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BAILEY RANGER 1997 THE CARVER HEATING SYSTEM DOES NOT WORK THE SELECTION LIGHTS JUST KEEPS FLASHING. I'VE CHECKED THE 240V AND 12V SUPPLY TO THE PCB, ALL THE FUSES ARE OK. THE PCB HAS THE FOLLOWING INFO PRINTED ON IT: CARVER ASSY L808176 CC/10/811/7 ISSUE 1

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2 brake lights, turn signals not working 1999 plym. grand voyager

relay

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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james klgr
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SOURCE: Asus K8V SE Deluxe - will not turn on

if that isnt it you have program trouble try a repair on your harddrive windows set up to boot from cd rom and if it dont getect hard drive thats problem

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

  • 286 Answers

SOURCE: 12v outlet fuses keep blowing.

Faulty reciever ,,, Worth checking the plug assy for internal damage . Check that the sat receiver is within the power capabilities of the vehicles acessory plugs < 10amp .

Posted on Apr 05, 2010

ftw1952
  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: It is a Guardian-Generac Generator Model 0052410.

My cousin has one of these models and the same thing happened to his. It was the natural gas regulator valve that went out. He could hear the clicking noise which is the spark ignitor trying to ignite the gas pilot light. After replacing the gas regulator the unit work fine as ever

Posted on Nov 02, 2010

sulavaca
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SOURCE: 1994 Chevy C1500 truck. No rear brake lights

Most likely this is a brake light switch issue. Replace switch.

If your emergency flashers don't work, all flasher bulbs are fine, but flashing too fast, then check and replace Hazard light switch.

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

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1 Answer

Bailey caravan problems


How many caravanners out there has had problems with the cpi pn the Bailey GT65

Jan 01, 2014 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

The problem is that there is no heat in the dryer


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Sep 27, 2009 | Westinghouse Industrial Plus White-...

1 Answer

Dryer will run, buy does not heat up. I have model MCE8000AYW. I runs like normal, but does not heat up. We just moved and I had the dryer plugged in, but the dryer breaker was not turned on. I turned the...


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Sep 27, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer ignites to heat sometimes, then other times does not ignite


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Sep 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Estate TAWS750PQ 27-Inch Washer

1 Answer

Dryer is tumbling but not heating up properly so it takes forever to dry. It is plugged in, gas is connected, just replaced the vent to the outside cuz thought that might be it.


If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.

Aug 30, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My printer has stopped feeding the paper - It doesnt even try to do it now- and the paper jam light keeps flashing even though there is no jam. any ideas ??


Please check the paper feed motor connector, if ok then check the supply from PCB.. 12V regulator IC to be replace..

Jul 10, 2009 | HP OfficeJet Pro K8600 Printer

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating


First, in many cases, the dryer actually IS heating, but there’s just not enough airflow out the vent to take advantage of it, so the end result’s the same as ‘no heat’.So first determine that there’s a strong flow of air out the vent. I can’t stress this enough - low airflow’s the no. 1 cause of dryer problems, not to mention dryer fires. Then check if there’s any heat in the drum when running empty. Note: there's finally a simple, inexpensive tool to test airflow in Whirlpool-built dryers!
If there doesn’t seem to be any heat at all, first check for 240V present at the dryer. I can tell you that many hours have been wasted over the years by not *doing this first*!Neglecting this is probably THE most common mistake of the novice appliance tech (and some pros who should know better! <g> ).

If you have a voltmeter or 240V bulb, just check for 240V at the dryer term. block, and you will save some aggravation and possibly a service call.

If you have no way to test this, or you are at all uneasy about messing with 240V (you HAVE read my disclaimer, right?), just go to your breaker box and throw the dryer breaker off/on several times.(If your dryer is connected with fuses, replace both of them and try it again.)Sometimes - just sometimes - resetting the breaker will restore 240V, especially in damp basements.

(On the handiest tool list: a 240V/10W bulb with leads/alligator clips, carried in your pocket - a real timesaver, and far superior to neon testers)
How you proceed from here depends on your abilities, and I’m not able to get too involved in this short article.I’d probably suggest calling a pro if you’ve proven 240V to the machine, there definitely is no heat, and there’s plenty of air out the vent. A pro sees this problem every day and can usually diagnose it in 10-15 minutes.
I will say to those of you who are ‘handy’ - start at the heat source and work *backwards*.If there’s nothing obvious (burnt wiring, etc) attach that 240V bulb to the element leads (or gas valve 120V supply), and fire the dryer up.
Light = open element (gas control/ignition system problems).
No light = other problems (thermal fuse, t'stat, etc).

Keep it simple.This one usually is.





courtesy: davesrepair




regards
iversh

Mar 30, 2009 | Whirlpool LGQ9857L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Mod# A-SMH18SA SER# 2791206189 Heat controller mini-split. Cust says lights flashing on board- he resets it, yet it resumes to just flashing at the board. Nothing runs. Long drive out there- any ideas. Was...


First of all, Heat Controller does not mount any schematics on their systems panels at all and supply no information for the service tech to code the light on the outdoor board. This is unbelievable.
Anyway- I found that the electrician had re-arranged breakers in the panel supplying the building and had connected the outdoor heat pump to 120v instead of 240v. He had interpenetrated the connection at the unit that has marked 2(N) as being a neutral connection. I explained that on 120v systems, that is neutral, but on a 240v system, it's L2. The outdoor board was flashing 5 times after the power was turned on for 3 minutes. Voltage at "S" was 38.4v, with this condition and the indoor units lights (all) were flashing every second and beeping as well.
It's running fine now that we are connected to the proper voltage.

Jan 05, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

The power light keeps flashing orange


I had my Optiplex GX520 at work shut down abruptly every time I turned it on it in the morning. This would always happen within the first 30 minutes. I would then get the flashing amber light. After starting the PC again, it would stay on all day (over 8 hours) without shutting down again. I found that the power supply was over-heating.

Two things need to be done. First, in order to get the amber light to stop flashing, un-plug the computer from the wall for 30 seconds then plug it back in. OR hold down the power button for 10 seconds or so. The light should stop flashing. Then press the power button again and the PC should start.

But why did it abruptly shut down in the first place? The power supply has a fan-speed-control circuit in it to keep it running slow and quiet when the power supply is cool. It gives the power supply lower voltage when the power supply is cold and higher voltage as the power supply gets warmer. This circuit either is not working correctly or the fan getting sticky over the years and needing more voltage to get it moving when it is cold. I found that the fan was not starting at all and causing the power supply to over-heat.


To keep the fan moving at full speed, I cut the wire to it and wired it to the +12v output directly. Not the fan goes at full speed all the time. And yes, it is nosier. But at work it doesn’t matter.

The best solution would be to just get another power supply from Dell if possible. Or buy a +12v, 70mm fan from Digi-Key and replace the original.

Jun 27, 2008 | Computers & Internet

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