating element failed twice


most dryers have a thermal fuse on the exhaust it may be open

Mar 17, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

5 Answers

Kenmore electric dryer won't start. #63841


Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

Nov 02, 2007 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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