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How do I change my brake levers without taking off the rubber hand grip?

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Only with certain brands of hydraulic brakes would you be able to do that. i am sorry, but if you have standard cable brakes or non split-bracketed hydros, you have to remove your grips.

i hope this helps,
matthew

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

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1 Answer

HOW DO YOU put new boot back on ryobi reciprocating saw?


No. You spin it onto the tool clockwise. When you get far enough on, the lever will slip right into the slot.

I like to take my shoe off, and use my foot to hold the hand grip while sitting down. This allows me to use both hands to twist the rubber grip off/on.

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How do i replace grips on 2009 electra glide ultra classic


For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Sep 20, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Tighten loose front grip on harley


Sorry but I do not understand your question, what year and model Harley do you have?

What do you mean by front brake grip as there is a front brake lever and a hand grip on the right handlebar. I do not see how the wind could blow the brake lever back as you would be going forward and the wind would blow the lever back which is the direction it would go to release the brake switch. If the hand grip is loose the whole control bracket and switch assembly would have to be very loose to cause such a symptom but anyway with more of a clear description of your problem someone may be able to help you figure out a fix for whatever is wrong.

Aug 19, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

How can you tell if you need a master cylinder rebuild on a 2004 suzuki 750.. Because my front brake goes out after I bleed them but it takes couple of weeks... I've bled them 3 times and I've had...


Hi, my thoughts are directed more towards the calipers, pads, or even a worn or warped disc, if you still have the rubber brake lines fitted, when you have a reduced brake effort, clamp your brake line as close to the master cylinder as poss with a pipe clamp or a pair of smooth jaw. Grips. If your mastercylinder is faulty the feel in the lever will remain the same with or without the clamped lines, if the feel of the lever is verry firm with no travel the mastercylinder is holding pressure, you can then try moving the clamp further down the line, rechecking the feel at the lever at different points

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My front brakes feel spongy when I squeeze it. The brake handle almost touches the hand grip. Does this mean I need new brakes or that I may have a leak somewhere?


It means there is air in the brake line. If the fluid gets too low in the brake cylinder air gets pumped into the system when the brake is applied. A loose fitting or bad seal is usually why the fluid gets low. Fix the leak then add fluid and bleed the system of air. First bleed the master cylinder at the lever. There should be a bleeder valve on the cylinder. Put a clear rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve. Run the hose into a container so the brake fluid doesn't get on paint or plastic parts. The fluid can mess up the finish. Now squeeze the brake lever several times in rapid succession then hold the lever in without releasing it. Open the bleeder valve slowly and fluid and air bubbles will come out of the valve. Close the valve BEFORE releasing the lever. Do the same thing multiple times until only fluid comes out of the valve. Do not let the cylinder run out of fluid while bleeding. If it does, you have to start all over again.
Now do the same procedure on the wheel caliper.
Understand that the master cylinder and / or the wheel caliper may need new seals. Please rate my answer. Thanks! tombones49_9.gif

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1997 Ford contour rear brake shoe replacment help.


Brake shoe removel:

Depress and turn the retainers for the hold-down springs and pins to remove them from each shoe. Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.

Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.

Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.

Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xgUqun
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xdByQ8

  • Step 2 Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xVyUAt

  • Step 2 Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
  • Step 3 Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
  • Step 4 Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
  • Step 5 Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring washer.

  • Read more: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1997 Ford Taurus | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6123373_change-brakes-1997-ford-taurus.html#ixzz0u2xVyUAt

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    The rubber grip on the throttle side of the handlebar usually is glued on and has to be cut off. Other than that, the throttle itself is held in place by the brake lever clamp. If you get into that area, be careful, you may break off the brake light plunger from it's actuator. I don't feel comfortable telling you to go any further than just removing the rubber sleeve.

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    Your nipple button under your hand grip is not disengageing when you release brake grip. The switch is staying in instead of popping back out. Spray some wd-40 in their. Its between the brake perch and the brake lever.

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    U will need to remove the hand brake.

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