Question about Peavey PV-3800 2-Channel Amplifier

1300 W/ch @ 4 ohms

775 W/ch @ 8 ohms

2650 W bridged @ 8 ohms

I found a retailer that provided this data - found below:

http://www.zzounds.com/item--PEVPV3800

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

Hi,

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.

best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).

click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

1st thing is amps outputs have to be properly "loaded" this value is given in "ohms" if your amp says minimum speaker "loading" impedance is 4 ohms ( I suspect it does) then you may load that 1 channel down to only 4 ohms or amp will be damaged , most speakers are rated in ohm's Impedance (look for Greek symbol for omega) look for its rating somewhere on it doing the electrical formula math if you connect two 4 ohm speakers in parallel to one channel ( +=+ / -/- ) this divides down to 2 ohms (not good) but if you take same speakers and connect in series together (+to-/+to-) this gives you eight ohms (better) , the watts rating is a figure for you to determine the amount of power the speakers will take before failure , hence just because you connect 200 watt speakers to a 2000 watt amp is no indication that speaker will take all 2000 watts ( it will fail long before that point ) watts do ADD together like the above example two 4 ohm 250 watt speakers connected to one channel of amp in series will look like ONE 8 ohm 500 watt speaker to amp of course over 16 ohms load speaker volume will greatly diminish and amps have max impedance loads for them as well although there not often published

this is why I love the old TUBE!!! amps they load all the way down to 2 ohms and go up as far as 32 ohms load with no problems , they sound better as well across the board as well

this is why I love the old TUBE!!! amps they load all the way down to 2 ohms and go up as far as 32 ohms load with no problems , they sound better as well across the board as well

Sep 10, 2015 | Sony Car Audio & Video

On the compressor will be FLA, full load amps, starting, and RLA , run load amps, running amps.

Nov 27, 2013 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

Jan 2013

1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.

Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps

Compare amp load with circuit breaker.

20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.

Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.

Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.

Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps

Compare amp load with circuit breaker.

20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.

Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.

Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

Jan 18, 2013 | Electrical Supplies

Volts x amps= watts.

20 amp breaker x 125 volts = 2500 watts.

However, electrician use the 80% rule, so multiply 2500 x 80% = 2000 watts.

So if you have 20 amp breaker, and 12 gauge wire, and 20 amp switch, and distance is less than 150 feet, then watt load is 2000 watts or 400 5-watt bulbs.

Keep in mind that most switches are 15 amp, and not 20 amp.

Recalculate for 15 amp switch = 1875 watts x 80% = 1500 watts or 300 5-watt bulbs.

20 amp breaker x 125 volts = 2500 watts.

However, electrician use the 80% rule, so multiply 2500 x 80% = 2000 watts.

So if you have 20 amp breaker, and 12 gauge wire, and 20 amp switch, and distance is less than 150 feet, then watt load is 2000 watts or 400 5-watt bulbs.

Keep in mind that most switches are 15 amp, and not 20 amp.

Recalculate for 15 amp switch = 1875 watts x 80% = 1500 watts or 300 5-watt bulbs.

Jun 22, 2012 | Home

This generator is a 5KW model. This means it can supply up to 5000 watts of power, total. Not all devices list the watts they need to be provided - instead these devices list the power they need as volts and amps. This can make it hard to determine what the actual watt requirements are for the device.

Overly simplified, watts is equal volts times amps (watts = volts x amps). A single 120 volt light bulb that uses .833 amps consumes 100 watts. If you checked a regular 100 watt light bulb with an ammeter, you'd find it does indeed draw .833 amps.

Working the formula a different way, we can learn how many amps this 5000 watt generator can supply at 120 volts, too. If all the loads you need to connect to this generator are 120 volt types, that means the total amount of amps the generator can supply is 5000 watts / 120 volts = 41 amps purely resistive loads (like a toaster or light bulb) maximum under ideal conditions. There is never a time when ideal actually happens, and not all loads are purely resistive - many are inductive. Inductive loads are motors (like your A/C), fluorescent lamps, computer power supplies, etc. - so figure more like around 30 amps total instead.

If you try to connect devices that require more than 30 - 35 amps, the generator will probably have problems trying to supply this load for any longer that a short length of time. Additionally, motors like those in A/C compressors draw significantly more power when first starting and can cause the problem you are describing. Try running the generator with loads other then the A/C to see how well it can supply the load(s). Or try running only 1 A/C unit and other non-A/C loads.

What I'm trying to tell you is that you may need to do some active load management to be sure that you aren't trying to get more power out of the generator than it is capable of supplying. You may need additional generators or swap this one to a larger size to handle the load properly and safely.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Overly simplified, watts is equal volts times amps (watts = volts x amps). A single 120 volt light bulb that uses .833 amps consumes 100 watts. If you checked a regular 100 watt light bulb with an ammeter, you'd find it does indeed draw .833 amps.

Working the formula a different way, we can learn how many amps this 5000 watt generator can supply at 120 volts, too. If all the loads you need to connect to this generator are 120 volt types, that means the total amount of amps the generator can supply is 5000 watts / 120 volts = 41 amps purely resistive loads (like a toaster or light bulb) maximum under ideal conditions. There is never a time when ideal actually happens, and not all loads are purely resistive - many are inductive. Inductive loads are motors (like your A/C), fluorescent lamps, computer power supplies, etc. - so figure more like around 30 amps total instead.

If you try to connect devices that require more than 30 - 35 amps, the generator will probably have problems trying to supply this load for any longer that a short length of time. Additionally, motors like those in A/C compressors draw significantly more power when first starting and can cause the problem you are describing. Try running the generator with loads other then the A/C to see how well it can supply the load(s). Or try running only 1 A/C unit and other non-A/C loads.

What I'm trying to tell you is that you may need to do some active load management to be sure that you aren't trying to get more power out of the generator than it is capable of supplying. You may need additional generators or swap this one to a larger size to handle the load properly and safely.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Apr 09, 2011 | Watts Onan Portable Generator - 5000 ,...

Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Mar 09, 2011 | Electronics - Others

Your manual says only plug 20Amp loads into each 120 receptical. See manual at: http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=fequxHX-nfBhU7y

that would be 4 recepticals tmes 20 = 80 Amps'

80 Amps times 120 V = 9,600 Watts This means that you cannot hook up all 4 outlets at the same time as that would overload the generator all you can hook up would be 2 outlets of up to max of 23 Amps

The manual restricts you to each load no more than 20 amps because some devices such as drills, water pumps exceed their running load upon start up, and would exceed the 20 Amps momentarily, thus 23 amps.

The maximum power load of the generator is 5000 watts and 20 amps at each outlet.

You certainly are within the useful range.

Volts time Amps = Watts

that would be 4 recepticals tmes 20 = 80 Amps'

80 Amps times 120 V = 9,600 Watts This means that you cannot hook up all 4 outlets at the same time as that would overload the generator all you can hook up would be 2 outlets of up to max of 23 Amps

The manual restricts you to each load no more than 20 amps because some devices such as drills, water pumps exceed their running load upon start up, and would exceed the 20 Amps momentarily, thus 23 amps.

The maximum power load of the generator is 5000 watts and 20 amps at each outlet.

You certainly are within the useful range.

Volts time Amps = Watts

Jan 10, 2011 | Briggs & Stratton Briggs and Stratton...

If there are 8 in number t8 then there can be 8 wired.

Nov 12, 2009 | Leviton Decora Illumatech Slide Dimmer...

Hello montyski20,

The amp outputs 500 watts RMS into 4ohms, 750 watts RMS into 2ohms and 1000 RMS into 1ohm.

The L7 can handle 750 watts RMS (375 watts per each coil). If your L7 is the 2ohm version, you should wire the voice coils in series, the positive marked coil to the negative unmarked coil. Then connect the remaining positive and negative to the amp terminals. This gives you a 4ohm load (500 watts). If your L7 is the 4ohm version, wire the voice coils in parallel, both marked and unmarked positives together, likewise both negatives and then to the amp terminals. This gives a 2ohm load (750 watts).

Paralleling the 2ohm sub will result in a 1ohm load (1000 watts) and that is too much for the L7.

Hope this helps.

The amp outputs 500 watts RMS into 4ohms, 750 watts RMS into 2ohms and 1000 RMS into 1ohm.

The L7 can handle 750 watts RMS (375 watts per each coil). If your L7 is the 2ohm version, you should wire the voice coils in series, the positive marked coil to the negative unmarked coil. Then connect the remaining positive and negative to the amp terminals. This gives you a 4ohm load (500 watts). If your L7 is the 4ohm version, wire the voice coils in parallel, both marked and unmarked positives together, likewise both negatives and then to the amp terminals. This gives a 2ohm load (750 watts).

Paralleling the 2ohm sub will result in a 1ohm load (1000 watts) and that is too much for the L7.

Hope this helps.

Aug 02, 2009 | PPI DCX-1500.1 Car Audio Amplifier

Hello monkey_flea,
Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle.
Hope this helps.

Jun 03, 2009 | Infinity Reference 1211a Car Audio...

127 people viewed this question

Usually answered in minutes!

×