Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
My washing machine doesnt drain completely after spinning .... and then goes on to the next cycle .... . and never stops ...
If I manually bring it back to the spin, it'll finish draining.... so
its probably partially clogged I'm guessing.
but the larger problem remains that once it hits rinse... spin .. and then stop ... it keeps going past the stop and into the next wash cycle .. which is perma press... and then once its done that, it'll go on to the next one.
I've taken the circle dial thing out and looked at it.. doesnt look broken from what I can tell... Maybe something with the timer?
Its a whirlpool Thin twin stacked washer/dyer. Washer is on the bottom, dyer is on the top.
We are very sorry to hear this and we apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you. We would be glad to look into this if you could email us at Whirlpool_Digital@Whirlpool.com with your name, address, phone number and the model & serial numbers of the laundry center.
Posted on Jun 20, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem I have with my Whirlpool ThinTwin is that when I pull the washer knob the water does not start filling even though there is water in the apartment unit. The dryer works so i know there is power and not a circuit breaker issue as I have checked that as well.
When I turn the knob and pull in any position nothing happens. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
In the back of your thin twin dryer is a small white flat fuse attached with a screw, a clip, and two spade clips and wires. This is a thermal fuse and if tripped will cause your dryer to do nothing. Check with multimeter for continuity and replace if necessary. Also inside machine is a black tubular capacitor that will cause dryer to not run. Again, remove after properly discharging capacitor. Using multimeter check capacitor for continuity and potential. Obviously disconnect all power to machine before even thinking about repair. 240 volts will kill you dead.
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
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