Replace fuel line

To replace line you use tag wire or similar item to pull the fuel line through the tank fittings.
First you install tag wire through the tank fuel line open and out the fill hole. Then attach this tag wire to the fuel line and pull the line back through the fuel line opening. You do this for both the pickup and the return lines. Mark your return line about an inch from the end so you can install it at the proper placement. As pull this return line through the fuel line opening stop when you reach the mark. Now with both lines installed cut them to desired lengths to connect to the carburetor and the primer.
Here is a picture of how connect the tag wire to the fuel line.

I am not familiar with your brand of machine, BUT... many machines have similar fuel line setups. Here\'s what I know.



Most carburetors have built-in fuel pumps that suck fuel from the tank. As the fuel pumps generally suck more fuel than the engine needs, there is a "fuel RETURN line" from the carb back to the fuel tank, which returns the excess fuel back to the tank. There is usually nothing attached to the end of this line inside the tank.



The "other" fuel line is from the tank TO the carb, and it usually has a tiny, weighted, fuel filter attached to a long piece of fuel line INSIDE the tank. This long, flexible, floppy piece of tubing allows fuel pickup regardless of how, what position, the machine is held.



The purpose for this set-up is threefold:

1. The filter, of course, is to keep "trash" out of the fuel system and,



2. The "long" fuel line inside the tank is to allow the filter/pick-up end of the fuel line to move around in order to pick up fuel from ALL points inside the tank,and



3. The weight is to forcefully "carry" the filter/pick-up intake to the low point ["bottom"] of the tank regardless of the orientation of the machine and fuel tank!!!

On the machines that I replaced the fuel lines, to replace the suction line I had to use a longer than normal [when finished] length of line.



I first had to "fish" the filter, weight, and any nipples and or washers out of the tank.

1. I then inserted the new line into the tank from outside through the small hose opening hole.



2. To start, I put MUCH MORE [extra] line into the tank so that I could fish-out 5 or 6 inches thru the filler opening, allowing me to finish the connection of the filter, weight, nipple(s) and/or washers outside the tank where I had room to work!!!!!



3. The use of nipples with washers expands the hose enough to keep the assembly from easily falling or pulling from the tank.



4. Once all of the "in-tank" assembly was done, I then gently pulled the extra fuel line back out of the tank hole, thus pulling the weighted filter and connectors back into the tank. I left enough "loose" tubing inside the tank to allow the weighted fuel pick-up end to reach anywhere inside the tank.



5. The final step was to route the line to the suction nipple on the carb, cut the line to proper length, and attach it over the carb suction/intake nipple.

Not being familiar with your machine, I can only hope this allows you to fix your machine! Good luck!!!!!

If you have the saw I think you do, here is the deal. You have two hoses that go to the tank, one is a larger diameter than the other. The smaller diam. hose runs from the tank to the "inlet" side of the carburetor. (the fitting closest to the fuel pump cover, held on by one screw). This line rest in the bottom of the tank attached to a fuel filter. The larger diam. line attaches to the "tank" side of the primer or "outlet" side and sits in the tank about 1/4"-1/2", (there is generally a fitting on this end to prevent it from being pulled out of the hole). The third line, usually the same diam. as the fuel line, attaches to the primer "carb" fitting or "suction" side and attachs to the other fitting on the carb. The lines are best fed by cutting them at an angle on one end (approx. 2") and feed the angled end into the hole from the outside of the tank. Once you get about two inches inside the tank, reach in with a pair of needle nose and pull the hose the rest of the way. Sometimes you may need to remove the carburetor to gain access to the holes. Hope this helps.

The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two Fuel Lines, goes from the bottom of the carburetor, to the bottom of the tank. (The first line will need to be longer so that you can pull it all the way through to where you put gas in.) This so that you can easily attach the fuel filter. Then pull the Fuel Line back through the hole. Leave enough slack in this line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank. Cut off any excess line once you know that you have enough to reach the carburetor.

The other Fuel Line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank,(about a 1/2 inch). (Make sure that you get the right size fuel lines.) The plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.

(HINT): When feeding the Fuel Lines through the fuel tank holes, cut the lines at an angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.

Three Fuel Line Installation: In this installation, the primer bulb is separate from the Carburetor.

The (1st) Fuel Line will be the longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the (3) Fuel Lines. It goes from the bottom of the carburetor, to the bottom of the tank. (The first line will need to be longer so that you can pull it all the way through to where you put gas in.) This so that you can easily attach the fuel filter. Then pull the Fuel Line back through the hole. Leave enough slack in this line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank. Cut off any excess line once you know that you have enough to reach the carburetor.

The (2nd) Fuel Line goes from the top stem of the primer bulb to just inside the tank,(about a 1/2 inch). (Make sure that you get the right size fuel lines.) The plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. This will be the shortest of the three Fuel Lines.

The (3rd) Fuel Line goes from the bottom stem of the primer bulb to the top of carburetor

Removal & Installation

1. Disable the air suspension, if equipped.
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
3. Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out through the fuel filler pipe.
   

NOTE Fuel injected vehicles have reservoirs inside the fuel tank to maintain fuel near the fuel pickup during cornering and under low fuel operating conditions. These reservoirs could block siphon tubes or hoses from reaching the bottom of the fuel tank. Repeated attempts using different hose orientations can overcome this obstacle.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. If equipped with a metal retainer that fastens the filler pipe to the fuel tank, remove the screw attaching the retainer to the fuel tank flange.
   
3. Detach the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel tank sending unit. On some vehicles, these are inaccessible on top of the tank. In these cases they must be disconnected with the tank partially removed.
   
4. Place a safety support under the fuel tank and remove the bolts or nuts from the fuel tank straps. Allow the straps to swing out of the way.
   
5. Partially remove the tank and detach the fuel lines and electrical connector from the sending unit, if not detached previously.
   
6. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Raise the fuel tank into position in the vehicle. Connect the fuel lines and sending unit electrical connector if it is necessary to connect them before the tank is in the final installed position.
   
2. Lubricate the fuel filler pipe with water base tire mounting lubricant and install the tank onto the filler pipe, then bring the tank into final position. Be careful not to deform the tank.
   
3. Bring the fuel tank straps around the tank and start the retaining nut or bolt. Align the tank with the straps. If equipped, make sure the fuel tank shields are installed with the straps and are positioned correctly on the tank.
   
4. Check the hoses and wiring mounted on the tank top to make sure they are correctly routed and will not be pinched between the tank and body.
   
5. Tighten the fuel tank strap retaining nuts or bolts to 20–30 ft. lbs. (28–40 Nm).
   
6. If not already connected, connect the fuel hoses and lines which were detached. Make sure the fuel supply, fuel return, if present, and vapor vent connections are made correctly. If not already connected, connect the sending unit electrical connector.
   
7. Lower the vehicle.
   
8. Replace the fuel that was drained from the tank.
   
9. Check all connections for leaks.
   

First you should check your trunk. some newer chevy's have an access pannel uner the trunk liner inside the trunk. you remove the liner, remove the bolts and panel, and the pump is right there. it may take some effort to get it wiggled through, but trust me, it will fit. you must remove the fuel lines and wire harness first, then remove the lock ring completely before attempting to pull the pump through the access hole. if that fails then you need to drop you fuel tank to access the pump. there are instructions for removal and installation of the tank below.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the fuel tank, using a hand-operated pump device to drain as much fuel through the filler tube as possible.

Fig. View of fuel tank mounting


Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attached to the body with a bracket and retaining bolt


Fig. The fuel filler pipe is attach to the tank by a hose clamp

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Unfasten the muffler hanger bolts.
3. Remove the rubber exhaust hangers, then allow the exhaust system to rest on the rear axle.
4. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel tank sender. Grasp the filter and one nylon fuel connection line fitting. Twist the quick-connect fitting 1 / 4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Repeat for the other fitting. Using compressed air, blow out the dirt from the quick-connect fittings at the end of the fuel filter.
5. Detach the quick-connect fittings by pulling the release tabs back on the fuel line quick connector and pulling apart.
6. Disconnect the hoses at the tank from the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
7. With the help of an assistant, support the fuel tank, then disconnect the two tank retaining straps and carefully lower the tank.
8. Detach the fuel sender electrical connector.
9. Unplug the fuel pressure sensor connector.
10. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

To install:

1. If the tank is being replaced, perform the following:
   1. Remove the sound insulators.
   2. Remove the modular fuel pump/sender assembly, as outlined earlier in this section.
   3. Inspect all connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace, as required. Inspect the fuel line O-rings for cuts, nicks, swelling and/or distortion and replace as necessary.
   4. Install the fuel sender assembly to the new tank, as outlined earlier in this section.
   5. Install the sound insulators.
   
   
2. With the help of an assistant, raise the fuel tank to the vehicle and attach the fuel sender connector and, if equipped, the fuel pressure sensor connector.
3. Raise the fuel tank into position then fasten the retaining straps. Tighten the retaining bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
4. Connect the hoses to the filler, vent and vapor pipes.
5. Attach the nylon fuel feed and return connecting line quick-connect fittings to the fuel sender, as follows:
   1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube ends.
   2. Push the connectors together to cause the retaining tabs/fingers to snap into place.
   3. Once installed, pull on both ends of each connection to be sure they are secure.
   
   
6. Install the rubber exhaust hangers.
7. Install the muffler hanger bolts, then tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
8. Attach the fuel tank sender electrical connector.
9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Refill the fuel tank, then connect the negative battery cable.
11. Turn the ignition to the ON position for two seconds, then turn it to the OFF position for ten seconds. Turn again to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
2. Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out through the fuel filler pipe.
   

Fuel injected vehicles have reservoirs inside the fuel tank to maintain fuel near the fuel pick-up during cornering or low-fuel operation. These reservoirs could block siphon hoses or tubes from reaching the bottom of the fuel tank. Repeated attempts, using different hose orientations, can overcome this obstacle.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. If equipped, remove the skid plate attaching bolts, then lower the plate and remove it.
   

On Explorer/Mountaineer models, the front fuel tank strap is bolted to the skid plate and will be disconnected when the plate is removed.

1. Disconnect the fuel fill and vent hoses connecting the filler pipe to the tank.
   
2. On vehicles equipped with a metal retainer fastening the filler pipe to the fuel tank, remove the screw holding the retainer to the fuel tank flange.
   
3. Disengage the fuel lines and the electrical connections to the fuel tank sending unit/fuel pump assembly. On some vehicles, these are inaccessible on top of the tank. In this case, they must be disconnected when the tank is partially lowered.
   
4. Place a safety support (such as a floor jack) under the fuel tank and remove the bolts from the fuel tank straps. Allow the straps to swing out of the way. Be careful not to deform the fuel tank.
   

On Ranger vehicles, the rear fuel tank strap has two connections which must be unbolted.

1. Lower the tank a few inches, then detach the fuel lines and electrical connection from the sending unit/fuel pump assembly, if required.
   
2. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Before installation, it would be wise to perform the following:
   
   1. Double-check the tightness of the sending unit/fuel pump locking ring. If it is already loose, now would be a good time to remove it and check the condition of the gasket underneath.
      
   2. Ensure that all metal shields are reinstalled in their original positions and that the fasteners are secure.
      
   3. Be sure that the fuel vapor valve is completely installed on top of the fuel tank.
      
   4. Make all necessary fuel line or wiring connections which will be inaccessible after the fuel tank is installed.
      
2. Raise the fuel tank into position in the vehicle. If necessary, attach the fuel lines and sending unit electrical connector before the tank is in its final position.
   
3. Lubricate the fuel filler pipe with a water-based lubricant. Install the tank onto the filler pipe, then bring the tank into final position. Be careful not to deform the tank.
   
4. Position the tank straps around the tank and start the retaining nut or bolt. Align the tank with the straps. If equipped, be sure the fuel tank shields are installed with the straps and are positioned correctly.
   
5. Check the hoses and wiring on top of the tank. Make sure they are correctly routed and will not be pinched between the tank and body.
   
6. Tighten the fuel tank strap retaining nuts or bolts to 20-5 ft. lbs. (3-41 Nm).
   
7. If not already attached, connect the fuel hoses and lines. Make sure the fuel supply, fuel return (if present) and the vapor vent attachments are made properly. If not already attached, connect the sending unit.
   
8. If removed, install the fuel tank skid plate.
   
9. Lower the vehicle.
   
10. Fill the tank with fuel and check all connections for leaks.
    

Removal & Installation

1. Disable the air suspension, if equipped.
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable and relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
3. Siphon or pump as much fuel as possible out through the fuel filler pipe.
   

NOTE Fuel injected vehicles have reservoirs inside the fuel tank to maintain fuel near the fuel pickup during cornering and under low fuel operating conditions. These reservoirs could block siphon tubes or hoses from reaching the bottom of the fuel tank. Repeated attempts using different hose orientations can overcome this obstacle.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. If equipped with a metal retainer that fastens the filler pipe to the fuel tank, remove the screw attaching the retainer to the fuel tank flange.
   
3. Detach the fuel lines and the electrical connector to the fuel tank sending unit. On some vehicles, these are inaccessible on top of the tank. In these cases they must be disconnected with the tank partially removed.
   
4. Place a safety support under the fuel tank and remove the bolts or nuts from the fuel tank straps. Allow the straps to swing out of the way.
   
5. Partially remove the tank and detach the fuel lines and electrical connector from the sending unit, if not detached previously.
   
6. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
   

To install:

1. Raise the fuel tank into position in the vehicle. Connect the fuel lines and sending unit electrical connector if it is necessary to connect them before the tank is in the final installed position.
   
2. Lubricate the fuel filler pipe with water base tire mounting lubricant and install the tank onto the filler pipe, then bring the tank into final position. Be careful not to deform the tank.
   
3. Bring the fuel tank straps around the tank and start the retaining nut or bolt. Align the tank with the straps. If equipped, make sure the fuel tank shields are installed with the straps and are positioned correctly on the tank.
   
4. Check the hoses and wiring mounted on the tank top to make sure they are correctly routed and will not be pinched between the tank and body.
   
5. Tighten the fuel tank strap retaining nuts or bolts to 20–30 ft. lbs. (28–40 Nm).
   
6. If not already connected, connect the fuel hoses and lines which were detached. Make sure the fuel supply, fuel return, if present, and vapor vent connections are made correctly. If not already connected, connect the sending unit electrical connector.
   
7. Lower the vehicle.
   
8. Replace the fuel that was drained from the tank.
   
9. Check all connections for leaks.
   

The fuel pump and sending unit is located in the tank. I hope your tank is empty, if not you will need to siphon it out. It is dangerous with the gasoline, and remember the fumes burn, not gas. You start by removing the filler hose, then loosen straps, detach sending unit wire and fuel line, then lower tank. Then unscrew the sending unit/pump and replace. reinstall.