I have two ballast inside a metal junction box. The larger on feeds two ''UV'' lights and the smaller one feeds one ''UV'' light. The lights do not come on at all with the larger ballast and the light with the smaller ballast just blinks on and off. Any suggestions? Is there a way to test a ballast to see if it is working properly?
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There are two fuse's , one is in the under hood fuse /relay center or as ford calls it Battery junction block and one in the central junction block Blown fuse(s): Battery junction box (BJB) Fuse 6 (15A) and central junction box (CJB) Fuse 18 (5A ,on the lids are the # locations .Are you saying that nothing lights , radio, heater controls , back lighting for the instrument cluster . No check engine light, or any other warning lights . Do all the gauges work ? CJB is located left side of dash . Check the fuse's !
First, turn off power to the rangehood. Check the contact resistance of the light switch(es) with an ohmmeter. It should be less than 0.1 Ohms. If you get a substantially higher resistance in the on position, the switch contact is burned out. Also, inspect the wiring harness connector and the connections to the light fixtures. If they show signs of overheating, the connection resistance is too high. You can try polishing the connector contacts to remove oxidation. I use a pencil eraser for mild cases and a non-metallic dry scouring pad (3M Scotch-Brite) for more severely tarnished contacts. In the worst case it will be necessary to replace the terminals or connector.
According to the drawing for this series on the Qasair website, the unit uses fluorescent lamps rather than the halogen lamps referred to in the lamp installation instructions. If this is true, it is likely the ballast has failed (if the lamps have separate switches, they probably have separate ballasts also). If the original ballast model is no longer available, make sure the replacement has at least as high a maximum temperature rating as the original. This is especially critical for electronic ballasts. You can extend the life of the new ballasts by making sure the fans are running before turning on the lights - this should reduce the ambient operating temperature inside the hood.
One is under the hood under a flip up black cover near the battery. This one is called the battery junction box.
The fuse panel inside the car is located below and to the left of the steering
wheel by the brake pedal. You will need to remove the panel cover below the steering column to access the fuses. This one is called the central junction box.
If you need further help in locating the panels, ask me here in a comment. Thank you for using FixYa.
Yes, ultraviolet (UV) eye protection matters. UV radiation from the sun can damage not only the skin of your eyelid but also the cornea, lens and other parts of the eye. UV exposure also contributes to the development of certain types of cataracts. When you're choosing sunglasses, look for UV-protection details on product labels. Choose sunglasses that block 99 to 100 percent of both UVA and UVB rays. Skip sunglasses that are labeled "cosmetic" and those that don't offer details on UV protection. Opt for larger lenses rather than smaller lenses - or, better yet, the wraparound variety.
they're speaking of fuseable links. They are larger gauge wires that are in the wiring harness near the battery off the positive battery cable. many times they have "swollen" junctions where they connect to the wiring itself and contain the fuseable element. they carry larger multi-circuit feeds to important components like the fuse box. use a simple light (lamp) driven test light to check them before and after the swollen part of the fuseable link. when you find the bad one replace with an actual fuseable link and not just a big wire because if a short exists (say at the back of the fuse panel) an unfused feed will burn up the panel or even do more damage to the wiring harness, and the cost of the repairs will soar. fire is even a possibility. NOTE: toyota vans often have very long and expensive battery cables, perhaps even "junctions" where one connects to the next. check these cables while disconnected with an ohm meter or by bypassing them with jumper cables. keep a fire extinguisher handy should something go wrong.
I usually test the ballast simply by excluding everything else.
1) Put in bulb that you know works
2) Replace starter (if you have one)
3) check that wiring is intact (sounds like it is for you but I had one light that the wiring barely made contact so sometimes it came on and sometimes it blinked)
4) If all that is good, then it's probably the ballast.
on the passenger side inside the wheel well there is a high current relay for the air compressor it is a silver metal relay assy 4 wire plug two smaller wire are the relay power two larger wires are compressor feed. if you jump the two larger wires and the compressor works check the smaller wires for power and ground if ok the relay is bad. usually these relays go bad due to compressor drawing high current and usually need to be replaced