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Hole in boat

We have a kmv 528cc 17foot boot and there is a ballast hole in the side of the boat, what is its purpose?

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Its purpose is when you stop the boat it fills with water. The boat is built light in weight to get better peformance,the bad part is that it floats like a cork when you stop.To allow these ballast tanks to fill with water when you stop,creates a stable and solid hull that reduces wave reaction.Once you take off,it all drains out.It slows initial acceleration but once drained,you get the best of both worlds.Many larger and expensive boats use this same principal to get the same result.100 ft boats may take in as much as 10000 gallons.It dulls the affect of the waves.Hope this helps

Posted on Sep 29, 2009


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Why does. My boat sit low in the water when i stop to fish it's. A1989 Cajun. Bass boat??????

As you go through water at any speed the force of the water flowing/being forced beneath it will cause it to rise in the water. When you are stationary there is no pressure applied to the hull. If your boat carries ballast removing some will mean that it displaces less water and will sit higher in the water when stationary.

Archimededs on water displacement?

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I have a JVC DLA-X9-B projector which I think is the almost the same as the X7 and X3 the manual is the same.Its about 2 years old.It stopped working suddenly while I was watching a movie. Indicator lights were both on red and lamp light flashing orange. Replaced the lamp and it did not change the status,did cleaning filter bit , did lamp reset from the remote , did reboot and plugged it at a different ac outlet all that did not work . The lens cover is stuck at opened and the only thing you get when plugged in is the red light on and after 30 seconds the lamp light comes on orange .No fan came on no moving lens cover only flashing orange light.
From this conclusion was the power supply was working and software was a question mark either it was corrupt ,but the power cycle and lamp test start was normal and it checked the lamp and reported orange .So all the more it pointed to either the ballast or the power feeding the ballast.
I opened the projector up started with the screws at the bottom removed the the adjustable screw in legs. Removed the left and the right plastic cover ,then bottom cover, lamp cover, top cover plastic and then top metal plate cover, back cover until parts were all visible ,then put back the screw in legs a placed projector in an upright position. All this was in suspect that the ballast is the problem.
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-6.jpgThis is the top view photo.
On the right black plastic cover is the lamp fan and air duct.
At the center is the lens assembly and motors for focus lens shift etc.
on the left are stacks of electronics that are stacked board on board of about 4 or 5 layers.

jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-11.jpgthis is the side view of the stacks of boards, to get to the ballast these have to be removed.NOTE LABLE ALL CABLES AFTER REMOVING THEM AS THERE ARE MANY OF THEM.Remove the side plate

Remove hdmi and land board,carefully there are connectors on bottom and all sides of this board.

jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-27.jpg jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-38.jpgthen remove the next board ,remember to lable all the cables.
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-51.jpgthen the next board bellow ,carefull this one has 2 side connectors on pictures top side
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-66.jpgthis will be what it looks like.Note the bottom most is the power supply.,This feeds the ballast as well as other low voltage Dc components.THE CONNECTOR WITH THE WHITE END AND BLACK AND RED CABELS IS THE BALLAST FEED(picture above) .The ballast is located in a black plastic box above the power supply.The only way to remove it is to continue dismantling further. jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-83.jpgthis is the top view and the yellow tags you are seeing is cable labelson the wires.

jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-102.jpgthis picture is with all boards removed to check for physical burn outs on components
mainly on power supply ballast feed and ballast itself.
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-123.jpgall boards out
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-146.jpgthis is the power supply board it has both low and high voltage output .Low for logic boards high output for ballast.Ballast feed from power supply should put out about 380 volts dc during projector boot up and zero during orange blinking light,(you can skip this removal of power supply if you read the 380 volts output on multimeter at boot up.Do this before taking all the boards apart but remove the side plate to access the output and check the output at boot up ,warning do not short this while reading output.
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-171.jpgpower board made by sumida and so is the ballast
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-198.jpgfinally the ballast is out this is what it looks like,do you see the dark grey wires they lead to the optocouplers (little led light sensing switch looks like a square little box all 3 are side by side)
jvc-dla-x3-bu-will-not-power-2-lights-zogl1yh0b34d0jvl0ocjipaz-3-227.jpg this resistor came out of the ballast ,notice physical damage like a hole in the center of it,tested it out of the board and yes its dead replaced this.
.Did all the checking one by one of the components then found one of the optocouplers had gone dead.The one located in the center of the 3 replaced that ,put it all back and got it working again.
The ballast cost 300 usd I bought one too and kept it handy just incase.
But for the meanwhile the old one is back and working just fine.

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Wow. You might be out of luck.
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Repair it. Buy some black liquid rubber. It's usually sold for electrical purposes, but can easily be found (I've seen it in Walmart's hardware section). It's in a metal can, with a brush in the lid, and gooey. If your rubber boot is split, I'd try taking it off & using the liquid rubber on the inside (for appearance's sake), maybe stretching the split so that the compound can get inside. Any excess can be cleaned up with acetone.

If you live in an area that has a lot of boating, find a boat junkyard. You might be able to find a used replacement. Alternatively, you can read or place postings on boat-friendly websites in the hopes that someone out there can help you find a replacement.

Fabricate. Improvise. Take it off, go to marine & auto and snowmobile parts stores & shops, show it to people, and someone might be able to come up with something (different manufacturer, different model). Think applications where weatherproofing is desirable (boats, airplanes, snowmobiles, ATVs, etc.)

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