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Check with bandsawmanuals.com if they have the manual for your band saw. You might want to try these steps. First, you need to unplug the saw and remove the band. Then remove the outside snap ring.
I am not sure but you might have to remove the self locking screw in the shaft.
Once the snap ring is removed, you should be able to remove the wheel and the outer bearing.
Then remove the back bearing from the shaft. Next, install the bearings in the reverse order.
Many band saws have a rubber 'boot' that goes around each wheel on the band saw. These become worn and need replaced. Or perhaps over time your one of your wheels may have gotten a little out of alignment. One of the wheels (sometimes both) will have a way to adjust the tilt of the wheel allow the blade to travel in the center of the wheel as it turns. Be sure you band saw is unplugged from the power source before making adjustments.
Remove the glove box assembly, lower right side instrument panel trim cover and right cowl trim panel, as required. Disconnect the blower lead wire connector.
If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, disconnect the 2 vacuum lines from the recirculating door actuator and position the actuator aside.
Fig. Fig. 1: Blower motor housing cover
Fig. Fig. 2: Blower motor and wheel assembly
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the spring-type retaining clip to separate the wheel from the blower motor
Remove the 2 screws at the top of the blower housing that secure it to the unit cover.
Remove the 5 screws from around the blower housing and separate the blower housing from the unit.
Remove the 3 screws that secure the blower assembly to the heater or air conditioning housing and remove the assembly from the unit. Remove the fan from the blower motor by removing the spring-type retaining ring from the center of the blower wheel. Note the location of the fan-to-blower motor assembly for correct installation.
Fig. Fig. 4: To gain access to the blower motor, unplug the electrical connectors from the glove box lamp, ...
Fig. Fig. 5: ... then remove the glove box assembly from the dash panel
if it is an air nailer, then its the return band or the o-ring on the piston of the driver. if the piston o-ring is worn or broken, then the air that pushes and pulls the driver just goes around the driver instead of moving it, if it is not the piston o-ring, then remove the cylinder and replace the broken return band, it is usually the bottom (sometimes wider) o-ring
Buy a tube of Household Goop, and put some on the front and back of the hole the motor shaft goes through and glue the wheel in place. Make a little 'pile' or filet around the shaft/wheel joint. Let it dry a couple of hours.Goop is extremely handy, sticks like glue should, stays flexible, is cheap, etc.
The resistor will cost you 12 dollars at your local dealership. It's located under the passenger side dash and is very easy to replace. The resistor installed at the factory is defective and the new one from Mopar is the correct resistor. It would be worth you while to replace it now while you're working on the blower motor. The blower should still work on the high setting, even with a bad resistor but, replacing the resistor may fix the problem.
Steps for allure 2/qs2 3/qs3
blade located to the left (squirrel cage)
2.remove both screws retaining metal plate underneath filters
Now you have room to remove the blade completely for washing.
The blade is only held on by pressure (no tools needed)
When re-installing, make sure the plastic lever on the blade is securely located in any hole on the motor face.
For allure 1
Blade located dead center of the hood
3.Remove blade (only held on the pressure) you may have to pull hard
4.When re-installing: make sure the flat side of the hole in the center of the blade is alined the flat side of the shaft of the motor.
Are you looking for the metal ring which goes around your blower wheel. If so, we do have it at Inventex. All it does is cut down the performance of the fan. You will also need carbon filters to absord the smell.
Unplug the dryer. Remove the two screws (Phillips) holding the door hinge to the frame. Remove the other two holding the guides on theother side. Pull the top of the front out and lift it off the clips on the bottom. Remove the brackets (5/16 in screws) (right and left) holding the top down. Notice the direction that those brackets hook into the top.
Lift the top at least a few inches and disconnect any wires you see (light and door switch.) Remember the colors of the wires, and where they go. (The connectors are also different sizes.)
Remove the four 5/16 in screws holding the ring around the basket in place. Remove the ring (with blower suction chamber) and set aside. The blower wheel will now be visible. The blower wheel is held on with a spring clip (pliers) and a snap ring (snap ring pliers). The motor shaft is D- shaped as the blower wheel also was, originally.
If you need to replace the blower wheel, the cover is held on with about eight 1/4 in screws and and one 5/16 in ***** at the bottom. Just fold the wires to the right to get that metal cover out of the way.
While you've got it apart, be sure to clean out the lint in the blower suction area.