Question about GE Monogram ZISS420NRSS 42" Built-In Side-By-Side Refrigerator (ZIS-S420NRSS, ZIS S420NRSS)

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GE GSH25JSTASS doesn't freeze or cool

My GE model GSH25JSTASS develops ice on the back wall (inside) and stops freezing. Slowly as the ice builds up on the back wall, the temperature in the freezer and the refrig. also rises until the thermometer reads 40-50-60 in the freezer, and the refrig. is warm. It is on my homeowners warantee by Cross County and services by Appliance MD. It has been repaired about 6 or 7 times in the last 2 years. The refrig. is only 4 years old. The first time I was told it was the timer, then the terminator, and the last 4 times I have been told it is the mother board. It works for about 3 weeks when a new mother board is put in, and then it slowly begins to increase in temperature. In order to keep it going, I need to put dry ice in the freezer until the new part comes. The refrig. is only 4 years old. I can't believe that I have gotten 4 bad mother boards. In addition, the gasket around the doors doesn't seem to hold, and although the doors close tightly when they are first closed, after about 10 minutes they lose their resistance and open too easily. Hope you can help. The repairman tells me the doors have nothing to do with the ability to cool. Can you call me at 305.754.3097 if you have a solution?

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Ok, first off, replace all thermistors, freezer (2) & refrig (2). Then check that evap fan is working properly. This is a DC volt fan, not ac volt. There have been some issues with these, I would replace if problem continues.

How this box works, main control board monitors everything from how many times doors are open, how long they are open, how and when I/M drops ice, etc.... Every so many hours, depending on how many times the doors are open, you got ice thru the door, etc... it will shut down and go into defrost mode. When it is time for defrost mode it will run refrig into a "sub zero" state, shut down evap fan, run deeper into sub zero effect, shut down compressor when the thermistors say it's cold enough, turn on defrost heater that melts any frost in evap, then turn compressor back on for a few minutes, then turn evap fan back on. Most techs think that the mother board is defective when in fact the thermistors are not measuring temps correctly within the whole unit. If the thermistor say, hey mother board I'm only 60 degrees in the freezer, then it will keep running the compressor trying to get to zero or -1 or till the darn thing freezes up and stops moving air.

Find another tech to work on your unit, one that has some electronics background and/or computer knowledge. It takes a electronics & computer degree to work on these units and understand how they function.

Doors, some of the new frigs have magnetic door gaskets, if it is not staying shut, replace door gaskets. If door stay open or is leaking air (especially around ice shoot) it can cause some really weird stuff to occur, like thermistors saying I'm cold at the inlet to evap but not at the top of evap and mother board will try to correct it's self by running longer. One other thing about door gaskets, if the drain plug in the evap area is frozen or plugged up, doors won't shut properly and stay shut.

For one thousand dollars, I'll come to Florida and fix for you, 200 to fix refrig and the rest for a good time at Disney World (LOL). Good luck. Contact GE for repair on this unit if you can't get good results from your repairman. Their people, like me, go thru extensive training on these boxes. You can thank our goverment for the energy codes that have gone into effect over the years requiring mfgs to have to keep the cost of running these refrigs down as low as possible, the only way to do this was to computerize these boxes. Good luck

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GSH25JSTASS/0432/0165000/G0604755/00003?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=GSH25JSTASSthis is the parts that are behind the back inside freezer wall,look at 230,240 and 243 and on the outside back of the machine is the computer board part number wr55x10942,hopefully it won't be the board,shut down the machine and remove the back inside wall of the freezer,then go in the back and remove the cover of the mother board,you'll see a metal panel it's behind it,look at the bottom of the board,you'll see a gray plug with three connectors that it's plugged onto,you'll need a jumper wire with alligator clips on the ends,clip it on j9 and j11,this is the middle and the metal to the right in the gray plug,this will turn on the heater in the freezer,,plug the machine back in,if the heater comes on you have a bad board and change out the sensor if it has the black ring on it,no matter what you have to change the sensor if it has black on it,if it doesn't come on then check the thermostat and the heater,unplug the heater and check it for continuity,also look at the heater,if it looks black inside the glass change it out and change out the t-stat,if the heater is good check the t-stat,part number 240 in the picture,also you can cut the two wires going to the t-stat,connect them so you bypass the t-stat and jump out the board again,if the heater comes on the t-stat is bad and this is the most common part that goes,also if there's a white plastic ring around the top of the t-stat and it's popped up on one side it's bad,water got inside of it,froze up and pops the top off.here's a picture of the board and how to jump it out
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j9 and j11.and here's another picture that might help you http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/11/04/how-to-test-the-defrost-system-in-a-ge-arctica-or-profile-refrigerator/
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http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

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