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Re: six hours to make eight cubes???
Clean the coils under the refrig . Dirty coils can raise the temp of the freezer slightly , food will still freeze ( freezes at 32 degrees ) , but an icemaker will only work at around 5 degrees . Also , let the ice build up close to the ice maker , as this will put the coldness of the ice , closer to the mold , and it will make ice faster when being used .
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I can't make out the words in your picture so there is not a lot of information to go on, but I will give it a try. If yours is like my refridgerator, there are a couple of off switches for the ice maker. One is on the control panel like the one you tried to photograph. Mine selects crushed ice, cubed ice, or ice off. The other soff switch is the lever switch that sits over the ice cube reservoir inside the freezer and shuts off the ice maker when the reservoir is full. If this lever switch is stuck in the up position you will make no ice. You say that water runs out of the front. Another problem that I once had with my ice maker was that the plastic housing around the ice cube tray cracked. One tray of ice cubes was made but when the ice maker flipped the tray over to expel the ice cubes the cracked plastic prevented any torque on the tray and the ice cubes would not come out. When the tray returned to the upright position new water would flow onto the tray, but since it was already full of ice cubes the water would simply overflow into the ice bucket reservoir. It did this over and over until I had an ice sculpture in my freezer and reservoir instead of ice cubes.
Notwithstanding the ABSENCE of MAKE+MODEL...
(REFRIGERATER or ICEMAKER)...
Nothing came through with your "question"... ERGO
Most, generally & typically should be in front of everything that looks or sounds like a FACT.
Every ICE MAKER (I've ever worked on)has an on/off control...
Find it... turn it off, on, off & on several times (cycle the switch
(like lower the FILL wire ... or operate the on/off switch)).
ICE-MAKER heads are a relatively simple device with motor driven electro-mechanical sequencers that time water fill (adjustable), cube "done-ness" ((firmness by adjustable temperature)... and then "operate the fill valve... fill the tray...
Rotate the tray and eject the cubes.. refill with water...
If you can see or feel ice in your TRAY your...
you have NO ISSUE with your WATER VALVE...
To test this... use an ordinary water bottle and Put some water in your ICE TRAY...
Check back in an hour ...if your cubes have been NOT deposited into your ice bin... your ice-maker is turned off, has a open fuse or is defective & needs repair.
If it has ejected your cubes but you have not been refilled your WATER VALVE is defective... replace it.
When the bucket is full the arm is up the maker is off.
If the ice maker has a on/off button in off the ice maker is off
If the ice maker internal heater fails the cubes will not release and the white plastic ejector arms will be rotated CCW and pressing against the ice in the tray, Normal position for ejector arms is vertical.
If water solenoid has failed or water supply not available the ice maker will cycle. The ice tray will be empty,(hard to see if ice tray is empty). Check and replace water fill solenoid.
If ice in tray and ejector arms vertical several possibilities.
Freezer not cold enough to trip thermostat in ice maker to initiate release cycle.
Check freezer temperature <10 Fahrenheit thermostat in ice maker failure
The best way to check the operation is to manually lock the arm up into the off retention position. Wait a minimum of one hour. Open door and release arm down. Observe the operation of the ice maker. Is after a minute or so the ejector arm does not rotate then it is likely the ice maker has failed internally. If the ejector turns and no ice than you can assume either the water supply is off external from the refrigerator or more likely the water solenoid located behind the bottom back cover has failed. It is also possible that the hose that connects the solenoid to the ice maker has frozen right where it enters the freezer just above the ice maker. You should see ice built up at the entrance where the water fills the tray if this has occurred.
Check if the unit has a cold water dispenser that it will fill a cup. If so than problem is with Ice Maker. If not than problem is with water supply to unit.
If water to machine works make sure that the arm on the ice maker is in the down position. If it is up it will disable the ice making unit. Cycle the am a few times to insure that the switch connected to the arm has not gotten stuck in the off position.
On some ice makers there is a separate switch to disable the Ice maker usually right on the ice-maker not easily missed.
It is possible that the water feed tube into the Ice Maker has become frozen where it enters into the back of the freezer at the top. You can look through to see where the water fills into the cube tray. If ice is present it would be an indication that the feed tube has become frozen If suspected the safest way to fix would be to turn off the unit and allow for a manual defrost.
Next check the operation of the ice maker. Locate the arm in the up position prohibiting the ice maker from cycling. Wait three hours or more. Open freezer door and return the arm into the down position. After a few minutes you should observe the ice fingers rotating to release the cubes into the tray. If the fingers do not rotate I would suspect the ice maker or the connecting electrical circuit. Remember after dropping the arm the Ice Maker has to warm up to melt the ice cubes from the tray before the fingers are told to rotate,
If the fingers rotate then I would expect that the water supply solenoid has failed inside of the unit near to the location the the water supply is made. Replacing this part needs to be done by a qualified experienced technician.
Depending on the ice maker style, they typically work off a motor timer. The timer motor rotates to set up the ice making process... starting with letting water into an empty ice mold tray, allowing ample time for that water to freeze and then to rotate that mold so that the cubes fall out into the bin. In conjunction with that process, a small heater is turned on to release the frozen cubes from the tray. The 'ice tray full' lever signals the system to stop making ice so you may want to verify that the lever is down and not causing the ice maker to stop, If that's down then I suggest you monitor the position of the motor gearset underneath an access cover. With power applied, the gears should rotate and cycle thru an ice making process. If it does and ice fails to fall out, your heater may be defective. Hope that helps...