Question about Amana ARB1917CSR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Defrost not working

Defrost not workin. heater coil has continuity

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  • Amana Master
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Since you've determined the heater is good, check the following items: Defrost timer in fresh food compartment (may not be advancing or the contacts may not be changing from open to close or vice versa), defrost terminator secured to the evaporator (may not sense a rising temperature)

Exploded parts diagram for your fridge:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5167592


Generic service manual for Amana bottom mount freezer / fridges:

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/S120_0R0.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/T120_0R0.pdf
I hope this helps!

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Coils freeze up and fridge runs all the time till I melt coils.


There might be a few causes

Door Seal might be defective causing the door not to shut tightly this causes air from the room to get into the freezer through the opening and as the air comes in contact with the evaporator coils, it freezes. Normally the defrost system removes the ice but if the seal is defective the coils freeze too quickly and the defrost system cant keep up

If the freezer evaporator coils ice over, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the evaporator coils ice over and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling to the freezer. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

Jun 03, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fixya manuals


It doesn't defrost
  1. Defrost control board
If the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  1. Defrost timer
If the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  1. Defrost heater assembly
If your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  1. Defrost sensor with fuse
Another possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.
Defrost drain problems
  1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
If you are experiencing defrost drain issues, it is possibly due to a clogged or freezing drain that is blocking water flow to the bottom of the freezer. This will cause the defrost water to drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer section. To correct this issue, thaw any ice or remove debris that could be causing the clogged drain or replace the drain heater.
  1. Drain heater
If you are experiencing defrost drain problems, inspect the defrost drain heater. A dislocated or burnt out drain heater will result in the drain tube freezing over. Attempt to return the part to the designated position or replace the damaged part to correct the issue. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Sep 06, 2014 | GE Monogram ZIRS36NM 36'' Stainless All...

1 Answer

Bottom freezer door causing ice buildup


If the refrigerator is not defrosting the defrost heater assembly might be burned out. Several times a day the defrost heater assembly turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator coils. If it fails, frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling. The defrost heater can be checked for continuity. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
Next chance is the defrost thermostat might be defective. This signals that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater and create the same problem you mentioned. It can be tested for continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.
You may also have a bad main control board that tells everything to work when it is supposed to such as telling the defrost heaters to activate or interpret the thermostat message that it is time to defrost.

Good luck!

Jun 12, 2014 | GE Profile Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator...

1 Answer

Neff integrated fridge freezer


test this steps and fix it, use the VOM. God bless you

  1. Defrost control boardIf the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  2. Main control boardA possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  3. Defrost timerIf the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  4. Defrost heater assemblyIf your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  5. Defrost thermostatAnother cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  6. Defrost sensor with fuseAnother possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/refrigerator-repair-help.html#9#ixzz2aX5nUL00
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 30, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer iced up on my 55602400


What can you do about this. so you get an understanding of what is going on here is a short explaination of how the defrost works in the freezer section behind the freezer panel.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold".The fan blows the cold air from the freezer into the fridgerator side. They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode.When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool the defrost cycle is made up of 4 functioning parts the defrost timer, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat and the fan .I will go through what each of these do
The Defrost timer Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type located on the inside upper ceiling of your frigerator works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. Some models dont have a defrost timer and instead use a control board that works just like the timer it is usually located in the rear of the machine under a metal panel.
Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes long.
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils. A continuity test can be done ona the defrost heater and when there are only the two wires and there is no connection point to do the test i always like to keep two sewing needles that i use for this test. Simply thread each needle through the half of the wire not all the way though to the other side and you can use them to perform your test to assure that there is continuity in the thermostat if there is not then replace the thermostat
Defrost Heater
Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils,older ones are just a curved piece of metal that wraps under the condensor. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost.A continuity test can also be performed to assure that the heater is functioning properly as well. Simply go to each side of the heater and do your continuity test
The Fan
Some dont consider this to be part of the defrost cycle but if the fan is not working then the air is trapped inside the freezer and sometimes can cause the same ice up situation which is why I say to always look at the fan first
you can also do an ohms test between terminal 1 and 3 on your defrost timer which will tell if the motor section of the timer is good then you can check between terminals 1 and 4 to by doing a continiuity test which is to the compressor and tells the compressor how long to run if you turn the timer till you hear the click it goes into position to and you can do a continuity test on the heater between terminals 1 and 2 and then you can do a continuty test on these two terminals as well And here is a guide to how your freezer defrosts and some ways to test each piece to assure that they are working in proper order
please remember to rank how this opinion has helped and if you have any further questions message me back Thanks Rick

Feb 11, 2011 | Kenmore 55609 / 55602 / 55604 / 55606 Side...

1 Answer

Mtb1953he fridge not cooling before it stopped fridge was making loud popping noise, i unplugged it then plugged it back in a day later to unthaw and fridge worked for 2 weeks now not working again. there...


It sounds like your defrost circuit is having a problem. Once frost builds up on the coil in the freezer compartment, air can no longer be pulled though the fins and circulated into the fresh food compartment. You notice things start to warm up. Eventually, the freezer suffers from the same lack of circulation and contents begin to soften and melt.

The defrost circuit consists of 4 main parts. They are: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator or sensor in series with the heater, 3) defrost timer and 4) wiring between the previous 3 parts.

The defrost heater is found in the compartment that houses the coiling coil. The defrost terminator or sensor is clipped or otherwise secured to be kept in physical contact with the cooling coil itself. The defrost timer may be located anywhere the manufacturer decides - a popular spot is in the toe space on the bottom of the fridge. The wiring, well, that is between all the parts. Chances are the wiring is fine - as would be the connectors to the individual components.

The defrost timer runs about 8 hours. About 20 - 30 minutes in that 8 hour period the defrost switch operates. This consists of switching power away from the compressor (so it shuts off) and to the defrost heater and defrost terminator. The heater is just a relatively small value heater that warms the compartment to melt any frost or ice from the cooling coil fins. It will be powered for up to 20 - 30 minutes by the timer or less - if the defrost terminator senses a rising temperature on the coil. This means that the heater will be on for either 20 - 30 minute OR until the defrost terminator gets warm enough.

If the timer is stuck - and never moves to the 20 - 30 defrost cycle, the frost on the coil will never melt away. If the timer does work, but the heating element has failed, the frost will never melt away. If the defrost terminator has failed open (preventing the power from getting to the heater), the will not work to melt the frost off the coil. If there is a loose, missing or damaged connection between the wiring harness and these components, it won't run as expected either.

Make sure there is continuity through the heater. When cold (below freezing) the terminator should also have continuity. Many are designed to open around 50 degrees F - so if you warm it up, you should see the continuity go away. The timer needs power to run, and will send power to either the compressor or defrost heater - never both at the same time. Check with power disconnected. Use care checking live circuits - and only work live circuits when you need to check for presence of power - otherwise, unplug!

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

Jan 05, 2011 | Maytag MTB1953HE Top Freezer Refrigerator

3 Answers

Failed defrosting all freezer lights on


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.



you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good.


Part 501a is your main control.

Apr 03, 2010 | LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Defrost not working


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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Jan 03, 2010 | Jenn-Air JCD2389G Side by Side...

1 Answer

My 3 year old bottom frezer samsung fridge stoped defrosting automatically.Ice builds up in vents till stops cooling.After unpluging and defrosting for 24 hrs manually,works good for 2-3mnths.Cant find...


3 things defrost heater, defrost timer or defrost limit thermostat.
You can pull the cover inside the freezer exposing the evaporator coils,
look for the defrost heater at the bottom of the coils. Test for continuity.
Find the defrost limit thermostat, a 2" metal disc attached to the evap coil usually on the side towards the top has two wires going in and will have continuity only when it is cold. If those are good probably the defrost timer.

Nov 04, 2009 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Need photo of Defrost Switch or Sensor


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Unit needs to be cold when you test. it closes at around 20 or 30 degrees F and opens around 55 deg F

Jul 02, 2009 | Viking Professional VCBB363SS Stainless...

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