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Work expert,washer.left pump running,smell of burning,problem no pressure,water flow ok,look down outlet hole can see hard grease,must have overheated,please can you advise,thanks.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: Karcher pressure washer won't start

Dear ralph_birtwi,
Most pressure washers when their gun is released, the machine stops automaticaly. This is done ny means of a control valve. When the gun is closed...pressure is built and the control valve moves and switches a micro switch off. In your case the micro switch is still closed in off position. Now this happens if a machine is left and stored with pressure in it., This control valve could get jammed and leaving the micro switch in off position. It could also stay in off position by sticking, due to incorrect chemical.
So the control valve or even called spill valve, must be renewed.
Sometimes a little lubrication with the right type of silicon grease will get the control valve working again. This job is sometimes delicate and better done by a qualified technician.
Regards,
fulltech.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: pressure washer not working

OK here is the solution. There are six plastic vaules inside the pump if you have any mechanical skills you can fix this.
These plastic valves melt when you leave your pressure washer running for a short period when you are not pressure washing. once this happens the pump becomes cloged and does not function. I spent alot of time and research on finding the parts for replacement. I called the main company of this washer pump and here is the toll free number
800-999-2245 and the web sight www.pressureparts.com but to save time just call and talk to the service tech tell him you model number and he will give you the part number.
I only paid $13.75 plus shipping around $5.50 I do not work or have any intrest in this comapny but I tell you after all the frustration and run around I had trying to fix this Home depot power washer I deesided to help eveyone else out
I can be reached at atidavid@aol.com if you have any other questions

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

  • 1383 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer does not spray consistent flow of pressure

Pressure washers have a pressure regulator/unloader that bypasses the water back into the intake when you let go of the trigger with motor running. If you let the machine run for long preiods in bypass the system could be damaged due to heating of the water being bypassed. The water is in a closed loop. The as the unloader wears it will tend to want to bypass which is what is happening in your case. Dirt trapped at the tip will cause this also. Install clean tip to solve problem. If clean tip did not help then try lowering the pressure by turning pressure regulator counterclock wise. If problem is gone then parts are failing but keep using pump. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: I have a honda 2600 pressure washer. After

This is a symptom caused by a sticking Unloader valve. The Unloader valve is inside the pump outlet body under the large black knob.
Example picture : http://www.msservice.net/product_spotlight.html

Before doing any dis-assembly try this procedure first. This may sound weird but it often works. We do this with a short piece of garden hose,,,,, Add 3 to 4 ounces of engine oil into the water inlet by pouring the oil into and old short / cut off garden hose with the end elevated but connected to the pump inlet.
Slowly pull the engine starter cord so as to pump the added oil into the pump and let it sit over night. Just keep pulling the starter cord "IGNITION OFF" until you note oil exiting the high the high pressure hose connection.
Then connect everything like you normally would the next day.
MAKE sure to purge the water supply hose of air at the pump connection before starting the engine.
Start the engine. NOTING that your going to shoot out the oil you put in the day before..... Pull the wand trigger every 3 to 4 seconds so you cause the Unloader / thermal relief valve to stroke within the pump body. Don't give up... you have to do this for an extended period of time so that you have HIGH pressure each time you pull the wand trigger.
With the engine still running.... let it run trigger off for about 1 minute at mid engine speed. Pull the trigger again and see if you have high pressure. Do another long pause... then use as you normally would.

IF the above lubrication process does not work....
The Unloader / thermal relief valve needs to be dis-assembled so that the springs and seals can be lubricated with Lubriplate #105 white grease. Make sure to also lubricate the casing of the pump body before putting everything back into the pump body.
Here is the white grease tube your looking for at any automotive parts supply.
http://www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-105-motor-assembly-grease.html

This should get you going again. Just note that Unloader valves will notoriously stick after end of season storage upon the next use. It is important after an extended non-use period that the wand trigger is cycled every 3 - 4 seconds to exercise the Unloader valve springs and seals in the pump body. You only need to do this for about 45 seconds.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Jan 18, 2011

spraydoctor
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer, john deere 3000 psi, honda engine

It sounds like your intake is plugged with debris. What usually happens is a water hose that has been laying around will get various stuff in it -- dirt, grass clippings, small insects (and whatever they take into it nest building). These days most homeowner pressure washers do not have a proper inlet filter, but just a screened hose washer like on a washing machine. The unloader valve can cause pressure variance, but usually not in the manner that you described. The pump is being "starved" for input water. Just use a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull out the screen and clean it or replace it.

Posted on Feb 21, 2012

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Remove Items 122 (Un;loader) and 138 (Thermail relief). Clean them up as best you can with a nylon brush under some slow running water. Dis-assemble the unloader valve completly to clean (both ends). Then lubrcate them with White Grease and reinstall both parts AFTER placing White grease in the cavity the valves mount into. Very briefly... Test water flow with the engine not running Then start the unit with water off and let run 30 seconds. Turn off engine. Turn ON water supply and test water flow engine OFF. Note you will get a certain amount of white grease initially that passes through the unit. Start unit and rapidly actuate the trigger 1/2 second on 1/2 second off multiple times to force the unloader valve to cycle.

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There is water squirting out of a hole next the pressure hose connection. Is there a missing screw? Or an adjustment to the washer that can be made. There is no pressure because of this leak.


If this hole has threads then it might be the soap inlet. If water is shooting out under pressure you may have an obstruction in the hose/handle. Try removing the hose and running the washer and see if the water flows out the connection. If the hose ends up being the problem a visual inspection and cleaning of all inlets and the handle should clear it.

If the water coming out of the hole is low/tap line pressure then I think your bypass *(or unloader) valve is stuck in the bypass position.

A stuck unloader just needs to be unstuck and lightly cleaned. A light coating of silicon grease wouldnt hurt either!

Get the manual for this pump and see how to open/remove the unloader valve.


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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
First off without a model number this is a GENERIC response. There is a knob on the output line of the pump that adjusts the output pressure. This is called the un-loader / bypass valve. Underneath the knob there is usually a knurled locking nut that prevents the knob from rotating during use. This valve gets stuck from either debris or corrosion. Remove the valve and clean up the inside of the housing along with the spring and the seals of the valve stem. A tightly rolled but shorter piece of 150 or above grit sand paper works good for this as you rotate the sandpaper in the hole to clean the corrosion out the housing. Use an air or water hose to flush out the sand paper debris before re-assembly. BEFORE you slide the stem back in place... Lubricate everything with some #105 WHITE GREASE. (Small tubes are available at any automotive parts supply.) After a very liberal lubrication of the housing springs and seals with WHITE GREASE, re-insert / install the un-loader bypass valve. Do not forget to lock the nut on the bottom of the knob so that it does not come off during use.

NOTE: If you have a smaller unit that does not have a visible un-loader / bypass valve it will be located just before the pressure hose connection on the output side of the pump housing under a fairly large screw in cap.

Before you test the unit pour at least 2 oz. of engine oil into the water connection knowing full well that when you test the unit your going to get some oil and white grease out of the unit.

Connect up the hoses and give it a full test. This usually brings them back to life.
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Kelly

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