I took the panel off the back of the fridge as I followed the noise to the circuit board. The circuit board is making a clicking noise... I think the fridge is not working. How do I know if the entire circuit board needs to be replaced or just ''one'' thing on the circuit board?
Re: The circuit board is making a clicking noise... I
I fixed my motherboard.
Board WKKT Model 0158-00-04
Board GEA Part 200D4854G013
I replaced both 47uF x 400V capacitors - one of them was bulged. The bad one was open, and the other still had it's nominal value.
I tryed to make the refrigerator work, to no avail.
After a careful inspection, i replaced both 470uF x 25V capacitor (c29 and c30, i guess - near the 7805 regulator). Both had around 0.5% of their original value, and i belive it was the source of the problem.
Everytime the processor tried to start the relay, the power level dropped and the motherboard "rebooted"... and thus the cycles and clicks from the relay.
The refrigerator got back to life!
There was a recall by GE on November, 2006.
Call GE at 18003861215, option 3. Mention the recall and maybe it's still valid a free replacement.
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Is it still cooling? I had an issue where there was a clicking noise from the back panel and the fridge did not cool. Pulling off the panel the noise seemed to from a box on the circuit board. Turns out there was a problem with the controler board and after some research I found that the board was covered under a recall. GE ended up sending a guy out to replace the board at no charge. Pretty cool being that if was after the warranty had expired; but I guess it makes sence since there was a recall. Good luck.
The clicking is from the main control board relays clicking off and on . The part number you need is WR55X10656 . This board is located on the back , behind an 9X10 inch aluminum panel . It controls the digital display along with all other operational parts of the fridge .
flickering noises??? are they working at all. or are tehy flickering on/off along with the noiise. id be willling to bet that if you removed the back panel from behind the refrig, youll find a control board mounted on the left side(when lookin at from behind) alongside the compresssor assy in a white box. if thats the case that, that there is a board there and your lights are not functioning and you hear "chattering" when the doors open you have a faulty board, look up via model number and replace it
Had the same problem on my GE bottom freezer fridge. It finally died a few days ago. The clicking came from a relay on the main circuit board under a access cover on the back of the fridge. Ordered a new circuit card from GE ($157.50 + ship/handeling), replaced it, and the fridge works great. I have an electronics background but if you take your time and are safe, I think anybody would be able to change it.
Same issue with my 6 yr old Maytag side-by-side model #MSD2756GEW. Turned out it was caused by a faulty circuit board. This circuit board is located in the upper right fridge section. Apparently these boards are sensitive to power surges (which we have here in central Texas from time to time.) When the circuit board is fried, it makes a noise like a fan blade malfunctioning and it stops the auto defrost feature in the freezer from working. So the freezer ices up at the back, and the ice prevents the cold air from reaching the fridge section.
Our circuit board (which we thought was a fan) made ominous noises for a few months. (The noise would last only a minute or so and stop shortly after we opened a door). Eventually we noticed that the fridge wasn't as cold and the freezer had snow in it. Finally the board stopped making noise and about a week or so afterward we noticed that the milk had spoiled and the fridge wasn't very cold. The food in the freezer side pretty solidly frozen, thankfully.
In addition to replacing the circuit board, the fridge had to be de-iced or it would not work properly. I put it all frozen into a large camping cooler where it stayed for several hours. I opened the freezer doors and put table fan and pointed a hobby light which gets quite hot, at the back of the freezer. Within 3 hours, the ice had melted significantly so I could see through the grate at the back of the freezer. This really great technician named Tracy, made a special trip to the parts store to get the circuit board and came back within a couple hours, bringing with him a steamer. He removed the back panel inside the freezer section (the coils are behind there) and used the steamer to melt the rest of the ice before he left.
Tracey, who works for a local appliance repair company, told me that about 4 years ago, Maytag started making their fridges with built-in surge protection, so the circuit boards apparently don't get fried on the newer models as they do on my 6 yr old model. He recommended that we put plug the fridge into a heavy-duty surge protector - which we are definitely going to do.