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Ice maker control arm goes up enough(by itself) to not dump cubes until manually put in down position again. Is there an adjustment or repair/cleanining I can do?

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The arm is hanging up internally . Other than replaceing the ice maker , go to a hardware store , and buy a few stainless steel nuts ( for bolts ) . Unhook the fill cup end of the arm , and install a few nuts . This should give enough weight , to make the arm drop .

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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Is the arm that gets pushed up by the ice cubes (in order to stop making ice when it is full) in the down position? it is able to be pushed up and locked so that the icemaker doesn't make at ice and may need to be pushed down.

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Should be a wire feeler arm that runs front to back on that icemaker. If it is stuck in the up position---the icemaker is OFF. It should be hanging downward to be in the ON position. If up---just gentley pull it down until it is moving freely. As the ice bin fill with cubes that arm should move up and down with the icemaker. Once the cube level is high enough for the feeler arm to be held in the up position it will stop making ice until you use enough cubes for the arm to fall again.

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Hi rlh2004,

There are several factors why a refrigerator tops making ice. We will look on the most common factors and give you some troubleshooting that you can do to fix the issue.Before doing any checking or repair please unplug the refrigerator, remember your safety.

1. Check the shut-off arm - An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place. To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.

2. Check the water supply line - The water supply line connects to a supply valve usually found under the kitchen sink or behind the freezer. If the valve is not turned to a position which allows for enough pressure, the water may not fill the ice mold.
Check that the water valve is opened to allow enough water to fill the ice mold. You can open the valve all the way but it is better if you open it just enough to provide the adequate pressure level.
You can also inspect the water supply line for dents or pinching that might restrict the flow of water to the icemaker.

3. Check the freezer temperature - The ideal temperature for the freezer is about 5 degrees (F). The refrigerator should be kept at about 36 degrees (F). The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the freezer or refrigerator.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using Fixya.

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The ice-maker shutoff arm in my LG LFX29560 doesn't move to the position to shut off making ice. It looks like ice falls on TOP of it, instead of pushing it up. I've checked it at different stages, and...


The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

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There are usually 2 small solenoid valves that are used to control water. Both are generally installed at the rear close to the bottom of the fridge. One of the solenoids controls the water flow for drinks and the other is to control water flow to the ice maker. You can determine which is which by tracing the water supply tubes from the freezer compartment to the solenoid or by process of elimination. The latter method requires that you feel for movement (clicking) or heat on the water dispenser solenoid while someone starts to fill a glass with water from the fridge.

Before going any further, make sure that the ice cube detection arm in the freezer is not up. Gently push the arm down if it is. When ice cubes are ready, the ice maker turns on a small heater to break the bond of the ice cubes to the cube mold. The arm is lifted up and out of the way. Then the mechanical fingers wipe or push on the cubes to dislodge them from the ice cube mold and they fall into the container. The arm is then lowered again and rests on top of the ice collected in the container. The position of the arm when resting on the ice cubes determines whether or not any more ice cubes are made.

If the arm is hanging down, then ice cube production should be on. The problem may be either a faulty solenoid valve (mentioned above), switch in the ice maker assembly - the detection arm in particular or wiring between.

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Ice maker has ice motor doen't dump the ice


Your ice-maker may need to be "hard-reset". To do this, perform a manual-defrost by emptying out the freezer (and fridge) and shutting all power off to your unit for several hours (at least half a day unless you can be sure the temp in the freezer has fully reached ambient. Next, with freezer empty, restore power, make sure the "ice" setting is set to off, then set the forced power-freeze mode (you can refill the fridge, but leave the freezer empty for now. When the power-freeze completes (at least 2.5 hours) you can refill the freezer, set the "ice" mode to block/crushed (IE something other than off) and then hit the "black reset button" to restart the ice-maker. IF it still will not dump the cubes then the ice sensor/control board may have failed.

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check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown belowef280e4.jpg

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.
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