Question about GE Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Profile Oven FTP18 - F7 Code
The F7 problem is usually caused by a short circuit between segments of the ribbon cable connecting the touchpanel to the ERC. Open the touch panel. Insert a slip of paper (yes paper) between the two segments of ribbon cable where it exits the slot in the touchpanel. Try to work the paper down as far as possible. A piece of file card may work better. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touch panel, also add slips of paper between the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot. I have shared my solution with over 795 folks with the F7 problem. Most report success. Cleaning the contacts is a myth. It is only a short time solution as when you move the cable you are temporarily disrupting the short circuit, but it will grow back. The short is caused by what is know a dendrite. It is a growth from the silver traces on the membrane switch conductors. If you want more technical information, contact me at email@example.com. The solution should work for all ovens made by GE including Kenmore as far back as 1998. Don't be concerned about putting paper in the top of the oven. GE places a set of instructions in the top of the oven. Many folks have replaced touchpanels only to have the problem return.
Posted on May 29, 2007
SOURCE: GE Profile Stove
I used what Charlie recommended ...” post-it” as insulation
And works PERFECTLY….
I have a Kenmore oven Clock…( built in the wall)
Thanks Charlie…you are a Genius!!!!
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
No, this is not an appropriate way to solve this issue. You will need to replace the ERC, in this case. One, or more of the function buttons are stuck. This has caused a short in the control. Replacing the ERC, will correct the issue properly.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
SOURCE: F7 error message on GE oven
one other comment about the F7 message having delt with this stupid oven for years and after replacing touchpads and controls the touch pad is the cause of the F7 in one of 2 ways either the ribbon cable is shorted (the repair for this has been posted by several people and is good) or a stuck button .One cause of the stuck button at least in my house has been steam coming from the oven flowing over the touch pad this can get moisture in the touchpad shorting it out causing a button to stick giving an error message also making the oven unusable....what I did solved the problem I figured I was going to have to spring for a new touch pad so I peeled it off the front of the oven got under the edge with a knife and lifted it off (it is stuck on fairlly well but will lift off) once this is done i squeezed every button between my fingers and flexed the touchpad back and forth (flexed not bent) ..I noticed the edges are not sealed well allowing moisture between the mylar surfaces poor design! i replaced pad and sprayed edges with silicone spray soaked the front also around the window area figuring the silicone would get between the surfaces and help prevent this problem Ta Da oven all better too bad I didn't figure this out sooner but I hope this helps someone....GB BodhaineG@aol.com
Posted on May 08, 2010
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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