Question about Maytag CWE5800A Electric Double Oven
I turned the top oven on 350 preheat and walked away. I returned to find the upper broiler on high, the display flashing F2 and beeping. I could not turn the oven off or change the setting. I switched off the breaker. When I switched the breaker back on, the oven returned to high broiler, F2 and beeping. Again, I could not turn off the oven, so I switched off the breaker once more. Several hours later I switched the breaker on, and now the oven works fine. It's been three days, and the oven seems fine. However, I am a foster parent with eight children in the home. Am I going to awaken some night to a house on fire? Thanks, email@example.com.
i would first check the lower units bake element , usually a visually inspection is enough to determine if its good or nor, usually a burn mark can be seen on the element itself, and if you can even see the element the bottom f the oven cavity will lift off for better inspection
Posted on Mar 25, 2008
SOURCE: F2,F5,F7 message
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad)* F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or bad oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
Posted on Oct 13, 2010
Even though the ignitor (glowplug) is heating up, it more than likely still needs to be replaced. They do become weak over time. An oven gas valve requires a certain amount of current moving through the coil in order to open the plunger. The he circuit goes through the ignitor, and the hotter thee ignitor gets, the more current flows through it. As the ignitor weakens, it does not allow sufficient current through the circuit to open the valve. Replace the ignitor and you'll be baking in time for Thanksgiving. Use caution when installing the ignitor, as they are extremely fragile. Also, do not touch the actual element section of the ignitor when installing it.******Remember to remove power from the range before making this repair.
Good luck, and gobble, gobble.
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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