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I have had a AD75UST0 WHIRLPOOL Dehumidifier for several years. I had mine ice up once or twice particularly on very high humidity days > 90%. Once it thawed out. I was able to remove the filter. Most likely it is due to dust getting on coils & condenser Or actually has a Freon leak. to resolve the dirty coils you can easily dissemble (that is remove front & rear cover) it to give coils and condenser a good thorough cleaning. It the coils and condenser are not at all dirty, then is not the cause of the icing. The units are typically not serviceable - i.e. a disposable small appliance.
The most common cause of frost and ice buildup on a dehumidifier is
because the unit is operating in temperatures that are too cold. Many
dehumidifiers are not equipped to run at temperatures below 65 degrees
Fahrenheit. To fix this problem, Position the dehumidifier in an area where there is at least one foot of
clearance around the unit in order to allow for proper air circulation
during its operation. Close all windows, doors and other outside
openings to make sure your unit isn't attempting to remove moisture from
areas outside of the immediate room. Determine the temperature of the room by checking a nearby thermostat or
by using a hand-held thermometer.
Check the filter for dirt and buildup. Unplug the unit from the
electrical source and check the filter by opening the filter
compartment. If the filter is dirty, it will restrict airflow through
the unit and lead to freezing. Soleus recommends lightly vacuuming the
surface of the filter to remove dirt. The filter also can be washed in
warm water if it is extremely dirty. Once clean, place the filter back
in its compartment. Allow for the ice to melt and then restart your
Often times, a clogged filter will cause them to freeze up. Because, it's not getting enough air into the system to warm the coils. If you haven't cleaned the filter recently or regularly, that is more than likely the problem. Other than that, the ambient room temperature can play a role in it. If it's cooler than 41 degrees, the humidifier struggles. Same is true if it's over 93 degrees.
A dehumidifier works just the way an air conditioner works
but in a reverse manner. If you encounter a problem with your
dehumidifier then it would be repaired the same way you would repair an
air conditioner. As such a dehumidifier does not require much cleaning
apart from changing the filter.
When the filter and coils of the dehumidifier are choked with dirt,
it may not pull out moisture from the air properly. The efficiency of
the dehumidifier gets decreased and the only solution is, to clean it
thoroughly. In order to assist you with the cleaning procedure of a
dehumidifier, following are a few tips:
Remove the water tank/container and clean it after
draining the water. Depending on the usage the container must be
Cleaning or changing the filter is also important for the main function
of ensuring a healthy atmosphere is performed by the filter. Mix some
bleach with warm soapy and clean the filter. It will help to get rid of
the bacteria, molds and mildew.
Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the evaporative coil/hot coil. Scrub off
the dirt using a brush but make sure that you don’t bend the fins while
Clean the condenser or the cold coil the same way. If the humidifier is
working in a room where the temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit
then check the coils whether it is not icing up.
See to it whether the fins are bent or not, if they are bent then
straighten them out using a fin comb otherwise it might obstruct the
effective working of the dehumidifier.
And yes do not forget to clean the fan blades and other parts of the dehumidifier.
Keeping in mind the humidity level of your room, sets the humidistat of
the dehumidifier as keeping it too low or too high may only make the
dehumidifier to run longer than necessary.
Also before you start with the work of cleaning the dehumidifier, make sure that it has been unplugged.
My unit is a Fedders A7DH65B2A and your Maytag unit was made by Fedders and is just like mine w/ different label... I've purchased two of these units (one for me & one for my father-in-law) and they both quit pulling moisture from the air (but ran constantly) about 1 month past the 1yr warranty.
My unit also acted really strange one day when the problem was occurring - it flashed on & off erratically and wouldn't power off unless I pulled the power cord.
In short, I took it apart and found several issues and eventually figured out the chain of events that led to this:
1) The thermistor went bad and the unit could no longer sense when the evaporator coil started freezing up (normal situation that the unit should detect & then do a defrost cycle). As a result, the evaporator coil turned itself into a big chunk of ice (can see by removing the air filter and looking into that slot at the coil (looks like a radiator).
2) the big block of ice on the coil grew large enough to start making contact with part of the plastic housing above the evap coil that's used for the power control circuit board. The plastic in that area then got ice all over it and since it looks like a little tray, it will hold water (when the ice thaws) and then the power control board will be sitting in a puddle of water (or ice - either will cause malfuntions like not being able to turn the power off using the front panel switch).
3) the puddle of water in the power control board tray caused this circuit board to corrode (happens very quickly when the unit is plugged in since electricity accelerates this kind of thing...).
So... a poor quality thermistor (this straps to the bottom right side of the copper pipe that loops out & back in to the evap coil and has a wire coming out of if) caused premature defrost circuit failure. This caused a big block of ice to form where it shouldn't be. The ice caused condensation/moisture/ice to form on/under the power control circuit board and corroded the circuit board and caused erratic power control issues.
RepairClinic.com had a replacement sensor board (included all sensors - yes, the thermistor too...) so I purchased it (~$40) and used only the new thermistor off of it to plug into my original sensor board (and strapped it back to the evap coil w/ the chrome looking clip that was already there). Problem fixed! Well, almost... I did have to clean the corrosion off my power control board as well, but it survived luckily.
After doing this to mine, my father-in-laws unit experienced similar symptoms. I did the same fix to his and presto... fixed.
Cheap low quality thermistors on these units. I need to find a higher quality replacement thermistor before round 2 happens on each unit.