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I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series Extra Capacity Plus Washer and it won't spin or agitate, but it does empty water out. How can it be fixed? We can't even find a diagram of it or match the model number to find a detailed diagram of it or to troubleshoot the problem. It's a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series Extra Capacity Plus model number 11092578210

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If this is a Kenmore Top Loader washing machine, it sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. The washer filling and draining, but no agitation and spin are common symptoms with this problem. There may also be a rattling or whirring sound as the drive motor attempts to engage.

NOTE: If the washer drains, the drive motor is working. This drain pump on this washer is driven by the drive motor.

The motor coupling is located between the back side of the drive motor and the gearcase (transmission). The coupling is used in place of a drive belt, which is why this type of washer is referred to as a "direct drive". The following link explains how to access and replace the motor coupling:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The part number is included with the link and can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. I have included an illustration of what the coupler looks like below.

I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series Extra - 00326241.jpg

If the motor coupling is intact upon inspection, the other source of no agitation and spin would be the gearcase. The gearcase on these washers is fairly simple to replace. If you narrow it down to a failed gearcase, the next link explains the steps for replacing one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

I could only find your model number referenced at repairclinic.com. The gearcase on their site lists for about $160 and is listed as item 423.

I could not find any exploded view diagrams of your washer, but the majority of all Kenmore and Whirlpool top loaders are designed with the same direct drive system. You can purchase a Direct-Drive Repair Manual at repairclinic.com for about $20 (Item number 1170635) if you need a guide for reference.

If you have any questions about this repair, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope I've given you enough to work with in trying to narrow down the cause of your problem.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 29, 2009

    NOTE: Click on the RED "X" and it will take you to the appropriate link for the part illustration.

  • krakerjac1 Mar 29, 2011

    THANKS! I was about to purchase another washer. All of the the other sites I visited, only referred me to replacing the belt (which I do not have) and calling a service tech. I could not find anything on "direct drive".
    Jerry (Bartlett, TN)

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

Although I couldn't find a diagram for your washer either, following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance manual for top load, direct drive neutral drain washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Since the washer will drain, the motor, lid switch and timer are probably OK.

The problem seems to point to the Motor Coupler. A three part device that is used as a fail safe to transfer motor power to the transmission.

If the coupler breaks (there are two plastic pieces that attach to the motor and transmission with three prongs each) The prongs fit into holes in a rubber coupler. If the motor or transmission jams, the prongs or rubber piece will break.

Following is a means of replacing them.

his is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.

Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Follow the instructions for removing the cabinet and pulling the pump, motor and motor mounting plate.

The coupler has two plastic pieces with three prongs each. In between is the rubber coupler with six holes.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

WITH APPOLOGIES TO AMERICAL APPLIANCE.COM, DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You only have to follow the above to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate. Not the agitators drum or transmission.


Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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