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I have a Kenmore 110.62822100, I measure 240 VAC from the Wall Plug and 240 VAC on the terminal Block, I also measure power to the Heating element, but still NO HOT Air.

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Having proper voltage to the terminal block and heating element is a start. You need to perform resistance checks on your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), Hi-Limit Thermostat and Heating Element with the dryer unplugged to determine the cause of your no heat problem. The following link explains how to troublehshoot a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

NOTE: The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is mounted at the opposite end of the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals. Both these components should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If either of these components is bad, it is strongly recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time to prevent premature failure. That's why these parts are commnly sold together as a kit.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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It could indeed be the elements that are the problem if the elements are bad generally you will see a section of it that looks different than the rest(kinda looks like textured stucco if bad) if that isn't the case the elements must be tested to see if the proper power is going to them, you could do that by TURNING OFF POWER AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER unscrew the element from the back wall of oven and pull element out about 6 inches out, attach a voltage meter set to measure at least 240 volts ac to the two wires, turn on breaker set oven to back and check for 240 vac to element. If 240 vac at element replace element if 240 vac not present the thermostat,or selector switch is bad not providing the 240 vac to element

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If you have 240 VAC across the element, but the element is not heating, then you have a bad element. If you don't have 240 VAC at the element, then work your way back with the voltmeter to find where the voltage is dropping

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Drying Machine Problem


Hi..

If your dryer is not drying,

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


Regards
PCmania



Jul 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

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Dryer works but does not heat


On the back, there may be a red push button to reset. where the dryer has overheated. If the heating element is only heating on a soft dry, wollens, etc, the element needs replacing. Keep checking your lint filter after every dr, to prevent a reset situation. Hope it helps, Regards Dave.

Jul 15, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer works but will not heat up, can I replace the element myself? kenmore mod: 110 63032101 type: DDOT ELE 2406028-CV54


To answer your question, "yes", replacing a heating element is a simple repair that you should be able to perform yourself. However, the problem may/may not be the heating element. There are several things that can cause a dryer no heat problem.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. Your heating circuits are located on the lower right side of the dryer cabinet under the drum. You will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door to access. The elment is inside the heater box while the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermstat is located on the outside of the heater box to the left of the element. The TCO is located in the rear, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located near the heating element terminals. NOTE: Make sure the dryer is unplugged while taking any resistance checks. Make sure you disconnect any terminal wires before measuring to ensure accurate readings. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 13, 2009 | Dryers

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Will run but will not heat up


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer works but does not heat up.  The dryer will tumble but there is no heat coming on.


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Electric model# 110/63022100 KENMORE ELITE dryer turns on yet no heat so clothes don't dry if it's a heating coil where do i locate it or how do i get to it to get it out?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.

On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.

In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

MY drier heating element shows 9 ohms continuity, it also shows 120 volts into and out of it when the drier is running. But the heating element wont heat up?


Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.

Oct 17, 2008 | Whirlpool Dryers

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