I replaced the sequencer for the heat side also replaced heat strip.not sure i got the wires right on the heat strip.do the black wires go on the top of the heat strip or the bottom.my heat will not get above 69
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Re: janitrol heat pump
When it reaches 69 degrees what happens? Does the unit shut off or does it continue to run only its not keeping up with the cold? As for the wires on the sequencer, I don't believe it matters where the wires are attached, as long as you have 220v running through. And it sounds like you got this right because you would have problems of other kinds if not. It sounds possible there is a temp. limit switch giving you trouble, why did you replace the sequence and heat strip in the first place? And is it so cold where you live that the regular heat pump will not work?
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I would check the fan relay and especially the sequencer. I recently came across a problem with an older sequencer which had come partially apart and allowed the thermo disk to keep the fan running continuously. The sequencer controls not only the fan relay (24 volt), but the heating strips(220 volt) as well. Make sure all power is off to the unit and verify. Make a wiring diagram and take several pictures if necessary. Replace sequencer with only an Identical unit, even if you have to order it. The newer sequencers have two metal straps to prevent this problem from occurring.
Hi, first of all you need to get a hand full of 5 amp auto type fuses and install one on the hot leg of the 24 volt secondary side of the transformer. Just use 2 female crimp on connectors and put the fuse in the middle of the hot wire. Saves $$$$ on replacing transformers when you have a dead short on the low or high voltage side of any transformer, just a trick of the trade, food for thought. Fuses are much cheaper. On your electric unit, you may not need the common on this to operate the digital stat if it has batteries. This may be your dead short. On the Janitrol condenser, the red is your 24v as you no. They are using blue in place of yellow for cooling. Red is hot, W is heat, G for fan, and blue is cooling on this Janitrol. Keep in mind you are connecting to a heat-pump also, so make sure the wiring is correct. Are you installing this for secondary Heat?? More then likely, the blue common you have added is the dead short as the janitrol uses the blue for a cooling relay in place of yellow. Anyway, use the 5 amp fuse, trick of the trade to save on the transformers. Please keep me posted, as I know know you have this under control. Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor. Good Luck!
Probably a bad limit switch on the strips or the heat sequencer/relay is falling out after continued amp draw. I would lean toward the heat relay/sequencer. Havent heard of any problems with coleman limit switches. These units were prone to get water inthe electrical compartments due to the evap coil being right above it. Check to see where the power break is starting at the strips and working backwards throught the circuit. That will tell you for sure. Make sure you have 24v going to the heat sequencer too.
Most heat pumps have an auxillary heat. Many are electric auxillary heat with a heat strip in the air handler. A common malfunction is for the electric auxillary heat to operate when the heat pump is set on cool. To confirm this, locate the conductor that runs from the heat sequencer to the connection on the heat strip. You will see this on the top section of the air handler. Use the clamp on part of the amp meter over that wire. If the thermostat is set on cool and the heat strip is drawing amps, it means the heat is coming on while the heat pump is set on cool. There is usually one or two causes for this, either the sequencer is bad or there is low voltage wires usually behind the thermostat or in the air handler closet that are touching that shouldn't be touching.
If this is not the case, if its not a problem of where the heat is coming on with the air conditioner, it could be a case of the reversing valve malfunctioning. The way a heat pump works is it reverses the flow of the refridgerant. For instance, many heat pumps the reversing valve is activated in cool. That would mean that there is a low voltage circuit that activates the reversing valve when the heat pump is in cool. I'm not sure what model/brand your heat pump is, Goodman and Janitrol for instance, the heat pump reversing valve is activated in cool. In any case, if the reversing valve is not operating properly, when the air conditioning is set to cool it will actually be heating. Or you could set it to heat and it may actually be cooling instead of heating. Please check these two items first and if you have any further questions, please let me know. Especially if you know of any additional problems like the evaporater is icing up or if the air handler fan is not operating when it should.
You have the wrong therm. This one will not work, you need one that works with all 7 wires. You probably have a heat pump or aux heat. The only hunter that will work is the one for a heat pump. The back of the packages will tell you more info.
Check to see if you have the system switch accidently on em. heat. The way you have it wired is correct except for the having brown on e. disconnect brown wire and cut ofbare end just in case they have the wire hooked up for constant run on roof.
There should be electric heat strips in the airhandler.
They automatically come on when the unit goes into defrost, the thermostat is turned up more than 7 degrees over the indoor temp or if the outdoor temp is just so cold the HP cannot keep up.
Tat is your auxillary or emergency heat.
What does the new t-stats installers booklet say that the 0170 function and #2 #7 options are for?
If it is for gas vs elec heat then set it on the elec option.
The difference is that in gas heat systems the blower comes on a few min AFTER the furnace fires up to allow the heat exchanger to get hot.
In an electric furnace the blower has to come on emediatly because the heat strips get hot emediatly and if the blower is delayed the system will shut of in high temp overload.
need to know if its a heat pump or electric strip heat. if its a heat pump then compressor and outdoor fan will run on call for heat. being an intertherm and most of them are electric strips, i'll guess. the call for heat sends 24 volts to the heat sequencer. lots of wires connected to what is called a stack switch. wires closest to the mounting plate are 24 volts and when energized they heat up a bimetal disc that clicks on in 90 to 160 second s and energizes the first strip and fan and a few seconds later the 2nd and 3rd strips kick in. for every strip operating you pull about 20 amps. if fan is working then the other parts of the sequencer are failing to close and put power to the strips or the strips themselves are bad. these are very very confusing and tricky to work with. i have to work on them hot to observe where the problem lies. very dangerous as you are going to have to trip a 90 amp breaker if you make a mistake , not to mention the parts are not available except through wholesale only supply house. i feel pretty confident the sequencer is going to be bad and i think its probably best you call a pro to get this one squared away. sometimes when you are tinkering with old sequencers they literally crumble apart in front of you, they can get that brittle. it can be quite an adventure and not for the faint of heart when its hot. good luck.