Washer will fill up but not drain pulled a sock from white piece between two black drain lines still wont drain water in spin cycle

That white piece you are referring to is your drain pump. If you have freed any obstructions from the pump, make sure you also check the drain lines to ensure they are clear.

A simple test that you can try is to remove the drain line from the standpipe at the wall and lay it on the floor to see if simple gravity works. If you have normal water flow, the lines are probably clear. If the water doesn't flow, or appears restricted, you may want to inspect the drain lines.

If the washer is located in an area that you cannot perform this procedure, you can use a wet/dry shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line to see if the water drains easily. A shop vac can also free many obstructions.

If clearing the drain line and pump don't work, you may need to replace the drain pump. The pump only has one moving part (the impeller blade), so it shouldn't be hard to determine if it bad or not. The pump is driven by the drive motor shaft on the back side. You should be able to turn the impeller if the pump is good. If you need to replace the pump, the following link epxlains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397094-replacing_water_pump

The average price of a replacement drain pump is about $35. I've mentioned several web sources you can try below.

Another cause of a washer that no longer drains is a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or if the washer fills and stops, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

If the white piece has electric wires connected to it could be the drain pump and may be burnt out because of the stuck sock check to see if voltage is present during drain cycle by using multimeter set to 120v. If voltage present then pump is bad.