Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer

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Corroded lip Just want to know how to remove the top section of washer so as to remove corrosion and repaint.

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Need to know what you are referring to as the top. Do you mean the lid or the chassis top.

The actual top section is bolted from the inside.

Posted on Jan 02, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Error code 5d on wirlpool cabrio


You may know this already but 5d means that the washer is detecting suds. So there actually should be SOME water all the time below the inner basket, but nothing that you can physically see. That being said, suds is just an error stating that there are either too many suds in the tub or the washer isn't draining properly. So I'm going to list both scenarios and what to do for each.

If you see water in the tub and it's not actually draining:

You'll need to tip the the washer backwards and unplug the unit so you can get under the washer. The drain pump is mounted to the back of the washer under the tub. It will need to be removed to check for any blockages. If you find nothing, then drain all the water out and try the washer again. If you get the error code again and you found nothing in the drain pump, you need to replace the drain pump itself.

If the washer is draining normally but still giving the error:

This means that the washer isn't sensing the water level properly. You'll need to remove the control panel and there is a main control board in the back right corner. The water level sensor is actually built into this board. Disconnect the small rubber hose connected to the control board and blow through the hose to make sure it's clear. Try the cycle again and if you continue to get the error, replace the control board. Below is a video that shows you how to replace the control board. The video is about an F1 error, but the control board in question is the same part, and replacement is the same so ignore the error.
CLICK HERE for video
The water causes the tub to float so you still need to check the drain line. If that checks good, then you need to check the tub bearing and see if it's good. If it's good, replace the control board still. If the shaft is rusted and the basket can't pull up and down easily, then you need to replace the parts or stand it down a bit.

Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle the issue with checking the basket for floating properly or not:

1. Unplug the power cord
2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.
3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn't get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.
4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outer edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.
5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pried off with a small screwdriver.
6. Remove the center screw under the cap.
7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabbing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.
8. Remove the 6 Phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don't drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.
9. Remove the plastic top gear.
10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.
11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outer lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.
12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.
13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. You may need to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inner bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.

-Answer from Tyler Z not myself

Jul 06, 2017 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Can "ol" error because by spongy floor tiles or a move?


If you've already tried putting it on a piece of 3/4" plywood, try running it with a small load. If the error persists you could have dislodged one or more of the tub suspension springs so open the top (like the hood of a car) and check the 4 springs. If the unit is old and the springs are worn they can be replaced.

May 28, 2014 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Getting an OL problem code


1. Unplug the power cord
2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.
3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn't get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.
4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outter edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.
5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pryed off with a small screwdriver.
6. Remove the center screw under the cap.
7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.
8. Remove the 6 phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don't drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.
9. Remove the plastic top gear.
10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.
11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outter lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.
12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.
13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. I had to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inned bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.
14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.

Dec 03, 2012 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The washing machine is rusted under the lid. How do I take the top off so that I can repaint? The model is RAX7245KQO. I need to take the top of the cabinet off to repaint. I need directions as to how to...


you have to use ether a screwdriver of a wedge in the seal about a inch below the top and pry up it is held by strong spring clips it will take some work when done you just pop it down unplug unit first hope this helps

Aug 30, 2010 | Roper RAX7244KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Winshield Fluid Container Leaks and repair shop said that the acid from the battery has corroded the container and this is a continual problem with the Yukon based on the fact that the container is located...


If you have the money try using a newer sealed battery. These new sealed batteries do not require fluid top ups and can not leak unless over charged (generally leading to them popping...). You do not want battery fluid leaking through your engine bay. At the extreme you will have to life out the engine and sand down then repaint the engine bay to stop corrosion and rust.
On to your leaking fluid container - I am not familiar with your model, however many of these containers are removable with just two screws, once removed they can be replaced with a cheap second hand one, or patched with a plastic filler. My choice would be the second hand replacement.

Dec 28, 2009 | 2005 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Spider bracket on back of S.S tub rotted away


this does not apply only to Kenmore brand machines, the 970 is manufactured by Frigidaire but to many others a s well.

I do not believe the 'rot' of the spider is galvanic corrosion but what is know as pitting or chemical corrosion.

Aluminium, and its alloys, are corroded when immersed in an aqueous solution with a pH value below about 4.0 (acidic) [nitric acid is a well known exception] or above about 8.0 (alkaline), most laundry aids, detergent including HE detergent, borax, bleach (sodium hypochlorite), sodium carbonate (washing soda), sodium percarbobante (found in Affresh and OxiClean [powder]), sodium hydroxide, Affresh and OxiClean can have pH values above 8.0 should the required concentrations be reached. At the normal operating levels found in washing machines these values are not exceeded. However when the machine is shut down any water remaining will contain, inter alia, soil from the laundry, products of the interactions between the soil and the laundry aids used, unused laundry aids, and the chemicals found in the tap water. As the water from this mixture evaporates the concentration of the 'impurities' rises until such time as a 'smelly sludge' develops and/or a pH level above about 8.0 is reached and corrosion occurs.

Prime areas for these deposits to occur are, in my opinion, the recesses found at, or very near, the hub of some of the aluminium alloys spiders found in front load washing machines. The final spin, no matter how fast, will not, in my opinion, remove all the 'water' from theses recesses.


To view a corroded spider (not to the point of catastrophic failure) and one with a build of 'smelly crud' please visit: -

http://www.ripoffreport.com/appliances/electrolux-home-prod/electrolux-home-products-n-am-4cd6d.htm

These spiders were removed from Frigidaire built 'Kenmore' machines.


To see fractured spiders from Frigidaire built machines, Whirlpool 'Duets' and other manufacturers' please visit: -

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/28/front-loading-washer-corrosion-contagion-a-menagerie-of-metallic-misery/

Or, for a Whirlpool spider

http://www.mysears.com/aboutme/jpm0940


Not all manufacturers use spiders with recesses, Speed Queen do not (Speed Queen call them trunnions) and photographs at: -

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?30834

show Miele spiderss without recesses. There may be others.


Should corrosion of the spider have occurred it is also my contention that it is highly likely that the principal product of this corrosion, aluminium oxide, will harbour 'water', as described above which, in time will turn foul smelling.


Additionally the main product of the spider corrosion is aluminium oxide, the same hard, abrasive material used as the 'grit' for some 'sandpapers. I believe that should some of this get into the wash water the soft lips of the spider shaft seal will not survive very long and once the seal has failed water an the aluminium oxide will get into the bearings and it is goodbye bearings.

There is a good paper on galvanic corrosion at: -
http://www.unene.ca/un1001/UN1001_Galvanic%20Corrosion.ppt
and a good, one page paper on what the author calls 'micro galvanic corrosion', I grew up calling it 'pitting corrosion'.

Apr 14, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Loose cabinet


take the screws off the control panel, then pop the 2 clips. cabinet will pull off. then put the front lip under the lower brace and lower it back onto frame. once you get it lined up snaps the clips back in place

Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Can't get top off kenmore washer model # 110 22852 100


No problem. What you want to do is this, remove the screws from the back panel first to remove that metal plate protecting the wires. Once off you need to take off the two covers on the sides of the control panel. There is one on each side, just pop them off. Once off you will see there is a screw under there holding the control panel in place. Remove the screws and that will lean back. Next take a flat head screw driver and put it under the lip of the lid on the front of the washer. I mean the lip that is about an inch down from the top on the front. Pry up and the whole lid will pop up. You will see the lid switch there held in by a screw, follow the wire to where it plugs in and unplug it and replace with the new one. Let me know if you have any other questions and if this was helpful to you. Always happy to help and good luck.

Jan 23, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Eljer slantback lavatory faucet


use baking soda to remove the corrosion mix a little in apaper cup and brush on with toth brush

I do not have a clear picture but can you not put two screw drivers under the lip of the chrome and pry up

One other thought is to tap the top adapter with a hammer to see if it will break loose

Dec 19, 2008 | Plumbing

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