Question about Craftsman 10" Table Saw

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Failed electric motor on 10" Craftsman Table Saw

I have the same problem. I tried to rip a pressure treated 2x10 at a 45 deg. angle and the motor siezed! I ran it slowly, but that didn't help. I tried finding a local electric motor shop that could rebuild it, but everyone told me it would cost more than the $140 that Sears wants for a replacement motor. FYI, if you replace the table saw with a more expensive model, that has a belt drive motor, it probably will last much longer and a local electric shop is sure to have an inexpensive replacement.

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By seized is it burnt up or are the bearings just bad, the bearings are minimal but the field/armature would be more. Give me the model number and I will try and find a breakdown and let me know what we are looking for and I will try and help.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks Rowdy, The motor model is RM871. The table saw is 137.248481. It actually hasn't seized, it still turns very slowly, but makes a terrible noise"

  • David Ford
    David Ford Oct 02, 2009

    That noise I would think is a bearing locking up or seized already. If you can get the motor assembly out you might be able to match up the bearings with new ones. All bearings have a mfr number stamped in them, I would try that first, It can't hurt but if you noticed a burning smell the electrical portion is fried and then you need a motor. Let me know and I will try and help all I can. I looked at the breakdown and they don't show replacement parts for the motor, BUT most tool shops can probably help you.

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I had similar problem-piece of plastic came loose in the housing and jammed into the armature!

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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Same problem with my sears craftsman model No. 137.248880. Replaced the brush set. Motor started but makes alot of noise until it gets on speed. Will try replacing the bearings and clean the armature. I should have bought the bigger table saw. This saw is OK for small jobs, but not for what we do. Ripping 2x4s into 4 pieces and cutting long 45' cuts. Foxx

Posted on May 10, 2010

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1 Answer

Saw starts the cuts out


Check the thermal overload device,

Check the end cap of the motor to see if you can see some indication of melting of the end cap- if so, the bearing failed.

It is also possible the motor has a few open windings- does it run slower than usual, less power, and a great deal of sparks on the motor brushes? If so this is an indicator of motors that need attention.

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I was recently given and older Craftsman 10" table sawa. It worked great for cuttin some 2x4 and now all of a sudden it will only cut part way7 and than stops, and it smokes--Help!!


The problem could be one of the following:
1) dull blade, in which case replace with a carbide-toothed blade
2) underpowered or old/faulty electric motor
3) faulty/worn belt, in which case replace with new belt
4) The pulley on either the motor or the saw arbor (where the pulley attaches underneath the saw near blade) could be loose. Tighten down set screw.
5) The saw fence isn't set straight causing the wood to jam as you push it into the blade. Check this with a framing square and readjust so it is at a 90-degree angle to the front of the saw table.

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Wait for the motor to cool then try again..... you may use compress air to blow across the motor to speed the process.

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Go to searspartsdirect.com and put in your model number. Look at the motor and wiring section. Look at item 16. The motor overload protector. (probably your reset button) WIth saw unplugged, unwire one sid of this switch and test with an ohm meter. You should read through the switch. If it is open then that's why the saw doesn't work. Many of this type of oveload requires quite a push to reset as you're flexing a klixon disc back to make contact. If is open and you can't reset, it's available there although a bit high priced.

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Your adjustment should be done on the rip fence which will align it to the blade for strait non binding cuts.

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Sears has a site for parts and owner manuals at www.ManageMyHome.com.
It could be something is just loose and out of adjustment so that the teeth were able to slip on the gear. But I've never had a look at one of those to say for sure...oil always helps these things move easier...

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