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How to apply an electric drill? how to used the electric drill?

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Hi there,

Please follow the below steps to use a electric drill -

1. Determine which electric drill is best for you, the cord or cordless. The electric drill that has a cord attached needs to have an outlet which might limit you according to what job you are doing. The cordless drill is limitless and can be used anywhere without needing an outlet. Corded drills can be more powerful, where cordless drills are limited to power and can sometimes be a bit bulky.

2. Consider most of the jobs you may use an electric drill for. If you have a lot of heavy-duty projects ahead, you might want to purchase a more powerful drill. They run slower but have the power behind them to get the job done efficiently. The more powerful drills usually have a cord attached to them. If you have a lot of lightweight jobs to use a drill for, then a cordless one may be your best selection.

3. Arrange the work to be drilled either straight ahead of you or down below you. These are the two safest ways to use a drill. The drill is also more secure and won't waver while using it. If the material you are drilling is a hard or thick material, use a hole punch to start the hole before you drill.

4. Push the drill slightly as you are drilling to give a bit of added force. Start out slowly, and as the hole progresses, increase the speed slightly.

Tip -
Secure your work before drilling by using clamps. The more powerful the drill, the slower it drills. The less powerful the drill, the faster it drills.

Warning -
If you are using a cordless drill, charge the power pack before starting a job. Keep the air vents on the drill clean, and clear of any debris so the drill does not overheat.

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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No 110 voltage


Check the circuit breakers for a tripped one. If all OK, then the brushes may need to be replaced. Here's a tip on how to flash the field in the generator: This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department. As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash the generator:
  • Plug the electric drill into the generator receptacle. (Cordless drills do not work)
  • If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward position.
  • Start the generator
  • While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in reverse direction. This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the reverse switch positioned backwards.
Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck. As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and the drill will turn on.
The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.
If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field flash your generator if needed

Aug 11, 2016 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

The instruction manual says to insert a drill bit all the way but small drill bits, such as my 3mm masonry bit are to short to do that and still function. Then when I use the hammer drill function, t


If you are drilling in masonry with a masonry bit you don't need to have the hammer function on
Just put it on reg drill and just apply a little pressure you will start to see dust come up when you have applied the correct amount.

Have a Great Day.

Nov 25, 2014 | Drills

1 Answer

What is the causes and remedies of drilling fault such as drill breaking


Drills (bits) typically break when too much force is applied at an angle to the workpiece. To reduce breakage, drilling should be perpendicular to the work.
If one is attempting to drill at an angle, less force should be used. A dull bit will always require more force when drilling. Angled holes should be drilled with a sharp bit to reduce the possibility of breakage.

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How do I "drill" rivets out of the power window motor and assembly in my 2002 chevy cavalier sport ls coupe?


Use an electric drill with a suitable bit and apply it directly to the rivet heads. It can be a tedious job but necessary if you need to replace the window motor.

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1 Answer

Trying to get the ignition tumbler unit out of a 1993 Ford Taurus at the junkyard. worked at it most of two days but no luck yet so I must be missing something having never tried this before.


Ignition Lock Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Functional Lock The following procedure applies to vehicles that have functional lock cylinders. Such cylinders either have a key available or known key numbers from which a key can be made.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Turn the lock cylinder key to the RUN position.
  3. Using a 1?8 in. (3mm) diameter wire pin or a small drift, depress the lock cylinder retaining pin through the access hole in the upper steering column shroud (under the ignition lock cylinder) while pulling out on the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder from the column. Fig. 1: Using the key, turn the ignition lock cylinder to the RUN position, then depress the retaining pin using a wire pin or small drift 86878085.gif
    To install:
  4. Install the lock cylinder by turning it to the RUN position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into its housing. Make sure the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will permit the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder housing.
  5. Rotate the lock cylinder using the lock cylinder key, to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Non-Functional Lock The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number or a lock cylinder cap that has been damaged and/or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated. 1986-90 VEHICLES
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the steering wheel. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  3. Remove the two trim shroud halves after removing the three attaching screws.
  4. Disengage the electrical connector from the key warning switch.
  5. Using a 1?8 in. (3mm) diameter drill, carefully drill out the retaining pin, being careful not to drill deeper than 1?2 in. (13mm).
  6. Place a suitable chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap, then, using a suitable hammer, strike the chisel with sharp blows to break the cap away from the lock cylinder.
  7. Using a 3?8 in. (10mm) diameter drill, carefully drill down the middle of the ignition key slot approximately 1 3?4 in. (44mm) until the lock cylinder breaks loose from its breakaway base. Remove the lock cylinder and drill shavings from the lock cylinder housing.
  8. Remove the retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. Thoroughly clean all the drill shavings from the casting.
  9. Inspect the lock cylinder housing for damage from the removal operation. To install:
  10. Replace the lock cylinder housing if it was damaged.
  11. Install the actuator and ignition switch.
  12. Install the trim and electrical parts.
  13. Install a new ignition lock cylinder.
  14. Install the steering wheel. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Check the lock cylinder operation.
1991-95 VEHICLES
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Using locking pliers, twist the cylinder cap until it separates from the lock cylinder.
  4. Using a 3?8 in. (10mm) diameter drill bit, drill down the middle of the ignition lock key slot approximately 1 3?4 in. (44mm) until the lock cylinder releases from its breakaway base. Remove the lock cylinder and drill shavings from the lock cylinder housing.
  5. Remove the retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from the casting.
  6. Inspect the lock cylinder housing for damage from the removal operation. If the housing is damaged, it must be replaced. To install:
  7. Replace the lock cylinder housing, if damaged.
  8. Install the actuator and ignition switch.
  9. Install the trim and electrical parts.
  10. Install the ignition lock cylinder.
  11. Install the steering wheel.
  12. Connect the negative battery cable, then check the lock cylinder operation.
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1993 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

How to flash or remagnitize Coleman Powermate 6875 or Husky 40500


Field Flashing of Portable Generators This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department. As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash the generator:
  • Plug the electric drill into the generator receptacle. (Cordless drills do not work)
  • If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward position.
  • Start the generator
  • While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in reverse direction. This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the reverse switch positioned backwards.
Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck. As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and the drill will turn on.
The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.
If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field flash your generator if needed - Bruce Perrault

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2 Answers

How is a driver different from a drill? What


Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
Most modern battery powered drills incorporate a torque clutch between the motor and the chuck so that the tool can be operated as a drill (with the torque setting at "max") or as a driver (with the torque setting at less than max) some electric tools are configured as both, but usually they are different. For the money, a good battery powered drill/driver with a clutch offers more versatility, in my opinion.
Best regards, --W/D--

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