I replaced the sequencer for the heat side also replaced heat strip.not sure i got the wires right on the heat strip.do the black wires go on the top of the heat strip or the bottom.my heat will not get above 69
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Re: janitrol heat pump
When it reaches 69 degrees what happens? Does the unit shut off or does it continue to run only its not keeping up with the cold? As for the wires on the sequencer, I don't believe it matters where the wires are attached, as long as you have 220v running through. And it sounds like you got this right because you would have problems of other kinds if not. It sounds possible there is a temp. limit switch giving you trouble, why did you replace the sequence and heat strip in the first place? And is it so cold where you live that the regular heat pump will not work?
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I would check the fan relay and especially the sequencer. I recently came across a problem with an older sequencer which had come partially apart and allowed the thermo disk to keep the fan running continuously. The sequencer controls not only the fan relay (24 volt), but the heating strips(220 volt) as well. Make sure all power is off to the unit and verify. Make a wiring diagram and take several pictures if necessary. Replace sequencer with only an Identical unit, even if you have to order it. The newer sequencers have two metal straps to prevent this problem from occurring.
Heat pumps require a reversing valve for heat operation on the outdoor section, a control signal to a "O" terminal or orange wire is required for heating and cooling depending on the thermostat and out door unit requirements. The thermostat also has to be heat pump type for the system to operate heat for electric system with heat strip, two stage electric heating.
Sounds like a bad sequencer (the thing you unplugged the wire from probalbly). It will have 24vac supplied to the heating element in the sequencer and most likely 240vac being passed by the sequencer to the heat strips. This parts are not very expensive and can be purchased at a heating and air supply or a mobile home supply company. You can turn off the power and use an ohmmeter to figure out which one is bad. There may be only one or there may be 2 or 3. Let me know what you find.
Most heat pumps have an auxillary heat. Many are electric auxillary heat with a heat strip in the air handler. A common malfunction is for the electric auxillary heat to operate when the heat pump is set on cool. To confirm this, locate the conductor that runs from the heat sequencer to the connection on the heat strip. You will see this on the top section of the air handler. Use the clamp on part of the amp meter over that wire. If the thermostat is set on cool and the heat strip is drawing amps, it means the heat is coming on while the heat pump is set on cool. There is usually one or two causes for this, either the sequencer is bad or there is low voltage wires usually behind the thermostat or in the air handler closet that are touching that shouldn't be touching.
If this is not the case, if its not a problem of where the heat is coming on with the air conditioner, it could be a case of the reversing valve malfunctioning. The way a heat pump works is it reverses the flow of the refridgerant. For instance, many heat pumps the reversing valve is activated in cool. That would mean that there is a low voltage circuit that activates the reversing valve when the heat pump is in cool. I'm not sure what model/brand your heat pump is, Goodman and Janitrol for instance, the heat pump reversing valve is activated in cool. In any case, if the reversing valve is not operating properly, when the air conditioning is set to cool it will actually be heating. Or you could set it to heat and it may actually be cooling instead of heating. Please check these two items first and if you have any further questions, please let me know. Especially if you know of any additional problems like the evaporater is icing up or if the air handler fan is not operating when it should.
Check to see if you have the system switch accidently on em. heat. The way you have it wired is correct except for the having brown on e. disconnect brown wire and cut ofbare end just in case they have the wire hooked up for constant run on roof.
Your white wire is controlling the heat for your strips. while the blue is for the heat pump side of heat. But if you disconnect the white be sure to wrap tape around it so it doesn't contact any other wire. Would cause a short and you would loose a transformer.
There should be electric heat strips in the airhandler.
They automatically come on when the unit goes into defrost, the thermostat is turned up more than 7 degrees over the indoor temp or if the outdoor temp is just so cold the HP cannot keep up.
Tat is your auxillary or emergency heat.
What does the new t-stats installers booklet say that the 0170 function and #2 #7 options are for?
If it is for gas vs elec heat then set it on the elec option.
The difference is that in gas heat systems the blower comes on a few min AFTER the furnace fires up to allow the heat exchanger to get hot.
In an electric furnace the blower has to come on emediatly because the heat strips get hot emediatly and if the blower is delayed the system will shut of in high temp overload.
you need to know if the heat strips are energized by a contactor or relay as opposed to a heat sequencer. as a general rule the contactor or relay clicks shut as soon as a call for heat is made and the fan is energized by the stat at the same time . instant heat strips and instant fan. if the heat strips have a sequencer it may take up to 90 seconds or so before the sequencer heats up then clicks and puts power to the strips and the fan motor at the same time. the high voltage usually feeds from the strip side of the sequencer through the normally closed side of the fan relay. if you changed the stat and didn't switch the fan setting switch to elec, the fan will not be energized by the stat. if it is in the gas position, you have told it that the sequencer is bringing on the fan and of course it won' t if you don't have a sequencer.. this is tough stuff to trace even for an experienced pro cause its interconnected so dual fan speeds can't be energized at the same time. most likely you have a new digital stat that was not programmed correctly to bring fan on in heat. good luck
need to know if its a heat pump or electric strip heat. if its a heat pump then compressor and outdoor fan will run on call for heat. being an intertherm and most of them are electric strips, i'll guess. the call for heat sends 24 volts to the heat sequencer. lots of wires connected to what is called a stack switch. wires closest to the mounting plate are 24 volts and when energized they heat up a bimetal disc that clicks on in 90 to 160 second s and energizes the first strip and fan and a few seconds later the 2nd and 3rd strips kick in. for every strip operating you pull about 20 amps. if fan is working then the other parts of the sequencer are failing to close and put power to the strips or the strips themselves are bad. these are very very confusing and tricky to work with. i have to work on them hot to observe where the problem lies. very dangerous as you are going to have to trip a 90 amp breaker if you make a mistake , not to mention the parts are not available except through wholesale only supply house. i feel pretty confident the sequencer is going to be bad and i think its probably best you call a pro to get this one squared away. sometimes when you are tinkering with old sequencers they literally crumble apart in front of you, they can get that brittle. it can be quite an adventure and not for the faint of heart when its hot. good luck.